Old topic, new thread - SWG generating light on while pump off

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Steve Bee

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Bronze Supporter
May 22, 2018
109
Ontario Canada
So I've read through searching on here and am still a little unsure.


My SWG or pump is not on a timer of any sort yet, and I have been just leaving the SWG on auto. Last night I had the controller box door open at the same time as turning the pump off I noticed the generating light staying on after the pump was on. The "No Flow" light also did not come on, but I didn't wait too long before just shutting the unit off.

I have read that the SWG should be in the same timer line as the pump as that is the safest way, so I will rig that up once I get a timer.

Does it take a while to register "No Flow"? If so, how long should I wait so I can troubleshoot safely?
If the volts/amps reading is 0 is it actually safe to leave on?
The generating light might stay on if it's still in it's "cycle"?

I am manually turning my pump on and off now, so no biggie to flick another switch, but I guess I might have a bad flow switch? (the cell is brand new!)

Thanks.
 
All SWG’s use a flow switch. I have the Circupool SI model, the no flow indicator comes on within a very few seconds of shutting down my filter pump. Your switch may be stuck in the flowing position. Look for a PVC Tee in line with your cell. The “leg” of the tee is about an 1” in diameter. The flow switch looks looks like a black pipe plug with a wire, that goes to your control panel, coming from it. There will be either an arrow or bump on one side of the wrench portion of the switch. That indicates the direction the switch must be in when installed in relation to the water flow. Make note of where this indicator is in relation to the pipe. To check the switch, unplug the wire from the control panel and unscrew the switch from the tee. The switch looks like a duck bill. With no flow the “bill” will be open. The bill closes when flow is present. If it is open when you remove it, you can check operation be gently squeezing it closed then releasing it. You should be able to hear a soft click when it closes and opens. If it is closed when you remove it, or sticks closed when you when you test it, you will need to replace it. It cannot be repaired unless something happens to be stuck to it. The cost for mine $79 for a new switch plus shipping.

To reinstall, put 6 wraps of Teflon tape or pipe dope one the threads then gently tighten (do not hulk out or you will be sorry) it until the flow direction indicator is in the position you previously noted. Plug the wire back into the control unit and you should be good to go. If the no flow indicator still does not come on, you have a problem with the control panel and you will have to return everything for repair.

On final thing, if you call the manufacture or seller about the warrantee, they may require you to send your entire system to them for testing. Get ready for sticker shock. It cost me almost $60 for me to send my unit in for testing. Then I had to pay for shipping back to my house.
 
This system is designed for an above ground pool and must be installed per instructions. It doesn't require a flow switch since there is no way gas can build up in the plumbing if you follow their instructions.

At least nobody peed in the pool.
 
Not sure why the heater's flow switch is going to be relied on if the SWG and pump are on the same timer. If the pump and SWG turn on and off at the same time you are good to go as far as the SWG is concerned.
 

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