Old Hayward or newer CircuPool

[dcaton]

I installed a CircuPool RJ-30 about 9 months ago. Working great, very happy.

We just bought a house that has a Hayward Aqua Rite system of unknown age. Says the salt level is 300, cell is getting voltage but 0 current. Flow sensor is working correctly. I'm assuming the cell needs replacement.

I'm thinking about taking the CircuPool out of our current house (before we list it for sale) and putting it in the new house.

Is there some reason the Hayward system is better? Obviously replacing the cell is easier, but an expense I'd like to avoid unless there's a compelling reason to stick with the Hayward. despite not knowing the age of the controller.

Is there any test (e.g. resistance) I could do to determine the condition of the cell? Unlike the CircuPool, the Hayward's case is not clear so I don't know if the cells are all crapped up with stuff.

 

[ajw22]

Is there any test (e.g. resistance) I could do to determine the condition of the cell?

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• Cell type

The Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guidelines explains each reading.

• Instant salt = the cells reading of the current salt PPM
• Average Salt = the average salt reading of the last 3 cycles of the cell.

To estimate the performance of the Aquarite cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity. If the performance is less than 75%, the cell is failing and it's time to consider replacing the cell. You need to be sure about the actual salinity by using a salt test like the Taylor K-1766.

Check the instant salinity reading and then cycle power to reverse polarity and recheck the instant salinity reading. The numbers should be about the same +/- 200 ppm.

You can get the age of the cell from the serial number. It will be 3Exx, where xx is the year it was made.

 

[dcaton]

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

Thanks. I won't be able to do any of that now until next Wed. I think it's a pretty safe bet, given the lack of maintenance in some other areas of the house, that the cell has not been replaced anytime recent and is due.

Going on that premise, would there be any reason to keep the Hayward controller? Does it also have the age in the serial number?

 

[ajw22]

Going on that premise, would there be any reason to keep the Hayward controller?

Does the pool have any other Hayward automation?

What controls power to the Aquarite only when the pump is running?

Does it also have the age in the serial number?

I think it does but age of the controller is not as important as condition of the board. Hayward boards tend to overheat and burn components and solder joints. Open up the Aquarite cabinet and examine the board and post pics of it. See the Wiki for pics of what problems look like - Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

 

[dcaton]

Does the pool have any other Hayward automation?

No. There's a dumb timer on the pump (Pentair single speed) but I'm going to swap that out with a fairly new Pentair Superflo VS I also recently installed at our current home. So no integrated automation.

I'll take a look at the Hayward board next week. Thanks for the tips.