Hello gss1537,
I too, as Jay above said, think it looks like the foam that gets formed from using splashless, low splash bleach, but can't be sure until we know what's been added in there. Kind of looking like a big ole bubble bath right at the moment, isn't it?
To help clear it up faster, I would recommend getting a bucket, cup, or something, and scooping out all the foam that you can.
I have just a few questions:
What chemicals have you recently used in your pool?
Have you recently cleaned it with anything?
What are you using to chlorinate your pool? Powder shock, 3" pucks, liquid chlorine, etc.?
I agree with Al above that IF the pool store testing is correct your pH is too high and needs to be lowered to 7.2ppm, use the Pool math calculator to see how much acid needs to be added to do this.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
Your CH is low at 187, and will need to be adjusted to the 250-350 range.
Your CYA is too high to properly maintain your pool if that 144 is correct. (The only way to remove it is to drain about 50% or more of the water out and refill with fresh water to get it at a manageable level), but of course knowing how inaccurate pool store testing can be, we want to be certain what your exact CYA level is 1st.
Your chlorine is way too low for that CYA, if it is correct, and the chlorine needs to be raised to around 14-20ppm.
Your pH and CH at those levels can damage your pool surface and your equipment, and that high CYA is not going to allow you to be able to keep your chlorine level high enough to prevent algae and bacteria from growing in there .
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
The single best thing you can do for yourself, and your pool, IMO, is to get your own test kit, and to start testing your pool yourself, instead of using the pool store testing, as their tests are very likely not accurate.
We recommend 1 of the following 2 test kits ONLY
1)TF-100 which can be purchased from
http://tftestkits.net/TF-100-Test-Kit-p4.html
or
2)Taylor K-2006 which can also be purchased from
http://tftestkits.net/Taylor-K-2006-p27.html as well as various other places online, and some of your local pool stores may also sell them.
Due to their reliability these are the only 2 test kits we recommend you use. Getting one of these kits will be the single best investment you can make to accurately maintain your pool/spa.
Please review this link: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry
We will do our best to help you figure out what is going on with the foaming, and help you get your pool chemicals adjusted correctly, so they aren't risking damaging your pool, etc. and are safe to be swimming in, but you won't be able to use our methods, and the pool store methods too as they are different. (so you will need to pick one or the other, but not both).
But if you want us to help teach you our methods of pool management we will be more than happy to do so, as soon as you test your levels using one of the recommended test kits, so we can see where they really are at.
Using the Pool Math Calculator
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html and only until your recommended test kit arrives,
1)I'd recommend you use Muriatic Acid (per pool math calculation) in front of a return with the pump running (Be very careful when handling MA and avoid breathing the fumes)to lower your pH from 8.1ppm to 7.2ppm.
Sweep/brush the pool bottom below where you add incase any settles, and wait at least 30mins with the pump running between each chemical add
2)EDIT:Add 1 gallon enough Regular Liquid bleach ONLY per day (active ingredient needs to say Sodium Hypochlorite), (Do not use low splash or splashless bleach because it will foam and you will again have a bubble bath effect). Do this with the pump running, slowly pour in front of the return, and sweep the floor where you poured it in case any settles until you can test your levels using your new recommended test kit.
This will prevent the issue from getting any worse until the levels can be properly tested. If the chlorine/cya levels aren't adjusted accurately it is not safe to swim in it, and you are going to without a doubt end up with an algae outbreak if you don't get the right amount of chlorine in there very soon, that is if you don't already have algae growing in there. END EDIT
It's very possible you already have algae/bacteria growing in there with those levels, depending on how long it has been that low, but only time will tell.
3)You'll need to adjust the CH to the 250-350ppm.
Test all your levels when your new kit arrives, list them here, and we'll go from there.
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask because we are all here to help you.
I hope this helps, and have a wonderful night
