No Power or Generating Light

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Hambonekh

0
Jun 13, 2018
7
Rockfield/KY
Hey guys...new to the forum. So here’s the story: a couple weeks ago my house was nearly hit by lightning. The strike got multiple things in the house including the salt water chlorinator. I had an electrician come by and check everything over. He did determine power was getting to the chlorinator and was sure it had just cooked the board. Rather than waiting several weeks for a pool guy I ordered a new unit on amazon. I followed the directions to a T and wired the plug just as my old chlorinator was wired. So now everything seemed to be working when I noticed that neither the power or the generating light was on. The display is showing correctly. This is a brand new, fresh out of the package unit. What could have possibly happened!!??
I’ve shut the unit down and powered back up. No flow blinks for a few seconds until it gets booted up. Stops blinking then the generating light comes on but only for a few seconds then goes off. Power light never comes on. Tried flipping to super chlorinate and that light doesn’t come on either.

specs below:

Hayward Goldline Aquarite Chlorinator
hayward goldline t-cell 9
 
Come on guys. No replies?! It makes no sense to me. Brand new chlorinator. Brand new cell. The LEDs work but just aren’t coming on. Give me your thoughts. Anything will help. I’ve done all the troubleshooting Baloney Sandwich. Need some
pro advice. This cost me $800!
 
Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

I have no experience with Hayward SWCG's. Did you run through their trouble shooting? As it is new, did you call their technical service number?

I assume this is a OEM SWCG, not a generic?

If the original SWCG took a lightening hit, could the control box also be compromised?

Take care.

- - - Updated - - -

How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite - INYOPools.com
 
What are the diagnostic readings?

Check incoming power. Make sure that the wiring is correct for the voltage.
Check for 20 to 24 VAC between the yellow wires. Make sure meter is set to AC not DC.
Check the 20 amp yellow fuse.
Check for 10-14 VAC between the orange wire and the green grounding lug.
Check diagnostics if available.
Check thermistor for cracks.
 
JamesW said:
What are the diagnostic readings?

Check incoming power. Make sure that the wiring is correct for the voltage.
Check for 20 to 24 VAC between the yellow wires. Make sure meter is set to AC not DC.
Check the 20 amp yellow fuse.
Check for 10-14 VAC between the orange wire and the green grounding lug.
Check diagnostics if available.
Check thermistor for cracks.
Click to expand...

Incoming power is 127 VAC
volrage between yellow wires is only 12.2 VAC
Fuse is good
12.5 VAC between orange and green
Cell voltage reading: 16.3
cell amperage: 0.00


thermistors look fine to me!

if it’s getting power to the display why wouldn’t the lights be working?

88b01436-db42-428f-b28d-1ddb40f9b1cc
 
So you ordered a new control box and a new cell? Are you sure it is set for 120V and not 240V? I believe there is some kind of jumper if I remember right. The control box and cell are like 99% of the salt system, other than the flow sensor.
 
There is a wiring diagram on the inside of the door.

If you have 120 volt supply instead of 240, you need to change the jumpers.

The diagnostic readings are the numbers that are on the display when you push the little black button.
 
Hambonekh said:
Incoming power is 127 VAC
volrage between yellow wires is only 12.2 VAC
Fuse is good
12.5 VAC between orange and green
there is no diagnostic codes showing or I don’t know how to find them.

thermistors look fine to me!

if it’s getting power to the display why wouldn’t the lights be working?
Click to expand...

Hayward SWCG system is configured to 240 Volts AC by default when shipped. Turn off the power and reconfigure the jumper settings to accept 120V as shown in the label attached in the back of the door.

 
Meadow said:
Hayward SWCG system is configured to 240 Volts AC by default when shipped. Turn off the power and reconfigure the jumper settings to accept 120V as shown in the label attached in the back of the door.

Click to expand...

Thanks this may be helpful. However, the unit didn’t ship with any jumpers attached and my old unit also did not have jumpers. Right now I just have the black going to #4 and the white going to #1 because that’s how the installer wire my old unit. I’m trying to upload a picture but having trouble from my phone.

D4A09B2B-6003-4F15-8D90-CCC856093C25.jpg

So should I add jumpers even though it came with none?
 
Hambonekh said:
Thanks this may be helpful. However, the unit didn’t ship with any jumpers attached and my old unit also did not have jumpers. Right now I just have the black going to #4 and the white going to #1 because that’s how the installer wire my old unit. I’m trying to upload a picture but having trouble from my phone.

View attachment 80374

So should I add jumpers even though it came with none?
Click to expand...
Are you sure about that? Can you move the incoming AC wires out of the way and post another picture focusing on the terminals?

The jumper you are looking for looks like this. In the picture, there are 2 jumpers one of top of the other.
 
Last edited:

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I’ll be dadgummed you were right. I didn’t notice the little galvanized clips are the jumpers. Was looking for actually jumper wires. Let me reconfigure this and will give y’all an update soon. It wouldn’t have damaged anything giving it power before configuring those jumpers would it?
 
Hambonekh said:
I’ll be dadgummed you were right. I didn’t notice the little galvanized clips are the jumpers. Was looking for actually jumper wires. Let me reconfigure this and will give y’all an update soon. It wouldn’t have damaged anything giving it power before configuring those jumpers would it?
Click to expand...
Nope, which is good. It could have been a catastrophe if the board is configured to 120V when shipped by default.
 
So what did you do? What did you have to do with the jumpers? Wasn't it right to just put one to 1 and the other to 4? Weren't the jumpers in the right place? (Asking because mine blew up.)
 
Tinaja said:
Wasn't it right to just put one to 1 and the other to 4? Weren't the jumpers in the right place? (Asking because mine blew up.)
Click to expand...
If you installed one of the metal jumper across terminals 1 & 2 and the other across terminals 3 & 4 and feed 220VAC, then you have a catastrophe. Varistors will instantly torched itself due to excessive voltage. Hope this is not the obvious reason why the R22 on your board went up in flames?

For 220V configuration, only terminals 2 & 3 should have the metal jumper.
 
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