No more Problems Algicide
- Thread starter tlarson
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,276
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
TFP does not recommend the use of any type of algaecide for normal use. Follow FC/CYA Levels and you will not have algae.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
TFP does not recommend the use of any type of algaecide for normal use. Follow FC/CYA Levels and you will not have algae.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,751
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Additionally, No Mor algaecide seems to be sodium bromide.
https://www.hydropool.com/downloads/MSDS/united-chemicals/united-chemicals-no-mor-problems-msds.pdf
Come winter time, "IF" you wish to use an algaecide at closing as insurance, look for a product with Polyquat 60 as the main ingrediant. As Marty said though, this time of year, stick to chlorine - aka regular bleach. Welcome!
https://www.hydropool.com/downloads/MSDS/united-chemicals/united-chemicals-no-mor-problems-msds.pdf
Come winter time, "IF" you wish to use an algaecide at closing as insurance, look for a product with Polyquat 60 as the main ingrediant. As Marty said though, this time of year, stick to chlorine - aka regular bleach. Welcome!
Other than the cost. Are there any detrimental effects of using Polyquat 60 over time?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,276
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Your daily chlorine loss will increase while it is consuming the algaecide. Otherwise, no.
Never add bromide to your pool unless you want to have a bromide pool instead of a chlorine pool! What a nightmare!
<shriek!>
Ok, calm now.
Algaecide doesn't even kill algae so it isn't really necessary. Good water maintenance using TFP methods are the best way to avoid algae!
Maddie
<shriek!>
Ok, calm now.
Algaecide doesn't even kill algae so it isn't really necessary. Good water maintenance using TFP methods are the best way to avoid algae!Maddie
We live on the west coast of Florida. For 20 years we have used No Mor Problems. It has been a miracle, especially in the summer. I hadn’t bought it for awhile and the pool is just not right, especially since it got hot. My hubby uses 1 cup a week until it’s clear and blue. Then 1/2 cup week for maintenance. If your chlorine is reading high but green you probably have too much stabilizer. A few years back that happened so we diluted the water and cut back on tablets.
Routine use of algaecide is not a good practice. Many contain copper which will build up in your pool, stain your pool surfaces and can causes blond hair to turn green.
I'd much rather hear that someone keeps their FC up at a commiserate level to their CYA, then no algaecide is ever needed. By the way, algaecide does not kill algae, it just helps prevent it.
TFP believes in using the right chemicals and no others. Saves money and saves problems down the road.
Maddie
I'd much rather hear that someone keeps their FC up at a commiserate level to their CYA, then no algaecide is ever needed. By the way, algaecide does not kill algae, it just helps prevent it.
TFP believes in using the right chemicals and no others. Saves money and saves problems down the road.
Maddie
In general, algaecides provide a false sense of security because it reduces the likelihood of getting algae. It is usually that presence of algae that makes one realize that the water is not properly sanitized or safe to prevent disease transmission.
I believe I read at one time that the polyquat either has a slimy feel or smell in the water which some people do not like
I believe I read at one time that the polyquat either has a slimy feel or smell in the water which some people do not like
LoneWolfArcher
Bronze Supporter
As a fellow newbie.....please listen to these folks. They have taught me that this is all I need:
A real testkit. See the testkit info at this site, and get a real test kit.
Liquid chlorine. Tablets are a problem waiting to happen. Only use tablets when you go on vacation.
Muriatic acid. To lower pH. Keep your pH between 7.0 and 8.0.
Borax or baking soda to increase pH. Again, keep it to 7.0 and 8.0.
CYA. This is chlorine stabilizier. Should be ideally at 30ppm (lower if an indoor pool). If you have used tablets for a while, they contain CYA which means you probably have high CYA which affects your chlorine effectiveness (higher CYA requires higher FC).
Don't fight it. These guys know their stuff. I got on board a few weeks ago and my pool is already better for it!
A real testkit. See the testkit info at this site, and get a real test kit.
Liquid chlorine. Tablets are a problem waiting to happen. Only use tablets when you go on vacation.
Muriatic acid. To lower pH. Keep your pH between 7.0 and 8.0.
Borax or baking soda to increase pH. Again, keep it to 7.0 and 8.0.
CYA. This is chlorine stabilizier. Should be ideally at 30ppm (lower if an indoor pool). If you have used tablets for a while, they contain CYA which means you probably have high CYA which affects your chlorine effectiveness (higher CYA requires higher FC).
Don't fight it. These guys know their stuff. I got on board a few weeks ago and my pool is already better for it!
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