No Free Chlorine - Please help!

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kimkats said:
Most tests for CYA do not go above 100 so there is no telling just how high it is.
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Sorry for butting into somebody else's thread, but I have a relevant question, which for all I know could be helpful here. For really high CYA, would it work if he took a sample of tap water, known to have 0 CYA, and mix it in a container with some of his pool water, in a 1:1 ratio, then measure the CYA in that mixture? Then for example, if the test kit reads 60, he'd know his pool really had a CYA of 120? Assuming the readings in the 60 range are more accurate than, as you say, anything above 100 is, I wonder if this trick I just described would be an accurate way to measure his CYA.

I was thinking that if he could have an accurate idea right now, then he'd know how much water he should drain and replace.
 
Just wanted to point out that one forum member early on indicated that you can also lower CYA by "evaporation" which is not true. The only way to reduce CYA is by draining and replacing water.
 
Zindar said:
Sorry for butting into somebody else's thread, but I have a relevant question, which for all I know could be helpful here. For really high CYA, would it work if he took a sample of tap water, known to have 0 CYA, and mix it in a container with some of his pool water, in a 1:1 ratio, then measure the CYA in that mixture? Then for example, if the test kit reads 60, he'd know his pool really had a CYA of 120? Assuming the readings in the 60 range are more accurate than, as you say, anything above 100 is, I wonder if this trick I just described would be an accurate way to measure his CYA.

I was thinking that if he could have an accurate idea right now, then he'd know how much water he should drain and replace.
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You just described the dilution test method we teach and recommend and which is in the Extended Test Instructions: http://www.troublefreepool.com/thre...Kit-Directions?p=203524&viewfull=1#post203524

But there is no need for a bucket, just mix enough water in your CYA test bottle.
 
Debjpools said:
Is it safe to say when testing for Chlorine my results are now at 3.0?
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I'm having trouble following what you're asking... why would your free chlorine be at 3.0, when the last results you posted show that it was zero last Friday?

Did you seriously add 28 pounds of shock? That's an insane amount. 28 lbs of dichlor-based shock (which is what I believe the BioGuard is) would raise FC from zero to somewhere around 120. That advice alone from the pool store should have raised an eyebrow.

If you're going to be successful with this method, you've got to approach it systematically. And the first step - the absolutely critical, non negotiable step - is to know what you're starting out with. The pool store tests are unreliable, and test strips aren't going to get you there.

You really need to have a reliable test kit in hand - the Taylor K2006, which is what I have, or the TF-100, and find out exactly what your pH, FC, CC, CYA, and total alkalinity are. Once you have that data, these guys can advise you on the next step to take - because right now, doing things like throwing 28 lbs of shock at it is wasting your money and not accomplishing what you want to do.
 
After putting 28 lbs of Smart Shock (dichlor-based shock) beginning of July. The Pool store test said my FC was good (never saw the exact test they did) but within 3 weeks FC level went down to zero again and small amt of chlorine in pool (in that time we had a lot of rain and warmer temps) on the July 18th the pool store told me I needed to add 15 lbs of another product cost $110 called Smart Soluble. So instead of throwing more money away which since open the open on June 2 has come to close to $500 I'm searching for an more economical and safe way to treat my pool for my family and found this TFP site.

Right now, I do have my own Chlorine & PH test kit and know I need to get the TF-100.
FYI: I have been able to maintain this pool for over 15 years started with Bacqucil -> Bioguard -> ? Not sure what to do but can't afford to waste any more money.

By the way, I used Dollar General Bleach $2.75 for 3.87 qt bottle.
 

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So clear this up: is this a Baq pool or a chlorine pool?

I am not sure we can make much in the way of meaningful recommendations until you provide a full set of test results: FC CC pH TA CH and CYA.

Let me ask another question, So you added a crazy amount of dichlor and then say FC was zero in 3 weeks ... were you adding chlorine in those 3 weeks? Do you realize that chlorine is a consumable and needs to be added nearly every day?
 
Unless I am overlooking, there are 30 posts in this thread and no responder has suggested that OP start by reading "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.


You cannot possibly bring all these complex ideas to the table when you have not yet given the OP a chance to learn to spell and understand the names and the functions theses parameters perform.
 
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