No Flow LO / cell not coming on

6XSBChamps

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Jul 12, 2021
282
Longview, Tx
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
After having the salt cell off all winter I tried to turn it on today but I’m getting No Flow and the cell isn’t coming on at all. Cell is 3 years old. I have not cleaned it yet. Could that be the issue? Also, I’m not sure what my actual salinity is and I’m just relying on what the pad says right now which is 3.4 and it can’t be right because I have not added salt since the fall. Could salinity cause the cell to not come on?IMG_9594.jpeg
 
Troubleshooting - Front Board
Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.

While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’).

It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the front board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor.

On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the front board.

When the testing and repair is complete reconnect the flow sensor and reset the internal computer (do this by restarting the unit).

*Note: If the the salinity reading has been recalibrated this reading maybe different.

Before condemning the board check salinity setting.
 
What does the LCD mean?

• ‘LO’ – indicates that the water temperature is less than 51 deg. F

• ‘BO’ – indicates the boost cycle which can be activated by pressing the ‘Pool
Temperature’ key for 10 seconds; it can be cancelled by holding the same key
for 10 seconds.

• ‘EC’ - indicates the unit is being controlled by an external controller or ORP device.

• ‘JA’ – Indicates operation is controlled by a Jandy AquaLink RS or PDA, and
system is in AUTO MODE.

• ‘JO’ – Indicates operation is controlled by a Jandy AquaLink RS or PDA, and
system is in SERVICE or TIME MODE.

• ‘JB’ – Indicates operation is controlled by a Jandy AquaLink RS or PDA, and system is in BOOST MODE.
 
Back out there this morning and the LO went away, I’m getting flow. But now the Service light came on with code 145
UPDATE: after running for about 10 mins the “service” light shut off and the cell came on. For now we seem to be working fine.
 
Back to no flow an hour later. And also this code which came up after I pressed and held the Pool Temp button for a few seconds. After rereading James great reply I believe it’s because I put it in boost mode.
I see the cell is reversing. Does that mean anything in terms of my no flow?
IMG_9596.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Can you check the actual flow?

Maybe run the test procedure.
I had to head out to work for the day but I’ll be back at it later this afternoon.
Could it be as simple as just needing to clean the cell since it hasn’t been done in 3 years or would that not be giving me the LO code which came back and no flow?
 
• ‘LO’ – indicates that the water temperature is less than 51 deg. F

If the water temperature is close to this temperature, you should wait until the water temperature is at least 60.

If the water temperature is above about 58 degrees, the trisensor is probably bad.

Try doing the test procedure.
 

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Check the cell and trisensor and clean if necessary.

Make sure that you have plenty of flow.

Check the salinity and water temperature to see if the box is reading them correctly.

Check the inline sensor module to see what program it is using A or B.

Check the software revision from sticker on the CPU.
 
What is the water temperature?

What does the box show for water temperature?

What pump do you have and what speed?

What is the filter pressure?
Water temp is 63 based on floater in pool. My remote says the same. I will check the box when I head home for lunch soon.
Pump speed 3250
Filter pressure 20 psi
 
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Back to no flow an hour later. And also this code which came up after I pressed and held the Pool Temp button for a few seconds. After rereading James great reply I believe it’s because I put it in boost mode.
I see the cell is reversing. Does that mean anything in terms of my no flow?
View attachment 558033
Cell reversing means the polarity of the internal plates is changed so that the electricity flows in a reverse direction. Helps clean the cells. Has nothing to do with waterflow.
 
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Troubleshooting - Front Board
Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.

While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’).

It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the front board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor.

On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the front board.

When the testing and repair is complete reconnect the flow sensor and reset the internal computer (do this by restarting the unit).

*Note: If the the salinity reading has been recalibrated this reading maybe different.

Before condemning the board check salinity setting.
When referring to the test buttons you mention, where are they? This is my box
IMG_9598.jpeg
 

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