No flow failure out of box

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JamesW said:
Actually, since you have a VS pump, just turn the pump off at the pump control while leaving the box powered. Leave the box switch in the OFF position so that the cell doesn't generate with the pump off. Unscrew the flow switch and manually close it to see if the no flow goes away. You might have to temporarily move the box switch to the auto position, but only do it briefly.

Any hardware store will have a 1/2" PVC pipe thread plug if you want to do it with the pump on.

First, do the test cord. Cut the cord, strip back the wires to expose the copper and twist the copper together to simulate a closed switch.
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I will just get the plug as well as I found it.

www.homedepot.com

DURA 1/2 in. Schedule 40 PVC Plug fitting C450-005 - The Home Depot

Use this DURA Schedule PVC Plug in your underground garden irrigation system to function properly. Convenient to maintain.
www.homedepot.com

So if both are successful, then issue is the cell I assume.

Thanks all, I will report back in few hours.
 
Note that the cell produces hydrogen gas and chlorine gas. If the cell runs with no flow and the gasses are allowed to accumulate, the mixture of gasses can possibly explode. Basically, you get back the energy used when the cell is making chlorine. About 7,500 joules per minute of production.

So, it’s important to make sure that the cell does not run with no flow.

You do this two ways. One, you have a working flow switch and two, you have a timer that turns off the SWG when the pump is off.
 
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The No Flow flashes for 30 seconds from when it detects flow. That's normal.

After 30 seconds, the light should go out.

If the No Flow light is solid, then it means no flow.
 
I had a hayward pro come by the verify the faulty flow switch and they said it was an installation issue. The installer broke the flow switch apparently. Didn't charge me thank god as I was on his route home and it took him 2mins.
 
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The installer damaged the switch when he put it in the hole.

Sometimes the hole has a lip that the switch can catch on.

The original Hayward T has an arrow and does not have the lip issue.

A regular T usually has the lip. If there is no arrow, the T is probably not original Hayward.

Call them back and tell them to get you a new switch.
 
JamesW said:
The installer damaged the switch when he put it in the hole.

Sometimes the hole has a lip that the switch can catch on.

Call them back and tell them to get you a new switch.
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trying to reply to all your comments, a) yes with the phone cord on, after 30-60seconds the light goes off. c) Yep, I will text the owner now.
 
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glx-flo-2.jpg

This is what the genuine T looks like.
 
JoonasD said:
Looking at replacement parts, it seems the hole on the flow switch has a plastic puck.
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The puck is a magnet, which closes the switch. It probably got knocked off when the service person was jamming it in the hole.

I think that the arrow molded into the plastic is the month of manufacture and the center number is the year.
 
JamesW said:
The puck is a magnet, which closes the switch. It probably got knocked off when the service person was jamming it in the hole.

I think that the arrow molded into the plastic is the month of manufacture and the center number is the year.
Click to expand...
If it is in my lines, should I be worried? I didn't see it in my pool yet. My return lines are big enough so it shouldnt get stuck, and all returns are working just fine. Missed your comment on the T. It is Hayward original, I think he just removed the mark. Also, I looked at the replacement T in inyo ploos and looking the 360 thing, it looked identical both ways.
 
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