No Backwash Option & No Multi-Valve On IG Pool

[jblizzle]

Not really. You have no idea what your CYA level is and that determines the level of FC you require. Best you can do is lower the pH to get it in range in the 7s and keep your FC test maxed out (is it pink or yellow).

Also I don't think you are doing the tests correctly based on what you wrote. There are no drops to make anything clear.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Can you please add your pools info into your signature as outlined here - - > http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/165-getting-started

Is that enough to at least get me in the ballpark until the kit is purchased and arrives?

What ballpark ?? It sounds like you are just spinning your wheels trying to keep from going backwards to a green monster. :uhh:

You need to re-read this :lookhere: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl If you want sparkling blue water that isn't gobbling up chlorine faster than you can add it you need to follow the instructions.
Are you running the pump 24/7 or as you posted are you only running it 8am to 6pm ??

The results you're posting are incomplete and a bit suspect. Your test results are critical in us helping you and you helping the pool. Without good numbers it's a waste of time, chemical and money as you are presently just barely keeping ahead of turning into a swamp.
We need to get an accurate CYA level to be able to know what FC level you need in your pool to kill algae. If your SLAM level is supposed to be 12 FC for your CYA and you are at 8 or 6 you might be holding it in check but you are not killing it and all you are doing is tossing in bleach to keep it in check. Once you kill it by achieving and MAINTAINING the FC level your pool will stop eating chlorine and only need a maintenance dose to keep it clean. If you don't kill it you can expect to continue to need 5, 6, 6+ bottles a week to simply maintain your pool as is

I know this isn't popular but if you aren't good at testing yourself maybe you should take a sample to a pool store or better two different stores or make two trips and average the readings so we have something to work with. It's not ideal but it seems to be the best of what we might have to work with until you get your kit and up to speed.
We really need to get a CYA level so we can choose a SLAM FC level that you need to MAINTAIN. Not just bring FC back up to that level once or twice a day but maintain as best you can (might be once or twice a day until you have your kit).
Also knowing what your CC level is will help in guesstimating how much "stuff" is still left to kill and when you are done with your SLAM.
Videos on testing your water :lookhere: https://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

 

[Quarterwave]

Thanks everyone.

Can someone please tell me what "CYA" and "FC" is an acronym for? I've only posted 9 times here, so I don't know what they mean.

Having said that, I rebuilt my house from top to bottom, inside and out so I'd like to think taking some water samples is within the range of my ability.

Also, thanks for the link to the videos. Very helpful.

I'll buy the kit and have it shipped, run more samples and then post results.

Thanks again.

Can you please add your pools info into your signature as outlined here - - > http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/165-getting-started



What ballpark ?? It sounds like you are just spinning your wheels trying to keep from going backwards to a green monster. :uhh:

You need to re-read this :lookhere: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl If you want sparkling blue water that isn't gobbling up chlorine faster than you can add it you need to follow the instructions.
Are you running the pump 24/7 or as you posted are you only running it 8am to 6pm ??

The results you're posting are incomplete and a bit suspect. Your test results are critical in us helping you and you helping the pool. Without good numbers it's a waste of time, chemical and money as you are presently just barely keeping ahead of turning into a swamp.
We need to get an accurate CYA level to be able to know what FC level you need in your pool to kill algae. If your SLAM level is supposed to be 12 FC for your CYA and you are at 8 or 6 you might be holding it in check but you are not killing it and all you are doing is tossing in bleach to keep it in check. Once you kill it by achieving and MAINTAINING the FC level your pool will stop eating chlorine and only need a maintenance dose to keep it clean. If you don't kill it you can expect to continue to need 5, 6, 6+ bottles a week to simply maintain your pool as is

I know this isn't popular but if you aren't good at testing yourself maybe you should take a sample to a pool store or better two different stores or make two trips and average the readings so we have something to work with. It's not ideal but it seems to be the best of what we might have to work with until you get your kit and up to speed.
We really need to get a CYA level so we can choose a SLAM FC level that you need to MAINTAIN. Not just bring FC back up to that level once or twice a day but maintain as best you can (might be once or twice a day until you have your kit).
Also knowing what your CC level is will help in guesstimating how much "stuff" is still left to kill and when you are done with your SLAM.
Videos on testing your water :lookhere: https://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

 

[Abigail K]

Please see ABCs of pool water chemistry

 

[Quarterwave]

Yup, just did. Thx.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Re: No Backwash Option & No Multi-Valve On IG Pool

Can someone please tell me what "CYA" and "FC" is an acronym for? I've only posted 9 times here, so I don't know what they mean.

If you know what swimming pool stabilizer is, that's mostly CYA. CYA is the major chemical in stabilizer.

Come on, really Is your Google broken ?? https://www.google.com/#q=CYA swimming pool :google:
Cyanuric acid (CYA), also called stabilizer or conditioner, is used in pools and spas exposed to the sun to reduce the rate of decomposition of free available chlorine by the ultraviolet rays in sunlight.


FC = Free Chlorine or the chlorine that is available to do the sanitizing. It gets a bit more complicated as FC + CC = TC
CC = Combined Chlorine
TC = Total Chlorine
That's where reading the ABC's comes in handy. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry

- - - Updated - - -

Some people aren't good at testing but you sound like you have skills so maybe it's just a matter of getting your hands on a good kit. Once we have a CYA level we can work with you'll be adding more bleach but that bleach will be at a level to kill algae and get you off the treadmill of just adding to keep clean and then when you complete the SLAM you can cut way back and just maintain. Cut back to the level recommended once again for the CYA level you're at.

 

[Quarterwave]

Re: No Backwash Option & No Multi-Valve On IG Pool

Thank you for the information. The kit should be here in a few days. Until then I'm going to just keep filtering and monitoring the chlorine level.

Updates soon!

If you know what swimming pool stabilizer is, that's mostly CYA. CYA is the major chemical in stabilizer.

Come on, really Is your Google broken ?? https://www.google.com/#q=CYA swimming pool :google:
Cyanuric acid (CYA), also called stabilizer or conditioner, is used in pools and spas exposed to the sun to reduce the rate of decomposition of free available chlorine by the ultraviolet rays in sunlight.


FC = Free Chlorine or the chlorine that is available to do the sanitizing. It gets a bit more complicated as FC + CC = TC
CC = Combined Chlorine
TC = Total Chlorine
That's where reading the ABC's comes in handy. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry

- - - Updated - - -

Some people aren't good at testing but you sound like you have skills so maybe it's just a matter of getting your hands on a good kit. Once we have a CYA level we can work with you'll be adding more bleach but that bleach will be at a level to kill algae and get you off the treadmill of just adding to keep clean and then when you complete the SLAM you can cut way back and just maintain. Cut back to the level recommended once again for the CYA level you're at.

 

[freetime]

The skimmer that the vacuum hoses go into is a two-hole skimmer and so I use the hole that has the most suction and start to try and vacuum out the debris. After watching some youTube videos for comparison, my vacuum doesn't vacuum up anywhere near as much as the videos that I have seen

Vac hose has plenty resistance so the suction will find another path if the resistance is lower e.g. via another skimmer, second outlet on the skimmer, main drain etc.

You may need to shut off some of these other outlets so the suction all goes via the vac.

 

[n240sxguy]

My skimmers are plumbed separately. If I run the vac on nothing but the skimmer it is hooked to, it will stick to the drain if I go straight over the top of it. Found that out last time I vacuumed. I despise vacuuming by the way. I'm literally pricing suction cleaners because I hate it so much, and I've only done it three times.

 

[freetime]

My skimmers are plumbed separately. If I run the vac on nothing but the skimmer it is hooked to, it will stick to the drain if I go straight over the top of it. Found that out last time I vacuumed. I despise vacuuming by the way. I'm literally pricing suction cleaners because I hate it so much, and I've only done it three times.

Great piece of info there - points right to the problem

For safety skimmer outlets can have an alternate path back to the pool - in the UK we call it a "balance pipe" - the idea is to relieve suction if something gets stuck in the skimmer throat (e.g. a child) and also prevents the pump loosing prime if water level drops below the skimmer throat. Sounds like your skimmer "balance pipe" is Teed somehow into your main drain line, hence the vac sticking to the drain, because this closes the loop. I'm no expert on USA pool plumbing - this may be standard practice but TBH I don't know, so others please correct me if I got this wrong!

Try putting a thin rubber mat (or something similar) in the pool over the main drain to shut it off - the suction will hold it in place - and see what happens to the vac suction

May also help to use a vac plate adaptor in the skimmer - the plate covers both outlets so you don't loose suction from the other

Hope this helps!

 

[jcowart]

I will chime in on the no multi-port. Yes I think it's a mistake to not have a valve for pump to waist, but very few builders use them with cart filters. Looking at your pictures you can add a valve. Cut the coupling in the line between the pump and filter. Then add a 3 way no lube pool valve $40-$60.

 

[n240sxguy]

For safety skimmer outlets can have an alternate path back to the pool - in the UK we call it a "balance pipe" - the idea is to relieve suction if something gets stuck in the skimmer throat (e.g. a child) and also prevents the pump loosing prime if water level drops below the skimmer throat. Sounds like your skimmer "balance pipe" is Teed somehow into your main drain line, hence the vac sticking to the drain, because this closes the loop. I'm no expert on USA pool plumbing - this may be standard practice but TBH I don't know, so others please correct me if I got this wrong!

Try putting a thin rubber mat (or something similar) in the pool over the main drain to shut it off - the suction will hold it in place - and see what happens to the vac suction

I don't have a problem with suction like the OP is having. I was just trying to explain what kind of suction you can attain. I don't have a balance pipe because everything is plumbed separately. My vacuum has brushes all a round the sides. If I go over one of the two drains the dome top of the from lands in the middle of the cc head where there are no bristles and it has enough vacuum to hold it there; unlike the OP who couldn't tell if theirs was hardly working. The rubber mat could help them diagnose their vacuum problem by seeing if their skimmer is pulling from more than one place.

 

[freetime]

I don't have a problem with suction like the OP is having. I was just trying to explain what kind of suction you can attain. I don't have a balance pipe because everything is plumbed separately. My vacuum has brushes all a round the sides. If I go over one of the two drains the dome top of the from lands in the middle of the cc head where there are no bristles and it has enough vacuum to hold it there; unlike the OP who couldn't tell if theirs was hardly working. The rubber mat could help them diagnose their vacuum problem by seeing if their skimmer is pulling from more than one place.

Oops...my bad didn't notice you weren't the OP

Does my plumbing description make any sense? seems likely to me that the OP has a problem with the suction finding another path when the vac is connected, unless it's just poor suction to begin with.

 

[n240sxguy]

I think that's what it sounds like. The skimmer probably has an equalization line to the drain. I think he said there were two holes in the skimmer.

 

[bear31088]

Quarterwave,

I'm relatively new with TFP, but you'll never be able to manage your pool water chemistry wihhout using one of the recommended test kits. The initial $$ outlay is small in comparison to what you'll spend using "strips" and buying recommended chemicals from the pool store. Honest.