I was messing around with it yesterday. Trying to see how low of a speed I needed to satisfy the flow switch. I went so low that I had 0 psi on the filter, yet the switch was still making. Is it ok to run the filter at 0?
Next project - pool equipment pad and replumb
- Thread starter MasterTinkerer
- Start date
I was messing around with it yesterday. Trying to see how low of a speed I needed to satisfy the flow switch. I went so low that I had 0 psi on the filter, yet the switch was still making. Is it ok to run the filter at 0?
- May 23, 2015
- 24,542
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- May 23, 2015
- 24,542
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You’ve got really low head loss. How does the water feel coming out of the returns?
Honestly speaking, the VSPs aren’t linear in their power use with RPM and I believe when you get below 1000RPM, there’s very little change in power consumption.
As long as the SWG is happy and your skimmer(s) are properly functioning at low RPM, then filter pressure isn’t a huge deal. I would say that any speed between 1000 & 1500rpm is going to consume such little power that it hardly matters. You can certainly install the flow-vis meter if you want but it’s not really necessary. Most people that put them in stop paying attention to them after a while because their pools are so trouble free that they become downright boring to run. Yours will be that way too
Honestly speaking, the VSPs aren’t linear in their power use with RPM and I believe when you get below 1000RPM, there’s very little change in power consumption.
As long as the SWG is happy and your skimmer(s) are properly functioning at low RPM, then filter pressure isn’t a huge deal. I would say that any speed between 1000 & 1500rpm is going to consume such little power that it hardly matters. You can certainly install the flow-vis meter if you want but it’s not really necessary. Most people that put them in stop paying attention to them after a while because their pools are so trouble free that they become downright boring to run. Yours will be that way too
Better to run the SWG at high % and short time or low % and longer time? It seems that the cost of running my pump is going to be negligible, so I can do either.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,542
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Again, it really doesn’t matter. TFP’ers often do one or the other. I typically run my SWG over long time periods and lower % output because I like to keep the chlorine up when the sun is bright. As you say, pump energy consumption is so negligible that you can really do either one. Many TFP’ers run their pumps on super low speed 24/7 (just enough to get the skimmer weir door to pull down) and then just schedule a higher RPM run time during the portion of the day they want to generate chlorine.
It’s honestly up to you.
It’s honestly up to you.
- Jul 16, 2012
- 7,212
- Pool Size
- 27000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I like longer run times because I get more effective skimming for pollen, dog hair, etc.
today's test results...
temp = 63
FC = 5.5 (still haven't started the SWG)
CYA = 60
pH = 7.3
TA = 50
CH = 30
Salt = 3000
Borates = didn't test today, but I think that they were 20-30 last check
I added a 4# box of baking soda last night and what was left of a 4# box of borax. I noticed that there was still a chunk of borax at the bottom this morning, so I don't trust that they are fully incorporated in the results above.
So... CSI is still hanging around -2. I think that I'm going to add 25# tub of calcium chloride.
After that, I think that I need to add another 4# box of borax and 4# box of baking soda... then the leftover 25# of boric acid that I have from last year.
Any other recommendations?
temp = 63
FC = 5.5 (still haven't started the SWG)
CYA = 60
pH = 7.3
TA = 50
CH = 30
Salt = 3000
Borates = didn't test today, but I think that they were 20-30 last check
I added a 4# box of baking soda last night and what was left of a 4# box of borax. I noticed that there was still a chunk of borax at the bottom this morning, so I don't trust that they are fully incorporated in the results above.
So... CSI is still hanging around -2. I think that I'm going to add 25# tub of calcium chloride.
After that, I think that I need to add another 4# box of borax and 4# box of baking soda... then the leftover 25# of boric acid that I have from last year.
Any other recommendations?
- May 23, 2015
- 24,542
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I wouldn’t add anymore borax or baking soda until everything evens out.
CH up definitely. Pre-dissolve in a bucket though. Calcium chloride heats up a lot when it hydrates and you do not want those granules sitting against your liner.
CH up definitely. Pre-dissolve in a bucket though. Calcium chloride heats up a lot when it hydrates and you do not want those granules sitting against your liner.
Today's tests...
FC = 4.5
CH = 175
TA = 60
pH = 7.5
time to add the boric acid I do believe.
I'm trying to get my chemistry right then I'll start the SWG. Might dump one of my leftover jugs of bleach in while waiting to ensure the FC doesn't drop too far.
I need to check CYA again to validate my last measurements, but I'll do that later tonight.
FC = 4.5
CH = 175
TA = 60
pH = 7.5
time to add the boric acid I do believe.
I'm trying to get my chemistry right then I'll start the SWG. Might dump one of my leftover jugs of bleach in while waiting to ensure the FC doesn't drop too far.
I need to check CYA again to validate my last measurements, but I'll do that later tonight.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,542
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yep. Looks good. pH will go down a little bit but should recover just fine. Take a picture before and after borates to see if you can detect a change in sparkliness....
I will... but I’m not starting at 0, so it probably won’t be quite as obvious
My SWG says it’s output is 1.45# of chlorine per 24 hours.
If my memory serves me right, I was adding 1 jug (121 oz) of 8.25% bleach every-other day last summer. So... how does that convert?
How do you convert fluid oz of chlorine to pounds of chlorine?
I just set the timer on the SWG to allow it to run from 09:00 to 21:00... based on the idea that my demand for bleach was about 5 fluid oz of pure chlorine per day, I should be able to calculate a target percentage for the SWG.
As of now, I am still letting the pump run 24/7 @ 1500 RPM... the pump display says that’s 240 Watts. I may back it down later, but don’t see a big need at such a low energy consumption.
If my memory serves me right, I was adding 1 jug (121 oz) of 8.25% bleach every-other day last summer. So... how does that convert?
How do you convert fluid oz of chlorine to pounds of chlorine?
I just set the timer on the SWG to allow it to run from 09:00 to 21:00... based on the idea that my demand for bleach was about 5 fluid oz of pure chlorine per day, I should be able to calculate a target percentage for the SWG.
As of now, I am still letting the pump run 24/7 @ 1500 RPM... the pump display says that’s 240 Watts. I may back it down later, but don’t see a big need at such a low energy consumption.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,542
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
1.45lbs of chlorine gas in your 30k gallon pool will increase FC by 5.8ppm. 121 fl oz of 8.25% LC increases FC by 2.7ppm.
So, in order for your SWG to add as much FC as that gallon of LC, you’ll need to run it for 11 hours at 100% output.
So, in order for your SWG to add as much FC as that gallon of LC, you’ll need to run it for 11 hours at 100% output.
Of course! What better way to convert volume to mass... the weight of gas! (I really wish there was a universally accepted sarcasm font)
I guess those numbers came from pool math... didn’t even consider trying that. Thanks Matt
- May 23, 2015
- 24,542
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I have a scientific calculator on my iPhone that’s programmable. I have a few “cheater” programs in it for doing very quick math calculations.
PoolMath can do it as well, but the 1990’s vintage CSS webpage design makes me cringe...all it really needs is some dancing hamsters and 8-bit background music on auto-loop to make it complete....plus it’s not at all mobile friendly so I avoid using it when on my phone.
Progammable calculator makes me think back to my TI-95. Playing solitaire on my calculator instead of paying attention in class... but I digress...
Thoughts on one of these for my old Polaris return?
PoolSkim Pool Skimmer and Pool Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WKOEGM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_FYdVAbG7W28M3
Thoughts on one of these for my old Polaris return?
PoolSkim Pool Skimmer and Pool Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WKOEGM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_FYdVAbG7W28M3
- May 23, 2015
- 24,542
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I’m a super-geek as I only do reverse-polish notation (RPN) so I only ever owned HP calculators. Had many over my life but the best feature by far was the RPN input - since most people can’t think that way, no one ever borrows your calculator and it never gets “lost”.
You can look up PoolSkim on TFP and you’ll find lots of post telling you not to waste your money on it. Maybe just plumb the Polaris line to your return plumbing and use it that way...
You can look up PoolSkim on TFP and you’ll find lots of post telling you not to waste your money on it. Maybe just plumb the Polaris line to your return plumbing and use it that way...