Newbie with SLAM questions

[mShark]

I started the SLAM this morning and I haven't yet managed to get it up to the FC of 24 I am aiming for. But first the before SLAM measurements.
FC = 2.5
CC = 1.5
CYA = presumed to be about 60, tested by the pool store as 22 twice, then added 1 gallon of liquid stabilizer per PoolMath. My CYA test comes in in a couple of days.
PH = 7.4
TA = 90
CH = 280
SALT = 4010

So based on the FC PoolMath suggested 229 oz. of 12% chlorine. I put that in at 8 am with the pump running and SWG off. I came home at noon and the FC was 7.5. Added another 181 oz. and brushed down the pool. Came back at 6 pm and the FC was 12.5 so added another 123 oz and more scrubbing. At 8 pm the FC was 16. Do I add more tonight, keep trying to get to 24? Did the 2 hours between the addition of chlorine and my last measurement allow whatever is lowering the FC. Is this normal?

 

[proavia]

Based on your other post, you stated you have a Leslies 6-way test kit.
Post a picture of that test kit so we know exactly what you have. We need to kniw what reagents it includes.

Don't use pool store results as a starting point for any chemical additions.
Test your CYA with your own test kit. Then use PoolMath to calculate what your CYA addition would add to that tested number.

For the SLAM Process, you test FC every 'x' hours and add enough liquid chlorine to bring the FC back up to SLAM level based on your CYA.

 

[mShark]

I have since acquired a Taylor K-1515 FAS-DPD kit. I am using the 10ml method, each drop is 0.5 ppm and I am using a single heaping scoop of the powder. I have the 6-way kit that is used for pH and alkalinity. I also have a pH and salt meter. Surprisingly the salt reading matches with the display on my SWG. The pH readings match my brewing meter and tests, as well as the optical drops test which I have always felt iffy about.

 

[proavia]

Can you test CYA with your test kit?
If not, you can not rely on the pool store CYA test- that is the one they get wrong most often.

The SWG "salt" reading is a conductivity test, not a true salt test.
Most likely, your salt meter is the same.
A Taylor K-1766 drop based test kit will provide the actual salinity.

Not having reliable test results will make managing your pool chemistry nearly impossible - and that includes doing a SLAM while expending the least amount of time, effort and money.

 

[mShark]

So I should suspend the SLAM until I get those test kits?

 

[proavia]

Until you are able to acccurately test the CYA yourself, add 5ppm chlorine daily.

How old is your Leslies kit?
If more than 1 year old, consider replacing it with a TF-Pro Salt from tftestkits.net
The TF-Pro Salt includes all needed test and the electronic stirring device.

The K-1766 salt test isn't critical for the SLAM Process
It is recommended that the SWG is off or set to 0% during the entire SLAM.

In your "Account details" set your correct location. This is important as we taylor our advice based on location.

 

[setsailsoon]

So I should suspend the SLAM until I get those test kits?

m,

Welcome to TFP! Yes, I would wait. Chlorine is expensive these days and if your CYA isn't known you can have a very tough time.

Chris

 

[mShark]

I've ordered the TF-Pro Salt kit. I snagged some ammonia test strips from a friend with an aquarium and I don't have ammonia eating up the chlorine. If I didn't know better from reading this forum I would have already declared victory and relaxed. The pool is cleaner than it has been in over a year, and the black mold spots are significantly improved.

The full story is I was near the decision to have the pool removed when the sand filter split open. I was tired of spending ridiculous amounts of money trying to keep the pool in good shape. We have had the pool for 31 years and it was an old pool when we moved into the house. It is susceptible to black mold because the plaster is degraded, and the pool store plan never really gets it under control. A $79 jug of black algae killer on top of getting a second mortgage to cover the tabs and shock, only to have to turn around and dump the water. I learned about salt water pools which led me to this site. I switched over to liquid bleach and started tossing in two gallons of chlorine at a time while scrubbing the walls and spots. I installed my new filter with sand as opposed to the filter balls that were recommended to me and thankful I did. I also installed the SWG at the same time, replacing all my above ground plumbing with fewer turns/restrictions.

I've been reading through this site as fast as I can when I'm not working on the pool and haven't yet found a suggestion on what to do with the bottled chemical soup I have on hand from years of trips to the pool store. Clarifiers, flocculants, algaecides, bags of cal-hypo and chlorine free shock take up a corner of my storage shed and I need to get rid of them.

 

[mShark]

Last night the FC dropped 0.5 ppm which was a surprise this morning. I had left it at 4.5 about 8 pm when I suspended the SLAM and shutdown the pump while waiting on a test kit. This morning it was 4 ppm which is on the low side for a salt water pool. I turned on the SWG this morning as well to see what happens.

I have read multiple posts about cleaning the light niche and ladder. I can't remove my ladder but have scrubbed it good with a brush and got lots of slime from under the steps. I also found a lot of slime in the light niche. In my case the light was not installed so I am surprised the high levels of FC I have been using didn't clean it up. I need to remount a replacement LED fixture over the hole and will be working on a bracket to do that. Should I mount the light forward a bit so that water and hopefully chlorine has the opportunity to flow behind the fixture?

I've attached a couple of photos of my pool and the replumbed equipment.

 

[setsailsoon]

Last night the FC dropped 0.5 ppm which was a surprise this morning. I had left it at 4.5 about 8 pm when I suspended the SLAM and shutdown the pump while waiting on a test kit. This morning it was 4 ppm which is on the low side for a salt water pool. I turned on the SWG this morning as well to see what happens.

I have read multiple posts about cleaning the light niche and ladder. I can't remove my ladder but have scrubbed it good with a brush and got lots of slime from under the steps. I also found a lot of slime in the light niche. In my case the light was not installed so I am surprised the high levels of FC I have been using didn't clean it up. I need to remount a replacement LED fixture over the hole and will be working on a bracket to do that. Should I mount the light forward a bit so that water and hopefully chlorine has the opportunity to flow behind the fixture?

I've attached a couple of photos of my pool and the replumbed equipment.

M,
Not sure what you mean by "a bit forward". Are you thinking to use a spacer so it's more inside the pool? In cases like yours we always recommend you add about 4 ppm FC just to keep your pool "in check". There isn't really a good basis because TFP methods rely on simple tests, and addition of FC. Without a reliable measure of your CYA we really don't know how much FC you really need. But this practice does seem to work. The slime buildup indicates you had some excursions in the past and this happens in areas where you have limited circulation that allows this to take hold. Once the slime forms the outer layer "insulates" the inner area and allows it to survive and grow. Once you get your test kit and successfully perform a SLAM including brushing and sanitizing the hard to circulate areas you should be fine so long as you don't have excursions where FC can be consumed in difficult to circulate areas. If you have these areas it's a good idea to run a couple ppm above minimum which keeps the difficult to circulate areas from going below minimum.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris