Newbie - White Mold + So many questions

[vanellya]

Hello all,
Brand new here - pool was installed 3 weeks ago (I tried to update my signature to make this easier). I've been studying on here the past several months in preparation. I just ordered a Taylor-K 2006 (couldn't find the commercial one, and this one was hard enough to find here in Canada) but it hasn't come in yet. Past couple weeks have been ok, added shock once, one week in, as well as some Muriatic Acid and Aqua-Cal. Been checking using test strips (I am finding these to be useless?) and once weekly at the pool store. However today, my water was looking slightly cloudy and I saw these white, tissue-like floaties everywhere (kept trying to remove, to no avail). A google search suggested that this is white mold? Took the water to the pool store and readings were as such:
FC - 0.21
TC - 0.21
CC - 0
pH - 7.5
Hardness - 210
Alkalinity (w/stabilizer correction) - 101
CYA -26
Copper - 0.1
Iron - 1
Phosphate - 1286 (has been this way since day 1)
Salt - 2800 (my app says it is 4050 - discrepancy with pool store and app also since day 1)

I have had my salt cell running at 50%, but have put it to superchlorinate x 24 hours twice after larger events. Today, I changed that to 75%.
Pool store told me to add 1000 grams of shock, and 685g of Stabilizer (in the skimmer). I did this a little while ago. I have also vacuumed and brushed the pool.
I'm super worried about the floaties and not sure what else I should be doing in the meantime. There is so much debris and I keep removing it and more appears.

The pool company put the pump to run at 2650rpm on a schedule of 8am-8am - so... 24 hours a day.

I feel clueless and like I don't know what I'm doing. SOS.

If you made it this far, you get an award.

TIA
Pics below

 

[HermanTX]

Welcome to TFP.
Once you get your K2006 kit, please run a full set of tests and post.
Your SWCG is great at maintaining FC but it is best to use Liquid Chlorine (not granular shock) to raise your FC quickly. If your CYA of 30 (round up to next highest decade number), then you need a FC of above 3ppm with a SWCG. Also you should raise your CYA to 70 per the FC/CYA Levels. This helps protect your FC because your SWCG only puts out a small amount of FC per minute of it operating - so a low CYA can allow the UV (Sun) to deplete your FC too quickly.
You may have Algae setting in. Need to avoid that. EDIT - a cloudy water indicates of algae coming in. Need to raise FC ASAP.

Your VS pump should not run constantly at 2600rpm. That defeats the purpose of the variable speed. You should run the VS pump at the. Lowest rpm that still operates the SWCG. Many on the forum have this in the 1500-1800 rpm range. You can test this by lowering your speed and increase until the flow switch closes to turn on the SWCG. Then add 200 rpm as a safety margin.

Only run your VS pump at higher speeds such for skimming, or heater use, etc. Activities that warranty higher flowrates.

You should test for salt and ensure that is in proper range for your SWCG. There are sometime differences of what the SWCG reads, what your salt Test reads. Need to get the SWCG to be happy and operate properly while you have your pump running.

Hope this helps you get started.

 

[vanellya]

Welcome to TFP.
Once you get your K2006 kit, please run a full set of tests and post.
Your SWCG is great at maintaining FC but it is best to use Liquid Chlorine (not granular shock) to raise your FC quickly. If your CYA of 30 (round up to next highest decade number), then you need a FC of above 3ppm with a SWCG. Also you should raise your CYA to 70 per the FC/CYA Levels. This helps protect your FC because your SWCG only puts out a small amount of FC per minute of it operating - so a low CYA can allow the UV (Sun) to deplete your FC too quickly.
You may have Algae setting in. Need to avoid that. EDIT - a cloudy water indicates of algae coming in. Need to raise FC ASAP.

Your VS pump should not run constantly at 2600rpm. That defeats the purpose of the variable speed. You should run the VS pump at the. Lowest rpm that still operates the SWCG. Many on the forum have this in the 1500-1800 rpm range. You can test this by lowering your speed and increase until the flow switch closes to turn on the SWCG. Then add 200 rpm as a safety margin.

Only run your VS pump at higher speeds such for skimming, or heater use, etc. Activities that warranty higher flowrates.

You should test for salt and ensure that is in proper range for your SWCG. There are sometime differences of what the SWCG reads, what your salt Test reads. Need to get the SWCG to be happy and operate properly while you have your pump running.

Hope this helps you get started.

Thank you so much for reading and responding. At this point, I've shocked and added the CYA to the skimmer sock. Should I go to the pool store again tomorrow and retest? How do I know how much liquid chlorine I should add and can I add that at any point in the day?

The water isn't so much cloudy, but there are a million floating white things and I can't remove them fast enough before they come back. This has only been happening today. I'm feeling so stressed out about this and I'm worried I'm not doing enough to handle it.

How do I test for salt other than taking it to the store and/or seeing what the number shows on the app? Is It wise to keep the chlorinator at 75%? My kit likely will take a week to come in.

 

[HermanTX]

For 13000 gal pool, 10% liquid chlorine - 1 gal will raise FC by 7.7ppm or half gallon (64 oz) will raise by 3.8ppm.
Do you have PoolMath app? This can tell you specifically how much to add based on your pool volume and type of chemical you are using.

tell me more about the white stuff. If you squish it what does it do? Does it change colors? It is like jelly? Is it coming from a return? Does it float or sink?

there is a Taylor salt test K1766 but that may be hard to get obtain in Canada. That is the best method to test for salt.

Maybe @mknauss can have input on the “white thingys”

 

[vanellya]

For 13000 gal pool, 10% liquid chlorine - 1 gal will raise FC by 7.7ppm or half gallon (64 oz) will raise by 3.8ppm.
Do you have PoolMath app? This can tell you specifically how much to add based on your pool volume and type of chemical you are using.

tell me more about the white stuff. If you squish it what does it do? Does it change colors? It is like jelly? Is it coming from a return? Does it float or sink?

there is a Taylor salt test K1766 but that may be hard to get obtain in Canada. That is the best method to test for salt.

Maybe @mknauss can have input on the “white thingys”

Ok I will download the pool math app and maybe just add more chlorine again today to try and eradicate this floaty issue.
The floaty things (I tried to put a pic in my original post but it is hard to tell) look like wet torn up tissue floating around. More at the top of the pool, not so much at the bottom. Based off that description Google told me it was white water mold? It was rampant all day yesterday. I'm hoping today after shocking it, that it has subsided a bit.
I'm also wondering if my skimmer is even working properly because I had to manually skim it all out, and I don't notice that there is really anything in the skimmer basket or that insects etc are being sucked in. I tried tinkering with it late last night as I noticed the skimmer basket didn't even really have water in it. I took out and reinstalled the weir door and I hope I fixed it but how can I tell if I actually did?

 

[vanellya]

After a sleepless night and tinkering with the skimmer door last night, I woke up to a clear pool, not a single floating thing or insect. I believe the skimmer door was likely installed improperly not allowing the skimmer to actually... skim. So i think fixing that, along with that mega dose of shock, helped clear the pool. I think I'll still add some liquid chlorine just to be safe. Hoping my test kit comes in quick.. I don't need this type of stress! Lol

 

[Britali]

An FC of .21 is SUPER dangerously low…you need to get liquid chlorine in there now. Download the pool math app (or use the pool math web page) to find out how much liquid chlorine you need to add to get it up to 5ppm. Sounds like you may have an algae outbreak because it is as if your SWG is not running with such low FC. Maintain at least 5ppm FC until your test kit comes in.

 

[HermanTX]

Can you post 3 pictures of your equipment pad. 1 as overview, 2 showing the suction side plumbing into the pump and 3 showing the return side plumbing after your heater & SWCG Leading back to the pool.

How many skimmers do you have? Usually 1 or 2. If 2, are they plumbed together on 1 line or are they independently plumbed from each skimmer to the equipment pad?

Do you have a main drain?

How many returns do you have to the pool?

Please read the following. Although this happens in plaster pools it could be from your tile area above any vinyl lining.

Efflorescence - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[HermanTX]

The floaty things (I tried to put a pic in my original post but it is hard to tell) look like wet torn up tissue floating around. More at the top of the pool, not so much at the bottom. Based off that description Google told me it was white water mold? It was rampant all day yesterday. I'm hoping today after shocking it, that it has subsided a bit.

My google search found the following
“White water mould is a fungus that can form in a swimming pool. The mould takes on a white, mucus or torn up tissue-like appearance. The mould is not harmful to humans, but it is unsightly and can clog your equipment.

The mould will deplete the oxidiser levels of the pool. It can be highly resilient to both chlorine and bromine, which can usually work wonders when deep cleaning swimming pools.

This resistance to chemicals will make the task of treating white water mould difficult. Recontamination can easily be initiated even after the mould has been removed, which is why working to prevent the issue from development is crucial.

It is worth noting that UV rays are highly effective in killing white water mould; indoor pools are much more prone to developing the mould in comparison to outdoor pools.”

So cleaning your filter is critical if that is where your Mould has been captured since repairing your weir door. It states that sunlight is helpful to remove Mould do hopefully you have a couple of sunny days. Completely wash down your filter grids in an area that is not close to the pool to avoid re-contamination.
I do think it is critical to maintain your FC at 5ppm or higher. Also use Liquid Chlorine as that is the fastest action to raise FC.
Again, your SWCG should be set to maintain any daily FC loss.

You may want to read Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and perform this overnight to ensure you do not have any other algae that is consuming your FC.

Test your CYA again since you added more stabilizer. I would run your VS pump at 2500rpm for a couple of hours to ensure good mixing.

 

[mknauss]

Maybe @mknauss can have input on the “white thingys”

As you found out, that is white water mold.
Follow the SLAM Process

 

[vanellya]

An FC of .21 is SUPER dangerously low…you need to get liquid chlorine in there now. Download the pool math app (or use the pool math web page) to find out how much liquid chlorine you need to add to get it up to 5ppm. Sounds like you may have an algae outbreak because it is as if your SWG is not running with such low FC. Maintain at least 5ppm FC until your test kit comes in.

I'll go to the pool store again today to test and I'll add some liquid chlorine with pool math

 

[vanellya]

Can you post 3 pictures of your equipment pad. 1 as overview, 2 showing the suction side plumbing into the pump and 3 showing the return side plumbing after your heater & SWCG Leading back to the pool.

How many skimmers do you have? Usually 1 or 2. If 2, are they plumbed together on 1 line or are they independently plumbed from each skimmer to the equipment pad?

Do you have a main drain?

How many returns do you have to the pool?

Please read the following. Although this happens in plaster pools it could be from your tile area above any vinyl lining.

Efflorescence - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

No main drain, one skimmer and two other sucker things that catch hair. I also have auto fill. Here are some pictures:

After vacuuming this morning there are still some floatie but much less than before. Heading to pool store now to check levels

 

[mknauss]

No real reason to go to the pool store. Simply add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each day until you get your proper test kit.

 

[vanellya]

No real reason to go to the pool store. Simply add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each day until you get your proper test kit.

But don't I need to know what my new fc and cya are to calculate off that?

 

[vanellya]

Also can I just add that right away or do I need to wait until night time again?

 

[mknauss]

But don't I need to know what my new fc and cya are to calculate off that?

When you get your test kit, you will test for those.

Also can I just add that right away or do I need to wait until night time again?

When adding blind, it is best to add in the evening.

 

[vanellya]

So FC is up to 6.28, but CYA isn't up by much. Also, my app is telling me that my salt is 4100 but the pool store consistently shows 2800-2900. I can't understand why there is such a discrepancy. Should I add a bag of salt? I'm guessing I shouldn't add any more FC since it is over 6? Also no one at the pool store has ever heard of white water mold

 

[HermanTX]

No main drain, one skimmer and two other sucker things that catch hair. I also have auto fill. Here are some pictures:

After vacuuming this morning there are still some floatie but much less than before. Heading to pool store now to check levels

Thanks for the pictures. If you want more skimming action you can turn your handle on the suction valve to 100% open on skimmer and 0% on wall suctions. The word “OFF” would facing the wall suction pipe. You can also incrementally move the handle to a position such as 80% open to skimmer and 20% open to wall suction - this puts most suction to the skimmer with some still pulling from the wall suction pipes.

 

[HermanTX]

So FC is up to 6.28, but CYA isn't up by much. Also, my app is telling me that my salt is 4100 but the pool store consistently shows 2800-2900. I can't understand why there is such a discrepancy. Should I add a bag of salt? I'm guessing I shouldn't add any more FC since it is over 6? Also no one at the pool store has ever heard of white water mold

If you SWCG is happy - it is working and producing Chlorine - I would not mess with salt. I do suggest you try to get the Taylor salt test kit. You should test later in the day again (pool store if that is all that is available) to verify that your SWCG is keeping up. If you are over 6ppm then you want your SWCG to replace your daily lost of FC.

 

[vanellya]

Thanks for the pictures. If you want more skimming action you can turn your handle on the suction valve to 100% open on skimmer and 0% on wall suctions. The word “OFF” would facing the wall suction pipe. You can also incrementally move the handle to a position such as 80% open to skimmer and 20% open to wall suction - this puts most suction to the skimmer with some still pulling from the wall suction pipes.

Your skimmer idea is genius! Thank you for that and for helping me so much. It means a lot. I will pool store test again tomorrow and see what of the FC held up. Is the CYA of 35 ok? Tomorrow when I test, if FC is over 6 then that means my SWG is keeping up?