Newbie: Time to fix this green pool

[idle_furiouso]

Background:
We bought a house ~4 months ago. It came with a pool, but neither of us know a single thing about maintaining a pool. We are renovating this home and aren't on site every day (but we can be!) so we immediately hired a pool company to handle things for us in the mean time. We are paying them $255/mo for weekly service and it's $200 per service call (max 1 hr on site). Ouch. We ended up with a green pool about over a month ago and it's still green! They are still servicing it 1x a week in this state. I'm pretty annoyed and I am now of the mindset: Let's just do this ourselves, why are we paying them for a green pool?!

The Future:
We will be renovating the entire pool (and equipment?), but that's later, maybe 6 months down the road.

The Now:
I want to learn how to properly take care of the pool. I know it starts with learning the equipment. I've already been reading a lot on here and continue to do so while I wait for the test kit (K-2006C) to arrive (tomorrow!) so I can start SLAM. I understand I need to start with assessing the current state of affairs, but I have NO idea how to estimate the # gallons in this darn pool which appears is needed by the handy calculator. The last assessment from our pool service company: "need new laterals and a sand change. The filter needs help." OK, maybe so, maybe not, hard to trust a company in this current state. Where should I start? With the (sand) filter? Backwash and deep clean it? SLAMing? Both? Other? Does the approach matter given that we plan a large renovation of the pool (and surrounding area)? Help! Please and thank you.

The State of Affairs (covers eyes):

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Green water ... we can help. Having a good test kit on the way is already a plus. Yes, definitely get VERY familiar with the SLAM Process page. That will certainly help. We can also help with the equipment, so don't worry too much yet, and certainly don't take the pool service word for it. Soon I suspect you'll cut the cord anyway. Some things to consider now:
- Read the SLAM Process
- Bookmark our Pool Care Basics
- Download the PoolMath
- Be familiar with the FC/CYA Levels
- Brush/sweep all you can to ensure there is no large debris sitting at the bottom. I suspect there is a lot of biofilm on the walls, so try to break that up now as well.
- Have you turned on the system yet at all? If not, do so to ensure there are no visible leaks. If you have questions about the equipment, we can help.
- Look around for any old pool chemicals the previous owners may have left behind. It might give us clues on what to expect.
- Liquid chlorine is your friend. It is the primary agent for the SLAM and beyond. Start shopping around for gallons at places like Walmart, Home depot, etc.
- Stay out of the pool store. With your own K-2006C, there is no need to be there.
- You may need some granular stabilizer for the CYA. I get the 4 lb bags at Walmart, but other stores have it as well.
- Your two most commonly used chemicals will be liquid chlorine and muriatic acid (to control the pH). Store the chlorine someplace dry/cool like a laundry room. Keep the acid outside and away from pets, kids, and anything metal.
- Be advised you "might" need to exchange some water. Bottles of chlorine add-up fast now, and there's no telling what the previous owners dumped in there. A partial water exchange might also help the SLAM, but we can go over that more later.

Once you get the kit, post your results as follows:

FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH

For now, just add one gallon of liquid chlorine to the pool each day. If the pump isn't moving water yet, brush it around really well. We'll coach you form there. No worries.

 

[idle_furiouso]

Thank you, thank you. This is reassuring.

> Brush/sweep all you can to ensure there is no large debris sitting at the bottom
I can do that. What's the best tool for this? I know there is some equipment hanging around (skimmer net, etc), but I haven't taken a close look and I want to make sure I have what I need. There is a robot running, but I'm guessing that alone isn't going to do the trick and needs to be emptied/cleaned out as well. (How often??)

> Have you turned on the system yet at all? If not, do so to ensure there are no visible leaks. If you have questions about the equipment, we can help.
So the system is running. But have I personally ever turned it on? No. Do I know where the power button even is? No. I know there is a pump basket somewhere that needs to be cleared/cleaned out. Do I know where that is? No. (Nor how to open it). Ha, man I sound ridiculous. Forgive me, I'm from the Midwest where pools are way less common so this is very foreign concept to me. The good news is: by day, I'm a programmer, which tells me I should be able to figure this out.

Other things:
* Do I need to know how many gallons of water we have in pool? How can I best estimate this? I could measure (roughly) the width and height, but I have NO idea the depth (nor can I really see anything). Seems like this is needed for all calculations.
* I did quite a bit reading/youtubing about sand filters, and feel like I _could_ backwash the filter successfully if that is needed. Not sure if there is a backwash hose handy though (can I get one of those at Walmart too?). Also, it seems I need to know the clean filter pressure first (which, I don't of course) to determine if that is necessary. Regardless, the reading seems high (23 PSI) compared to what should be expected, right?
* This is the pump, right? I'm guessing this is were I will find the the basket that I should be emptying that I circled?


Again, thank you for your help! According to Amazon my kit won't get here until "after 10pm", so I plan to use today to stock up on some of this supplies/equipment and get to scrubbing.

 

[Texas Splash]

Good morning. Okay, let me see if I can address all your questions. Ha ha.

- For brushing the pool, a standard pool brush. There are many on Amazon and local pool stores. They also come in nylon, steel, and 50/50 bristles. Since you have a plaster, I would go full steel or 50/50.
- Are you using a water-powered cleaner that receives water pressure from the Polaris booster pump, or is it a true electric robot?
- The system is running - good. If you see no forms of automation (i.e. programming panel) then I suspect you simply turn the pumps on manually by a small switch at the rear of the pumps. That's how mine are because I don't use automation. But if you see any other pool-related panels somewhere, post pics and we can help you.
- Yes, the pump you have circled is your main pool pump. The other one (Polaris) is for a water-powered Polaris cleaner. Periodically you need to turn the system off to clean that "pump strainer pot basket" under the clear lid. When you turn the pumps off and before you remove that clear lid, you need to close the 3-way valves that allow after to flow to and from the pad. I'll post a pic below to help illustrate. Also important, under that clear lid is a rubber O-ring that keeps air from getting sucked "in". Whenever you remove that lid, be sure that O-ring has a nice coating of pool silicone lube - never petroleum jelly. Once you empty the pump pot basket and make sure te O-ring is lubed, put the lid back on, open any valves you closed earlier, and turn the system back on.
- Poolside there is at least one skimmer that catches surface debris. Check that at least once each day, sometimes more, for critters, leaves, etc. There should be a skimmer sock in there to help catch the finer stuff. If you don't know what a skimmer sock is, just search on Amazon and you'll see.
- You have a sand filter with a plunger/slide valve. You do not have a multiport valve (MPV). This means you can only be in FILTER or BACKWASH modes. You do not have a recirculate, rinse, or winterizing setting. You've probably never done a backwash before. I'll post some links below to help and I encourage you to checkout some YouTube videos in advance. But basically you'll turn the pump off (always pump off when changing filter settings), the push/pull the slide valve for backwash. Once the water is clear you go back to filter. Remember, pump OFF when changing those settings.
- For pool gallons, try using our PoolMath page. There's a feature near the lower part that can get you in the ballpark. There are also calculators online. Just do your best. When you finally do have the pool re-worked, you can check your water meter before and after fill and know exactly how many gallons.
- We clean filters when the pressure increases by about 25% from the clean pressure. It doesn't take much on the scale of the gauge, maybe 5-10 psi for most. So when you finally get the courage to do a backwash, check the new psi reading once you are done, then take note of what a 25% increase would be so you know when to do the next backwash.

I know that's a lot of info, but trust me, you'll get it in time. Just read stuff, then go back and re-read it again once you've touched all the parts of your pool. Come back and ask questions. Watch some YouTube videos and you'll be fine.

 

[Texas Splash]

Some stuff to help you along.

Pump Basics: a Swimming Pool Pump Guide

Which pool pump should you buy? Discover the factors to consider when choosing a pump for your swimming pool and make an informed decision.

www.troublefreepool.com

Routine Pump/Filter Maintenance

A working Filter and pump are vital parts for your pool. Read our artiticle on how to clean your filter & other Pool Maintenance Tips.

www.troublefreepool.com

Maintenance and Cleaning of Pool Filters

Maintaining your swimming pool filter system is important. Learn how to clean and maintain your pool filter at low cost & enjoy a Trouble Free Pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Texas Splash]

 

[Texas Splash]

 

[Texas Splash]

 

[idle_furiouso]

Thank for you all the info. I'll be reading/watching it over the next couple days. I don't have pool kit yet, but the pool service company stopped by and these were the readings they shared in case it is helpful:

READINGS
0 ppm free chlorine
0 ppm total chlorine
8.0 pH
70 ppm total alkalinity
70 ppm cyanuric acid

CHEMICALS ADDED
8 lbs shock
1 gal pH ↓
36 Oz algae complete​

 

[idle_furiouso]

OH! My kit just arrived. I'm reading up on how to perform the tests. Given that the pool tech just shocked it, I'm guessing I should use a 10mL sample? What's the general rule of thumb regarding 25mL vs 10mL sample?

 

[Texas Splash]

I should use a 10mL sample?

Yes. 10 ml water sample size with ONE generous scoop of powder. Add drops while mixing until clear. Divide total number of drops in half for final FC. Example: 20 drops to clear equals an FC of 10.

 

[Texas Splash]

Just in case you need it (below). We'll be watching for
FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH

Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[idle_furiouso]

Measurements taken yesterday evening:

FC - 6 ppm
CC - 1 ppm
CYA - 38 ppm
PH - 8.0
TA - 40
CH - 600 1500*

I think I did these right. A note about measuring FC/CC, when I was adding drops to turn it from pink to clear - it never got "clear" it was always just cloudy white. Also, I would get it to turn cloud white and then read instructions about next step and it would slowly start to be turning back to light pink. Does that mean I needed more drops? Or is that expected?

* CH, last night when I was making these calculations I think I made a mistake in the calculation of CH and multiplied drops by 10 and not 25 (for 10mL sample). My new number is 1500. Um, is this right?

 

[idle_furiouso]

I want to make sure I understand this correctly. I need to be checking/treating the pool 2-3x / day right now maintaining a SLAM FC level. I believe that is 16 in my case. Because CYA level 40 --> Slam Level 16. In order to ensure I'm maintaining FC Level of 16, can I just do the FC test or should I also be doing the CYA test every time as well? How frequent should I be doing the other tests?

 

[Texas Splash]

When you are using the 10 ml water sample size for the CH test, you mix and add the R-0012 drops until it turns a light baby blue color, then multiply the result by 25.

For the TA test, I like to describe the final color as a bright Barbie pink, but it can vary slightly. The important thing is to ensure you add the R-009 drops until the color no longer changes. Also, with a newt test kit, the TA bottles sometimes develop static electricity. Have a damp paper towel nearby and wipe the TA bottle after every couple drops to ensure you are getting full droplets.

For the FC test, once you get your FC result, it's done unless you are going right into the CC portion. If you let the solution sit, it will always try to turn light pink again. Just ignore that.

 

[Texas Splash]

want to make sure I understand this correctly. I need to be checking/treating the pool 2-3x / day right now maintaining a SLAM FC level. I believe that is 16 in my case. Because CYA level 40 --> Slam Level 16. In order to ensure I'm maintaining FC Level of 16, can I just do the FC test or should I also be doing the CYA test every time as well? How frequent should I be doing the other tests?

You understand correctly. During the SLAM, focus on the FC the most. Unless you change water or have a sand/DE filter that requires a lot of backwashing, the CYA should not change. When the FC is over 10 during a SLAM, the pH test becomes invalid which is why the instructions say to lower the pH to 7.2-7.5 before increasing the FC level.

Once you pass all 3 SLAM criteria, then you can begin to test and balance all of the other levels. Hope that helps.

 

[idle_furiouso]

Update:
Here are the logs of the last couple days. I felt like things were moving in the right direction.... but maybe too slowly? I've had to add more water into the pool, hot Texas weather (ya know), and I re-tested CYA and I suspect it's less than 30 because I could still see the black dot. I'm guessing I should proactively add some stabilizer? Also, the biggest question I have is, I am GUESSING how many gallons our pool is. I have no idea. I put 30,000 gal into the calculator. It seems like I'm adding more chlorine than the calculator has been calling for because I'm eager to get to that SLAM level (16) and I'm still not getting there. Is it because my gallons are incorrect or because the CYA is low?

Also, when brushing I stir up a whole bunch of stuff but where is it going? It just settles for me to stir up again. I want to vacuum up this gunk so it's out of the water for good. The big pool already has the floor cleaner, but does not appear to be enough, nor does it help out with the hot tub.. Any recommendations here for vacuuming up the loose algae???

 

[Texas Splash]

I'm guessing I should proactively add some stabilizer?

Yes. You need at least 30 for sure.

Is it because my gallons are incorrect or because the CYA is low?

With a CYA of 30 (yours may be lower) the SLAM FC level is 12. Definitely add some stabilizer. If you go over 30 to a new CYA of 40, then your new SLAM FC level would be 16. Test somewhat frequently at first. The pool looks like it has a lot of junk to process and it's eating up chlorine fast. The better you hold the FC level the more effective the SLAM will be.

Any recommendations here for vacuuming up the loose algae?

Do you have an old school manual vacuum? That would work.

 

[idle_furiouso]

Yes. You need at least 30 for sure.

Since I have no idea how many gallons I have, I'm guessing 3 lbs might get me in the ball park?

Do you have an old school manual vacuum? That would work.

I'm not aware of an old school manual vacuum anywhere that I have access to. Can you provide a link to an example?

The pool looks like it has a lot of junk to process and it's eating up chlorine fast.

In the pics from previous post, the hot tub is super cloudy because I just brushed and re-stirred everything up.

I feel like I should probably backwash the filter in the next day or two. I can't imagine what has accumulated in there. I feel like I'm the blind leading the blind just going through the motions and hoping for the best right now...

I really appreciate your help!!!!

 

[Texas Splash]

Since I have no idea how many gallons I have, I'm guessing 3 lbs might get me in the ball park?

That's a fair estimate. If you overshoot a little, it's not the end of the world. Just a little higher FC level.

I'm not aware of an old school manual vacuum anywhere that I have access to. Can you provide a link to an example?

Just a vacuum hose that goes directly into the skimmer hole and a vacuum head at the other end. I'll post an old pic of mine.

I feel like I should probably backwash the filter in the next day or two.

Remember the 25% rule. After you backwash, make note of the new clean pressure. Then when it increases by 25% you know that's when you need to do another backwash.