Newbie: Please help me with sequencing of chemical corrections

[Johnbednarski]

Hello: First post here! This is a fantastic and very helpful site for folks like me. I'm trying to take matters into my own hands but am a little leery of messing up the sequencing of my water adjustments, as I get the knack of the totally cool BBB method.

I've used my new Taylor K-2006 for the first time today. Thank you for recommending this product! It is a fantastic way to take charge of my pool management

Results 5/19: TC 0 FC 0 pH 8 or more TA 150 CYA 0.

Just because I was a little leery of my first go-round with Taylor, I thought I'd bounce my results off of some Clorox Smart Strips with Smart Phone interpretation I purchased this season ...

Results 5/19 via Smart Strip: TC 0 FC 0 pH 7.8 TA 180 CYA 0.

Based on my pool volume and the online Pool Calculator tool, I need to address the following:
1) The high pH with muriatic acid
2) The zero CYA with adding stabilizer
3) The zero chlorine with bleach

I can follow the pool calculator recommended doses but am not quite certain if it matters which chemicals I add first, and how much time to wait between dosing. Could I please ask you for a little hand-holding on that? thanks everyone - much appreciated! -- John B

 

[drharris]

CYA takes awhile to dissolve, so go ahead and get some of that going (in socks hanging over the returns), could take a few days. Then get pH down, wait maybe 10 minutes and then do bleach. As long as you're putting in liquid chemicals, you really don't have to wait long periods of time. I like to wait a bit between acid and bleach, though, because they do react with each other. It's probably never an issue at pool concentration levels though.

If this pool has sat in this condition for some time, be prepared for major FC loss. If it returns to zero quickly, you might have some issues that need you to SLAM. So getting your pH in order first would be advantageous so you can start SLAMing right away if needed.

 

[tim5055]

Welcome to TFP!!

These additions can be made almost simultaneously.

First, how does the water look? Clear, green, a swamp?

If clear I recommend the following (with the pump running)

Add chlorine to get to FC 2 using PoolMath by pouring slowly in front of all returns. Do not pour it in the skimmer. We don't track TC, just FC & CC.

Measure the amount of granular CYA you will need to get to 30 using PoolMath. Place this in an old sock, I'm partial to old white athletic socks but any will do. You just don';t want holes that will allow the granules to pour out. Either suspend this sock in front of a return, or place it in a a skimmer if it will not block the flow of water..

Now, move on to pH. Assume 8 (it may be higher) and use PoolMath to calculate how much muratic acid you will need to get to 7.4. Now, I personally don't measure acid, in my mind it's just another possibility to spill it. I pour & estimate it. Then I retest 30 minutes later. Eventually you will start skipping the re-test. Now, when adding acid - safety first. Wear old clothes and eye protection. I like to get in front of a return on my hands & knees and splash a little water on the pool deck. Then open the acid bottle and partially submerge it in the water. Tilt the bottle to pour the acid in at close to water level, but don't let the bottle get submerged. I don't measure because it's an additional step for me to spill the stuff. Remove the bottle from the water and set it down in the puddle on the pool deck while you replace the cap. Try not to breathe the fumes.. Guess a little low on amount you need, then test again after it circulates well. You can always add more.

If the water is green or a swamp my recommendations will change a little.

 

[Johnbednarski]

Thank you for your prompt replies!

I'm sorry that I didn't think to mention the quality of the water. It is crystal clear, sparkling, 60 degrees after a New England warmup over the past few days.

I don't have any CYA on hand right now, but I do have chlorine and I do have muriatic acid. Should I start with those pieces now, and then head to the store?

 

[Richard320]

Thank you for your prompt replies!

I'm sorry that I didn't think to mention the quality of the water. It is crystal clear, sparkling, 60 degrees after a New England warmup over the past few days.

I don't have any CYA on hand right now, but I do have chlorine and I do have muriatic acid. Should I start with those pieces now, and then head to the store?

Yes. Target 4 on FC and 7.4 on pH. The CYA is mildly acidic so you want to leave it a little room to work.

 

[Johnbednarski]

Thanks everyone. Yesterday I added 1 gallon of 8.25% bleach and around a half gallon of muriatic acid. Vacuumed this afternoon and checked numbers: pH 7.2 FC 4 CC 0.5 TA 110. I did not check CYA. I wasn't able to get CYA yesterday but remembered I had some chlorine pucks with conditioner. I added them to my chorine dispenser as I felt this would be an OK short term approach, until I'm able to get some CYA.

Based on pH reading I added 12 oz borax. Pool calculator advised double that, but I've had trouble with over treating last year (based on pool chem vendor readings). Can you tell me if you think I'm on the right path at this point, pending getting some CYA and jettisoning the pucks? Thanks everyone.

 

[tim5055]

Moving in the right direction, but pucks are not the way to establish CYA. They can help fine tune it, but you need more now. Each puck only adds 1.7ppm CYA to your 20,000 gallon pool.