Newbie-ish Here. Test Results Help

B_Michaels

Member
Jul 12, 2024
8
Phoenix, AZ
Pool Size
23000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hi all, long-time listener, first-time caller. I learn so much from you guys, so thank you in advance!

I have the TFP Test Kit with Smart Stir. Here are my test results as of 7:15pm (sun below the trees and not on the pool).

Pool: 24,000 gallons, pebbie tech, SWG

FC: 5
pH: 8 (per poolmath, added about 2 quarts of Muriatic Acid just now)
TA: 130 (it's been high all summer!)
CYA: 50 (I need to add some stabilizer or conditioner)
CH: 580 (has been high all summer)
Salt: 4400
Temp: 90 degrees
CSI: 0.73!!!! Dang!

I am noticing white flakes in the pool and especially the spa (which waterfalls into the pool when pump is on) since there isn't a lot of water movement this time of year. I plan to clean the SWG tomorrow morning.

What do I need to do to get these levels in line? Feel like I'm constantly adding Muriatic Acid and Chlorine. But the CSI is way too Dang high!

Thank you guys!
 
Ok, thank you. I added 81oz of Muriatic Acid last night per the app. That should lower pH and then aerating this morning with the water feature to raise pH so that I can add more MA to try and get this TA down. It’s stubborn as heck! I just can’t believe how much MA I’ve had to add this summer.
 
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Good question! I’m not quite sure. How do I find out? I suppose I can put some in a bucket and then test with the test kit. I have an auto filler but I turned that off for a few days while I try to Lowe me TA. I ran out of MA so I need to grab more this morning.
 
Just pull a sample from the tap water you use to top off.

Is your fill line connected to a water softener. If not, you might want to test CH as well. Since CH doesn't evaporate, each time you top off, CH increases.
 
Your CH test results indicates you're using a 25 mL sample. You really don't need that type of precision for CH. Just use a 10 mL sample to conserve reagents.

In the link below, scroll down to CH test.

 
That seems a bit high for tap water TA but it is possible. With new test kits, you need to wipe the tip of the r0009 reagent with a damp rag between each drop. After several tests, this static charge should dissipate. This is to remove a possible static electricity charge. On the link I provided for testing, click on the TA test for more info.
 
With fill water TA of 200. You will be battling TA.

Here is a good link for you...

 

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Thanks @PoolStored. I read your article. I have fountains that create a lot of bubbles.

I will test the sample water again and wipe off the rip. I used a reagent that I’ve used for a year now, so it isn’t new but will wipe off anyway. I lowered pH to 7.0 and will aerate to increase it so I can keep lowering TA today and tomorrow.

Thank you guys so much!
 
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So, an update from the weekend of pool watching and adjusting, lol

Have added more than 2 gallons of MA to the pool (over time of course) and aerated each time. I’m still aerating today to get the pH up but here is how the test results show at 2:20p

pH: 7.2
FC: 2.2 (will increase when I get the pH and TA under control??)
TA: 80 (way down from 130 on Friday!)
CYA: 80
Temp: 92 degrees

Based on the Pool Math app, once I get the pH around 7.6 and my TA about 75, then my CSI will go to like -.03.

So, I’ll leave my aerator on this afternoon and test it again this evening. I have turned off my auto filler because of the extremely high TA until I get it under control. Will have to turn it back on eventually….
 
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