Newb OB with BYOP in Buckeye AZ - pebble and tile touch up suggestions

[Newdude]

My thoughts are to add some chlorine to target FC of 6

2.5 FC is a Defcon 1, all hands on deck situation. For that matter, 6 is a Defcon 1, all hands on deck situation for me.

Does anyone have experience with how much pH rise (at least a rough range) that I might see from running the waterfall. I’m not sure what to expect for rise per hour or whatever.

No two (along with all your other unique things) are the same. Could be 2 hours, or 40.

Is there anything else recommended?

You're doing GREAT !!!!!

While I‘d like to let snoopy take a swim I think I’ll wait until day 30 that way I can count brushing the pool as one of my rotator cuff PT workouts!

You'll have 12 to 15 years to KICK yourself for using the robot too soon if it leaves marks. Hard. Because of 2 weeks. Just sayin.

 

[Schwimmbad]

@Newdude I REALLY appreciate your comments and feedback (along with everyone else who has contributed to my build thread). I know I wouldn’t have been as comfortable taking this on without the help and support of the TFP gurus and others in the community. I’ve spent so much time getting to this point.

Now that I am past the 14 day mark, is there some solid guidance on pump speed/run time between now and when I get to fire up the SWG at day 30.

I’ve had the pump running at 1,700 rpm’s 24/7 since it was filled on March 4th. I’ve read a few things about running it at the lowest speed to still skim, is that about it? This feels like a dumb question but is there a good way to tell if the skimmer is working “effectively”? Or is it just reduce the speed to some low starting point and observe over a few days and if it seems there is a bunch of junk on the surface that I didn’t typically see increase 100 rpm’s and observe again (or if it looks the same drop the rpm’s)? I just dropped it to 1,000 rpm’s and I still see a little swirling above the skimmer baskets and the skimmer doors bobbing and weaving.

Chemical wise, it took a bit over a day for pH to recover but now it seems I’ll be back in my routine of feeding my baby some acid daily. Will be glad when she isn’t such an acid lush!

By the way, I’ve only been dumping chlorine in for a few days and I’m already tired of picking up some jugs and pouring it in. I can’t wait to get the SWG on-line and dialing that thing in! I’m having enough fun play with acid every day.

 

[Newdude]

I’ve read a few things about running it at the lowest speed to still skim, is that about it?

Exactly it.

This feels like a dumb question but is there a good way to tell if the skimmer is working “effectively”?

How is that dumb ? Did you ever have a skimmer before ? C'mon now.

If the weir door is bobbing away, you're golden. If it's clearly working at 1000 RPMs, there isn't much benefit to go any lower. It's 90W or so.

And to find the SWG speed (heater, waterfalls, cleaner, etc etc etc) its the same process. Start low and increase 100 rpm until they work. Add 100 or 200 RPMs to account for the filter getting dirty and restricting flow a little, and thats your XYZ speed.

By the way, I’ve only been dumping chlorine in for a few days and I’m already tired of picking up a some jugs and pouring it in.

I have to source and lug for a week or two every spring until the water warms enough for the SWG to come on. My first spring with pool #2, it was an hour and a half adventure going to 3 stores. My one or two weeks is one or two weeks too many.

You're gonna LOVE the SWG. With one click, *poof*, more FC shows up in the pool later.

 

[Schwimmbad]

I’m now starting to look into the next steps to get the SWG up and running. I’ll continue on the bicarb startup path until Monday, that will be three weeks. Then I’ll have quite a bit of adjusting to do to get to the numbers recommended here.

Water Balance for SWGs

Saltwater pools are becoming more and more popular. We discuss How salt generators work and water balance tips for SWGs to run them.

www.troublefreepool.com

I did an oclt test (kinda just for fun) and I didn’t quite pass. FC was 6.5 at 8pm and dropped to 5 at 5am. I read FC should not drop by more than 1. Should I slam or maybe retest? Interesting note (at least to me) is I tested FC the evening after I did the oclt and FC dropped by the same amount.

 

[Newdude]

1. Should I slam or maybe retest?

I believe you want to wait to raise the FC with your new finish. Hang tight for someone who speaks plaster to confirm.

Interesting note (at least to me) is I tested FC the evening after I did the oclt and FC dropped by the same amount.

So you officially tested at 8pm, and had lost 1.5pm at 11pm, and none overnight?

Or you lost 1.5 overnight and 1.5 until the next evening ?

 

[ajw22]

It is best not to SLAM new plaster for 30 to 60 days to not bleach the color.

You had your FC up around 6 and then let it drop to 2.5. Get your FC up around 5-6 and keep it there. With a bit of algae in the pool check your FC two or three times a day and raise it back up. Run that way until the 60 day mark and then if you still fail the OCLT raise the FC up to SLAM level.

 

[Schwimmbad]

So you officially tested at 8pm, and had lost 1.5pm at 11pm, and none overnight?

Or you lost 1.5 overnight and 1.5 until the next evening ?

Lost 1.5 overnight (from 8pm to 5am) and lost another 1.5 over the next 14 hours of daylight (from 5am to 7pm). While I don’t really know what to expect, it seems I should have lost 1.5 (same as overnight) PLUS whatever I would lose from a sunny day.

It is best not to SLAM new plaster for 30 to 60 days to not bleach the color.

You had your FC up around 6 and then let it drop to 2.5. Get your FC up around 5-6 and keep it there. With a bit of algae in the pool check your FC two or three times a day and raise it back up. Run that way until the 60 day mark and then if you still fail the OCLT raise the FC up to SLAM level.

Thanks @ajw22. I won’t SLAM it. I thought I read you don’t want any algae when starting up the SWG which got me down this path. I can keep the FC up in the 5 to 6 range. Just tested it at 5 right now and added a couple cups of chlorine per poolmath. As I’m still not completely confident in my testing, I’ll do another OCLT tonight.

 

[ajw22]

I thought I read you don’t want any algae when starting up the SWG which got me down this path.

Depending on the amount of algae and the cell size and runtime the SWG may have trouble generating enough FC if you have algae in the water. So keep on testing and watch the FC level. Either increase the SWG % or runtime as necessary or if you get to 90% and 24/7 then supplement with liquid chlorine to maintain your desired FC level.

 

[Newdude]

. I thought I read you don’t want any algae when starting up the SWG

You don't want algae before you raise the CYA considerably for the SWG. Slam target is 40% of your CYA. A 12 at 30 CYA and a 28 at 70 CYA. The sun burns more off at higher levels so you fight 2 battles at 28. Once we're already at 70 CYA later, it is what it is, but the rec is to find out before and not after.

Adjusting 10 CYA won't really change the price of beer but always OCLT before raising it a bunch.


In this case, you'll be free to SLAM if needed once it's time for the SWG. Keeping the FC free and clear above min from now until then will ensure its a clear water SLAM (if needed) which always goes easier, no matter how bad the clear water SLAM is. Stopping exponential swamp growth is like catching a runaway train at that point. *Then* you have to filter it all out too.

 

[bdavis466]

Are you sure the testing is correct? Is the water cloudy? Was there ever not chlorine in the water?

 

[Schwimmbad]

Are you sure the testing is correct? Is the water cloudy? Was there ever not chlorine in the water?

Not confident yet with testing, water has been very clear so far, and always had pucks floating from day 1 until I pulled out the pucks (they had copper in them) and went to chlorine 4 days ago.

That’s why I plan to do another OCLT.

 

[Newdude]

Not confident yet with testing

I don't think we went over the tips yet.

*bottles go completely inverted
*use the gentlest of squeezes to let gravity make perfect / repeatable drops
*for FC it helps to pre squeeze the big bottle a little so it doesn't spurt at first.
*always rinse the vials and the bar well
*if a test seems off, ***slow it down** and rerun the test for confirmation.
*pet the smartstir. They like that and are good boys who deserve it.

 

[Schwimmbad]

I don't think we went over the tips yet.

*bottles go completely inverted
*use the gentlest of squeezes to let gravity make perfect / repeatable drops
*for FC it helps to pre squeeze the big bottle a little so it doesn't spurt at first.
*always rinse the vials and the bar well
*if a test seems off, ***slow it down** and rerun the test for confirmation.
*pet the smartstir. They like that and are good boys who deserve it.

Thanks @Newdude, will add those tips to my routine.

I haven’t done the pre squeeze, rerun the test, or pet the smart stir yet. Do you pet it until it purrs?

 

[Newdude]

rerun the test,

For real. 9 times out of 10, we are the problem when something seems off. We're in a rush thinking about 52 other things and/or multi tasking. When it ain't right, take a deep breath. Slow. It. Down. And start over.

 

[bdavis466]

I don't think you could have algae right now even if you tried so something isn't adding up.

With testing, being consistent with your methods is very important and this seems like testing error to me.

What's the water temperature?

 

[Schwimmbad]

I don't think you could have algae right now even if you tried so something isn't adding up.

With testing, being consistent with your methods is very important and this seems like testing error to me.

What's the water temperature?

I felt my testing might be suspect as well. We’ll see after I do the OCLT tonight.

Water temp was 66.

While I’m on the testing topic, I decided to test my autofill water which is plumbed from the water softener.
pH 8.3
TA 110
CH 0?
The CH test says it should turn red to indicate presence of calcium. So if it turns a shade of blue than no calcium? The first time I did the test it was a shade of purple. One drop of R-0012 turned it clear both times.

 

[Newdude]

Copied from Extended kit directions

The sample may turn purple during the test, or go to blue for a moment and then turn back to red/pink. This is called a "fading endpoint" and is caused by interference from metal ions. If this happens, do the test again, but this time add five drops of R-0012 before adding any R-0010 or R-0011L. Remember to count the initial five drops in the total.

 

[Schwimmbad]

FC was 7.5 last night at 7:30pm (ran test two times) and 6.5 this morning at 5am. Although I ran the FAS/DPD test three times this morning and got 6.0, 6.5, and 6.5.

 

[Newdude]

Keep an eye on the daytime loss. Remain free and clear above minimum at the low point, however you want to do it, be it a bunch of little adds or one daily dose.

Our hands are tied right now, but if it's still marginally on the fence at SWG / CYA raising time, an insurance SLAM would erase any concerns. One thing I've seen over and over here is that the rookies sit around coming up with excuses why they don't need to OCLT/SLAM and the pros SLAM first and ask questions later. One of them is gifted a swamp, and the other chuckles when the SLAM is over in a day or two because they kept the upper hand in the battle.

 

[Schwimmbad]

I kinda like that thinking, is there any harm in doing a SLAM around day 30? Other than just the little bit of cost?