New VS Motor - Help with Programming Time

JBW

Member
Jan 7, 2016
13
Knoxville, TN
I just got my new motor installed today and the info is already updated in my signature. I did upgrade the impeller to the 2610 as recommended by JamesW (thanks BTW!).

The current factory default settings are 4 hours at 3100 RPM, 4 hours at 2600 RMP, and 8 hours at 1600 RPM. I hired the same pool company that has been maintaining it for the last 8 years for the previous owner to open it up today, but I plan to be maintaining it myself from here on out. I am totally new at owning a pool and this will be my first pool season (I had the pool closed as soon as I moved into the house in December). Based on my pool size, what would be the recommended settings? I don't have a vacuum yet, but I will be purchasing the MX8.....I know it may be overkill for my pool, but I'm a sucker for nice things and I'd like something that would be able to get the walls when it can. So please also let me know what speed I should set the override to when I have the vacuum going.

I'm sure I've not provided enough information, so please tell me the information you need to provide good advice.

Thanks in advance!!
 

jblizzle

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 19, 2010
43,260
Tucson, AZ
Take a look at this article in Pool School: Determine Pump Run Time

You likely only need 4 or so hours of run time. And most of that can be at a low speed.

What kind of cleaner do you use?
Are you still using the chlorinator in your signature? A. We do not recommend that and B. They do not work well with varying speeds.
 

JBW

Member
Jan 7, 2016
13
Knoxville, TN
JB, I read that article yesterday, but it still doesn't thoroughly help out a total newbie like myself. I was hoping to get some instructions on what I should set the programming to (i.e. x RPM for x hours, then x RPM for x hours, and maybe x RPM while you're using the vacuum, etc).

The pool guys that installed the new motor and opened the pool up yesterday used tri-chlor 3" tablets....I'm not sure what kind. I was going to go to my local store to pick up some of the Tri-Chlor sticks to use or just buy some of the tablets online. In regards to the chlorinator, the guys placed the tablets in it yesterday and I had planned to use it. I can't seem to find anything online that backs up your claims of it not working well with a variable speed motor. Can you shed some light on that? Should I purchase a chlorine floater to add it to the pool instead? If so, what kind do you recommend?
 

jblizzle

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 19, 2010
43,260
Tucson, AZ
The speeds and times are very pool dependent. You need to run at a high enough speed that your cleaner and skimmer works well and run it long enough at that speed so that you keep your pool clean. If that is not enough runtime then you can run at a lower speed for a longer period of time.

There is no one-size-fits-all answer.

The chlorinator works by having moving water dissolving the tablets. If you're varying the flow rate then the rate at which they dissolve varies also which can make your chlorine additions inconsistent. We also do not recommend using trichlor tablets or sticks exclusively because the CYA builds up which will eventually lead to a green pool. Have you read much in Pool School yet about the methods we teach?
 

JBW

Member
Jan 7, 2016
13
Knoxville, TN
The chlorinator works by having moving water dissolving the tablets. If you're varying the flow rate then the rate at which they dissolve varies also which can make your chlorine additions inconsistent.
This definitely makes sense. Thanks for providing some insight. Do you recommend that I remove it altogether, or will it be OK to remain attached without anything in it?

Have you read much in Pool School yet about the methods we teach?
I've read some articles there in the past, but dove more in-depth this morning after reading your reply and looked at some other places online regarding using liquid chlorine....and you've talked me into it. I was under the impression that it added some unnecessary chemicals along with the chlorine and salt, but I suppose it's just pool-store-scare-tactics. I'll price around but I'll likely start using the 8.25% Clorox.

Since the guys added the Tri-chlor & shock yesterday, would it be OK to remove the tablets altogether and start using bleach immediately? I'll test the water this evening and provide some numbers tomorrow.
 

atttech-2

Bronze Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 24, 2015
1,185
Central Valley CA
I run my pump at 1100 RPM for a total of 5 hours a day split into 4 nearly even intervals. It is especially helpful in spring to have 4 opportunity's to skim before the pollen that gets into the pool has a chance to drop to the bottom. I run my cleaner 30 min a day at 2000 RPM but I have a booster pump not sure if the MX does or not. You will find that pucks are generally frowned upon on this forum for all but a few situations like vacations, mainly because they add other stuff most notably CYA. As CYA builds up it takes more and more chlorine to do the same job it was doing when you first filled the pool. Eventually the level gets so high you can't get enough chlorine in the water to keep agile out. The only way to fix the situation is to dump some water and start over. As for it not working well with varying speeds my guess is at best you will get different rates of chlorination for each speed at worst it may not chlorinate enough at low speeds.
 

jblizzle

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 19, 2010
43,260
Tucson, AZ
You can leave the chlorinator installed with nothing in it.

You could removed the tablets and start using bleach, or leave them in and also add bleach. Whether or not the tablets are causing an issue (like if your CYA is already too high) depends on your test results ;)
 

BuckeyeChris

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2014
816
Buckeye AZ
I have a 26x12.5 pool, almost 11k gallons. In the summer I had the pump run at 80% in the morning from 8-12, before it got too hot and to get a good skim before people might go swimming. Then at 30% from 7-10p so my nightly bleach additions would get well mixed.

In the winter, I have been fine with just 3 hours in the evening at 80%. I'd rather leaf-rake the bottom once a week than have the pump run more than it needs to. Plus, IMO, in a pool our size,bi don't want any robots or hoses taking valuable space. I have good circulation, so a brushing twice a week (5 minutes) and some as-needs leaf taking and I'm fine without cleaning machines in there.
 

JBW

Member
Jan 7, 2016
13
Knoxville, TN
Alright, well, I received some pretty negative readings last night so I'm going to have to replace some water:
  • FC = 1
  • TC = 2
  • pH = 6.8
  • CH = 775 :shock:
  • TA = 90
  • CYA = 75

I'm familiar with the pool calculator so I'm good to go there. I'll plan on draining about 60%, cleaning, and replacing tomorrow. Question though: I don't really need to do anything else until I get the CH and CYA levels back to normal right?
 

JBW

Member
Jan 7, 2016
13
Knoxville, TN
I have a 26x12.5 pool, almost 11k gallons. In the summer I had the pump run at 80% in the morning from 8-12, before it got too hot and to get a good skim before people might go swimming. Then at 30% from 7-10p so my nightly bleach additions would get well mixed.

In the winter, I have been fine with just 3 hours in the evening at 80%. I'd rather leaf-rake the bottom once a week than have the pump run more than it needs to. Plus, IMO, in a pool our size,bi don't want any robots or hoses taking valuable space. I have good circulation, so a brushing twice a week (5 minutes) and some as-needs leaf taking and I'm fine without cleaning machines in there.
Good thoughts. I'll likely try this approach when I get everything balanced out. Thanks! :goodjob:

You could removed the tablets and start using bleach, or leave them in and also add bleach. Whether or not the tablets are causing an issue (like if your CYA is already too high) depends on your test results ;)
Guess I'll be removing those tablets :lol:
 

rk602

New member
Apr 5, 2016
2
Phoenix, Az
As I was researching RPM and programing time for the new IntelliPro Variable Speed Pump I just installed I came across this thread. I noticed a lot of fellow users are using Hayward S244T Sand filters so I thought I would share a conversation with Hayward I had about minimum GPM for the S244t, here is what they said.

Q: What is the minimum GPM I can run for the S244T and the filter still function\filter as intended.

A: Thanks for your inquiry regarding your S244T filter. The designed flow rate for the S244T is 62 GPM. You may go as low as
37 GPM and still achieve effective filtration


With this information in hand I started adjusting the RPM's on the new pump and found that 1950RPM give me 37-39 GPM (post filter using a Blue-White Flowmeter). This will still save me money as the pump pulls 550 Watts of power at 1950 vs 1150 Watts of power at 2600 RPM (RPM for 55-59 GPM) and I can still achieve nearly the same turnover rate with only an additional 2 hours running at 1950.

Dropping the flow rate less than 37GPM may be completely fine just though I would share what Hayward told me.
 

jblizzle

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 19, 2010
43,260
Tucson, AZ
As I was researching RPM and programing time for the new IntelliPro Variable Speed Pump I just installed I came across this thread. I noticed a lot of fellow users are using Hayward S244T Sand filters so I thought I would share a conversation with Hayward I had about minimum GPM for the S244t, here is what they said.

Q: What is the minimum GPM I can run for the S244T and the filter still function\filter as intended.

A: Thanks for your inquiry regarding your S244T filter. The designed flow rate for the S244T is 62 GPM. You may go as low as
37 GPM and still achieve effective filtration


With this information in hand I started adjusting the RPM's on the new pump and found that 1950RPM give me 37-39 GPM (post filter using a Blue-White Flowmeter). This will still save me money as the pump pulls 550 Watts of power at 1950 vs 1150 Watts of power at 2600 RPM (RPM for 55-59 GPM) and I can still achieve nearly the same turnover rate with only an additional 2 hours running at 1950.

Dropping the flow rate less than 37GPM may be completely fine just though I would share what Hayward told me.
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

There is no such thing as a minimum GPM rate for filtration. Why would moving the water slower through the filter hurt anything? Seems to me it would be easier to trap debris. Filter really only have a maximum rate where filtration starts to suffer.

Also, turnover rate is meaningless. There is no need for 1 or 2 turnovers per day. Most pools really only need a couple hours of run time for circulation purposes. See: Determine Pump Run Time
 

rk602

New member
Apr 5, 2016
2
Phoenix, Az
Whoa hey don't kill the messenger I'm just passing on what supposedly came from an engineer at Hayward who the tech services rep consulted. The engineers must have had some reasoning for setting a minimum GPM.
 

pooldv

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Aug 10, 2012
25,408
FL panhandle
LOL! Thanks for sharing that info. They might have a reason but it doesn't mean it's a good one. I skim, filter and make chlorine at 1100 rpm, 150 watts. Has worked great for 4 years.

Agreed, turnovers are not meaningful in residential pools.