New Vinyl Pool

nrm07

Member
Sep 26, 2020
5
Alabama
Pool Size
16733
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
Just finished building a new vinyl pool, first pool for us. Have been reading the forums here for last several months, would love to get advice from yall. Please see the details of the pool below. The builder set the program and threw in some stabilizer/CYA and set the pool to "super chlorinate" for 24 hours. My first question is, does this programming seem reasonable for now? I plan to test the water tomorrow and post the results here before I start adding stuff.
Salt generator running at 35%
Pump 40% 3am-6am
pump 65% 8am- 10am
pump 75% 12 - 3pm
pump 100% 4pm -8pm

Pool Size: 16733 Gallons
Vinyl - Lantham Reef
Salt Water Generator Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T--Cell-15)
Pump: Hayward 1.85hp Tristar VS 900
Filter: Sand
Test Kit: TF100 with salt K1766
Cleaner s300i Maytronics

located in south alabama1B6DB663-5FD3-4445-9C07-CE9B116B99F6.jpeg40788DD0-3A4C-4D51-AD33-16F04DF2A392.jpeg
 

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Helloooo new pool owner! Congrats!

First off.... how cold is your water? Most SWG's don't work in winter cold weather, like <50-60°. So if your new SWG is working you'll probably wake up tomorrow to a pretty high FC level.

One advantage of a properly sized SWG is you can run it on low and help extend its lifespan.

Whenever I need *instant* increase in FC- I go ahead and use liquid chlorine. It meets my needs before any algae can set in.

Let me ask a VSpump pro here how you might adjust your settings for the pump.... I don't have such luxury-just have a one speed plunker. :confused:

@Jimrahbe

Maddie :flower:
 
Currently the water temp is about 52-55.. I just read that super chlorinate is bad for the swg so I will go and shut that off and plan to test the water this afternoon
 
07,

Super-chlorinate is not "bad" for the cell, it just uses the cell up faster, so we don't recommend it.

In my opinion your pool builder's schedule just makes no sense.. The whole point of having a VS pump is to run the pump slowly to save on the electrical bill. There is just about no reason to run a VS pump at full speed.

Has your pool builder turned your pool over to you? If not, I would just leave everything alone until he does. You don't want to give him any kind of excuse for denying a warranty clam later.

Once he has turned to pool over to you, then I would change the schedule to suit your needs..

The very first thing to do is determine the speed that turns on your SWCG... For now, let's "assume" that is 40%. It does not make any sense to run the pump if you are not making chlorine.

If our assumed 40% keeps your pool skimmed, then you don't need to run faster unless you want..

Every pool is a little different, so you will just have to experiment to see what works best for you. I personally don't see any reason to have the pump turn on and off several times a day, as your current pump set up does.

Your cell will increase the FC in your pool by about 10 ppm, when the cell is run at 100% output and 24/7. This would be .41 ppm per hour.. In the middle of the summer, your pool will use about 3 ppm per day.. So to generate 3 ppm of FC, you will need to run your pump for a minimum of 7 hours with the cell at 100%.

I like running the cell at 50% or less... If the cell is set to 50% then it would take about 14 hours to replace the 3 ppm of FC.

Keep in mind that the amount of chlorine that your pool uses will be lower in the Spring and Fall and highest in the middle of the Summer.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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07,

Super-chlorinate is not "bad" for the cell, it just uses the cell up faster, so we don't recommend it.

In my opinion your pool builder's schedule just makes no sense.. The whole point of having a VS pump is to run the pump slowly to save on the electrical bill. There is just about no reason to run a VS pump at full speed.

Has your pool builder turned your pool over to you? If not, I would just leave everything alone until he does. You don't want to give him any kind of excuse for denying a warranty clam later.

Once he has turned to pool over to you, then I would change the schedule to suit your needs..

The very first thing to do is determine the speed that turns on your SWCG... For now, let's "assume" that is 40%. It does not make any sense to run the pump if you are not making chlorine.

If our assumed 40% keeps your pool skimmed, then you don't need to run faster unless you want..

Every pool is a little different, so you will just have to experiment to see what works best for you. I personally don't see any reason to have the pump turn on and off several times a day, as your current pump set up does.

Your cell will increase the FC in your pool by about 10 ppm, when the cell is run at 100% output and 24/7. This would be .41 ppm per hour.. In the middle of the summer, your pool will use about 3 ppm per day.. So to generate 3 ppm of FC, you will need to run your pump for a minimum of 7 hours with the cell at 100%.

I like running the cell at 50% or less... If the cell is set to 50% then it would take about 14 hours to replace the 3 ppm of FC.

Keep in mind that the amount of chlorine that your pool uses will be lower in the Spring and Fall and highest in the middle of the Summer.

Thanks,

Jim R.

thanks for the advise! This lines up with what I have read so far.

Yes the pool builder has turned over the pool to me. I spoke to Hayward, they said the SWCG will run at 1000rpms, which correlates to 30% pump speed for me.

I have attached the results from my first test with the tf100 kit. I repeated the tests a few times to try to get consistent. Please let me know what y’all think I should add at this time/change.


k1000- ph 7.5, Cl 5

Cl- 4.5
CC- 0
CH- 325
TA - 170
CYA 55

So.. these are the changes I plan to make:
I will change my settings to run
30% pump 0300-1200
70% pump 1200-2000
All with the swcg at 35% (will increase this as needed based on FC)

As far as pool chemicals, I plan to not do anything today, retest tomorrow and maybe add some more stabilizer, and some muriatic acid and aerate (to lower ph and TA then raise pH without TA rise)

sound reasonable?
 

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I am awaiting to hear back from Hayward as to what’s the minimum speed the pump can run at that will allow the swcg to run.

Why?? Each pool is a little different.. You need to decide what works for your pool... Just decrease your pump speed until your SWCG's control panel shows "low flow" and then slowly increase the speed until the SWCG fires back up.. Add about 100RPM and call it a day... That will be the lowest speed you want to run..

You only need to use the K-100 to measure your pH.. List your data as follows.. and there is no need to list CL

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temp.

At this point I don't see any real issues... TA is high, but I would not worry about it at all for now.. CYA is low, but this time a year it won't make a big difference.

This time of year most SWCG's are shut off due to cold water... I would want to know if the cell is working or not.. If it is make sure the FC does not go down.. If the cell is not working, then add enough Liquid Chlorine each day to make sure the FC does not go down

I'd test for a few days in a row and see what is trending up or down...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Excellent advice, appreciate the help.
Yes the pool builder has turned it over to me.
Why?? Each pool is a little different.. You need to decide what works for your pool... Just decrease your pump speed until your SWCG's control panel shows "low flow" and then slowly increase the speed until the SWCG fires back up.. Add about 100RPM and call it a day... That will be the lowest speed you want to run..

You only need to use the K-100 to measure your pH.. List your data as follows.. and there is no need to list CL

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temp.

At this point I don't see any real issues... TA is high, but I would not worry about it at all for now.. CYA is low, but this time a year it won't make a big difference.

This time of year most SWCG's are shut off due to cold water... I would want to know if the cell is working or not.. If it is make sure the FC does not go down.. If the cell is not working, then add enough Liquid Chlorine each day to make sure the FC does not go down

I'd test for a few days in a row and see what is trending up or down...

Thanks,

Jim R.

sounds good, appreciate the help!
 
Just finished building a new vinyl pool, first pool for us. Have been reading the forums here for last several months, would love to get advice from yall. Please see the details of the pool below. The builder set the program and threw in some stabilizer/CYA and set the pool to "super chlorinate" for 24 hours. My first question is, does this programming seem reasonable for now? I plan to test the water tomorrow and post the results here before I start adding stuff.
Salt generator running at 35%
Pump 40% 3am-6am
pump 65% 8am- 10am
pump 75% 12 - 3pm
pump 100% 4pm -8pm

Pool Size: 16733 Gallons
Vinyl - Lantham Reef
Salt Water Generator Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T--Cell-15)
Pump: Hayward 1.85hp Tristar VS 900
Filter: Sand
Test Kit: TF100 with salt K1766
Cleaner s300i Maytronics

located in south alabamaView attachment 175214View attachment 175215
Beautiful! We are in the process of a new build vinyl pool and I am so excited but nervous as this is our first pool.
 
Why?? Each pool is a little different.. You need to decide what works for your pool... Just decrease your pump speed until your SWCG's control panel shows "low flow" and then slowly increase the speed until the SWCG fires back up.. Add about 100RPM and call it a day... That will be the lowest speed you want to run.

I have a sand filter. I found that you should run this test when the filter is clean and when it is dirty. The SWG would start generating at 30% pump speed when clean but not until 44% pump speed when the filter was dirty.
 
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