New to TFP

daveintexas

Member
Aug 30, 2021
14
San Antonio
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Compu Pool CPX / CPSC48
New to the group, TIA for the help!

I want to take control of my testing and pool chemistry. I filled in a few metrics in the log (see link) using the test kit I purchased from Leslie’s. They assured me it’s the same one from Taylor, they just white label it.

I added shock this morning as Fc was 0 amd it’s been an ongoing issue for a couple of weeks now. Based on the info, what should I do next to get my water back in recommended range for the basics

 
Welcome to the forum!
Be sure the test kit has the FAS-DPD test for FC/CC. You will have R0870 powder and R0871 reagent.
Your Poolmath logs are not populated. Be sure to save the test results after you enter them. The check mark in the upper right of the entry screen.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: I doubt the test kit they sold you had the FAS-DPD portion. You'll want that for sure. Refer to the link below.. It's a great resource.

 
Welcome to the forum!
Be sure the test kit has the FAS-DPD test for FC/CC. You will have R0870 powder and R0871 reagent.
Your Poolmath logs are not populated. Be sure to save the test results after you enter them. The check mark in the upper right of the entry screen.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Thank you sir. I reviewed my log and it says there’s not enough info. My brand of SWG isn’t listed and I don’t understand what it’s asking me to log with regard to %’s. I’ll go back and re-read the ABCs section, but I’m afraid if everything isn’t in the log, I won’t be able to get much help from that feature.

Fc = 3
CYA = 100
Ph = 8+? color comparison hard to see for me…
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: I doubt the test kit they sold you had the FAS-DPD portion. You'll want that for sure. Refer to the link below.. It's a great resource.

Dang it! I thought I bought the right kit…
 
Your CYA will need to be the first thing you address. It's too high probably from pool store bags of sock and/or tabs. The only way to lower the CYA is by exchanging water. It's still hot here in SA, but I would try to get the CYA down to at least 70 before you try to adjust any other chemicals so that you don't waste chemicals and money. Once you get the CYA down, then we can help you balance the other stuff. You do want to get that FAS-DPD noted above. It's a must for accurate FC testing. Also be sure to lower the pH into the 7.2 - 7.8 range once you change some water. Big storms rolling through this afternoon. Maybe take advantage of some of those too.
 
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Your CYA will need to be the first thing you address. It's too high probably from pool store bags of sock and/or tabs. The only way to lower the CYA is by exchanging water. It's still hot here in SA, but I would try to get the CYA down to at least 70 before you try to adjust any other chemicals so that you don't waste chemicals and money. Once you get the CYA down, then we can help you balance the other stuff. You do want to get that FAS-DPD noted above. It's a must for accurate FC testing. Also be sure to lower the pH into the 7.2 - 7.8 range once you change some water. Big storms rolling through this afternoon. Maybe take advantage of some of those too.
Thank you!!
 
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The Jacuzzi SWCG is rebranded generic. It is rated to make 1.32 lbs of chlorine gas a day. It is essentially a Compool CPSC48. Pick that in the drop down list.
 
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Ok, I figured out the log, just don’t have a recent salt test. It was tested on Friday last week (Leslie’s) and it was 3900 ppm, so that’s what I put on the log. My unit calls for a target of 4000.

From what I’ve read, I can’t lower by CYA without draining/refilling w/fresh water. I’m not sure how much to drain and I’ll have to wait until fall/cooler weather to do this. What’s the harm in letting it ride?

Also, when the color on Taylor test shows between 3-6 for Fc, for example, how do you know which number to select? I went with the middle range for both Fc and Ph. Ph may actually be over 8, but hard to tell what to select here. Picking up Muriatic Acid from Lowe’s today…


Any thoughts as to next steps (after CYA)?
 
Also, when the color on Taylor test shows between 3-6 for Fc, for example, how do you know which number to select?
That range is NOT for FC. The 3 is the TC (total chlorine). The 6 is for Bromine, which you do not have.

Use the FAS-DPD for FC testing.

Do the extended CYA test if you are getting 100. Dilute the pool water 1:1 with tap water. Use that mixture for your pool water sample. Then do the CYA test and double the result.
 
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From what I’ve read, I can’t lower by CYA without draining/refilling w/fresh water. I’m not sure how much to drain and I’ll have to wait until fall/cooler weather to do this. What’s the harm in letting it ride
It’s an even %. To lower it by half requires half a drain and so on.
What’s the harm in letting it ride
You need more chlorine to maintain the same sanitary level. At 100 you’re SWG will probably need a good deal of supplementing with liquid chlorine.
Also, when the color on Taylor test shows between 3-6 for Fc, for example, how do you know which number to select? I went with the middle range for both Fc and Ph.
You need to do the powder FAS-DPD test. The block test is only an idea and not suited for dosing
 
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