New to TFP, Just filled 60 days ago and I took over from the "pool guy" 2 weeks ago and have a couple of questions.

[magbarn]

22x40 in ground plaster/mini pebble, approx 30K gallons, intellichem controlling IC40 SWG (now I know I should've went with IC60 and I should've never wasted money on )
Filled it 60 days ago and cut off pool guy just 3 weeks ago and I've been managing since.
TF-Pro Salt with stirrer is my test kit

1. I did my math wrong and went overboard on the Calcium Chloride and ended up dumping the whole bag and went from tap water CH of 170 all the way to 400. I was shooting for the 250-300 range. My ex pool guy said I should've never added the CaCl and now I run the risk of having to drain may pool earlier than expected due to too high CH. I did it at the time as my builder/pool guy insisted that my pH be around 7.6 when the water temp was in the 40's for several weeks and the CSI was around -.6 so I sneakily added the CaCl in order to make it less corrosive.
Was what he said was true?

2. I'm keeping my CYA at 40 as pool guy warned me that I'll mess up the ORP sensor. Is it still accepted practice just to disable the ORP, crank up CYA to 60 and just run the SWG based on time and percentage?

3. My FC is a bit high due to the ORP instability. Is it ok to leave it here? My pool is really clear

4. I have 2 skimmers and along with the Pentair suction cleaner I have run my pump at a high RPM in order to keep getting good skimmer action and the cleaner having enough especially when I'm running the solar heater. Would the dolphin S200 be a good investment? I have a large reef area and would like to keep it clean. I've been manually sweeping and vacuuming for now.

Thanks and this forum is awesome.

Pics below and pool math and TF-Pro kit has been awesome. Pool guy just kept using crappy strips.

 

[PoolStored]

1. I did my math wrong and went overboard on the Calcium Chloride and ended up dumping the whole bag and went from tap water CH of 170 all the way to 400. I was shooting for the 250-300 range. My ex pool guy said I should've never added the CaCl and now I run the risk of having to drain may pool earlier than expected due to too high CH.

This is true.

I did it at the time as my builder/pool guy insisted that my pH be around 7.6 when the water temp was in the 40's for several weeks and the CSI was around -.6 so I sneakily added the CaCl in order to make it less corrosive.
Was what he said was true?

CSI negative in the winter when colder is not an issue, and will correct itself when temperatures rise. "Users shouldn’t stress if their CSI falls out of the “safe range” as it takes a long time for any problems to occur." This includes winter.

Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)

How is CSI calculated? Very simple – use our PoolMath tool. To ensure long plaster life and save money, click here to learn more.

www.troublefreepool.com

2. I'm keeping my CYA at 40 as pool guy warned me that I'll mess up the ORP sensor. Is it still accepted practice just to disable the ORP, crank up CYA to 60 and just run the SWG based on time and percentage?

Yes, perfectly acceptable and would be the way that I would run. Will save money in the long run as your cell will last longer.

3. My FC is a bit high due to the ORP instability. Is it ok to leave it here? My pool is really clear

Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

4. I have 2 skimmers and along with the Pentair suction cleaner I have run my pump at a high RPM in order to keep getting good skimmer action and the cleaner having enough especially when I'm running the solar heater. Would the dolphin S200 be a good investment? I have a large reef area and would like to keep it clean. I've been manually sweeping and vacuuming for now.

The S200 is preferred by many members here.


WELCOME TO TFP!!!!

 

[PoolStored]

Oh...and beautiful pool!!!!

 

[Oly]

It's best practice to add chems in stages and work up to your desired level. This is most important with CH and CYA as if you get much over your target it can require draining some water and refilling.

Keeping your FC on the high end of the CYA/FC range is no vice. Relax and enjoy your nice pool, you are on the fast track to a Trouble Free Pool.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

tap water CH of 170

Very beautiful pool!

Does your home have a water softener? If so, consider adding softened water to make up for evaporative loss.

 

[magbarn]

Thank you for all the responses and compliments. I just noticed I could’ve gotten a significant discount by supporting TFP with the testing kits. I guess next year I’ll get the discount.

Love my pool but noticed PB cheaped out and plumbed the 2 main drains with the skimmers when he should’ve ran separate lines. At least he ran the 2 skimmer/drain combos in parallel so they’re on separate valves. Wish I was reading this site before the build/planning stages. Definitely recommending this place to my neighbors as we all have new houses.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

PB cheaped out and plumbed the 2 main drains with the skimmers when he should’ve ran separate lines.

That's not a big deal. Stand-alone main drains are of little use anyways. There is one advantage to having the MD connected to the skimmer. If your skimmer ever clogs due to debris or runs low on water, the diverter valve will shut and pull water from the main drains, saving your pump. Just make sure you have diverter valves installed under your skimmer baskets.

 

[magbarn]

That's not a big deal. Stand-alone main drains are of little use anyways. There is one advantage to having the MD connected to the skimmer. If your skimmer ever clogs due to debris or runs low on water, the diverter valve will shut and pull water from the main drains, saving your pump. Just make sure you have diverter valves installed under your skimmer baskets.

Good point. I just ordered some hair nets after reading another thread. I was thinking of using the MD to do water drains and exchanges but also just learned that's a bad idea anyway. Better to use a small "disposable" pump instead of my $$$$ Pentair VSF pump.

 

[Bperry]

That's not a big deal. Stand-alone main drains are of little use anyways. There is one advantage to having the MD connected to the skimmer. If your skimmer ever clogs due to debris or runs low on water, the diverter valve will shut and pull water from the main drains, saving your pump. Just make sure you have diverter valves installed under your skimmer baskets

Curious how they do the anti-entrapment feature if there are two drains on separate lines. If you can shut one drain off then the other one would be the lone drain left, unless there is another feature on a single drain accomplishing that?