New to TFP and newbie to Pool Maintenance

[tethys69]

I really appreciate your finding that, frogabog. Thing is, my test doesn't 'flash from blue to yellow' -it just goes from clear to pink. But, just for grins I'll try doubling the dose of 0007. Maybe you're right.

Results will be posted shortly.

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[tethys69]

Alrighty. Got so far as adding 8 drops of 0007 to the 25mL sample - same results. The green sits there for a bit, but then goes straight to pink when I mix.

Perhaps I need to let the water circulate for a few more days without the pucks to get this chlorine level down? Maybe such long use of those 3" pucks... uh... pucked me.

Entertaining any ideas. If you've got one to throw, I'm catching.

 

[frogabog]

Maybe you could sit the sample out in the sun and let the chlorine level drop, then test later today?

I dunno if this would work, I expect if it is not a good idea someone with brains will chime in and veto it.

here's the link to the Taylor Alkalinity test kit pdf. It has some images that might help you. http://taylortechnologies.com/product_f ... ty_web.pdf

 

[tethys69]

I'm certainly willing to give it a shot. Thanks for the effort and the link!

 

[chem geek]

There is one interference to be aware of in the alkalinity test.

If the chlorine level is really high, then the color may flash from blue to yellow instead of green to red. This can be solved by adding more neutralizer in step one.

There is one misconception to be aware of in the alkalinity test.

It is widely circulated that you should take your Total Alkalinity reading and subtract one third of the Stabilizer reading to get your true alkalinity reading. THIS IS NOT TRUE. Don't believe it even if your local pool store kid tells you it is true. He is probably delusional. Stabilizer is Cyanuric Acid and does not register as Carbonate Alkalinity, therefore it will not affect the accuracy of your Total Alkalinity test. "

While the part they wrote about chlorine changing the color of the indicator dye in the TA test if the chlorine level is high, the test still works though one can use more chlorine neutralizer to get a more normal colored test.

This other part I quoted above is confusing. It is true that to get the TA reading you do not adjust with the CYA reading, but you DO need to do this if you are using a simple formula for calculating the saturation index. The carbonate alkalinity is what is needed for calculating the saturation index and you do calculate that by adjusting the TA for the CYA (and Borates) level, but all of this is done for you automatically in The Pool Calculator.

 

[tethys69]

Thanks for the info chem geek. The pool calulator is an awesome thing.

Something really isn't making any sense to me. As suggested by frogabog, I took a sample and left it out for 24hrs. When I did a simple chlorine test it came up clear - no color. So I'm thinking all the chlorine was burned off in the sun between yesterday and today. Then, I did the TA test using this chlorine free sample (using the TF-100 kit) and it did the EXACT same thing - i.e. I added 2 drops of 0007, mixed, added 5 drops of 0008, mixed; it goes straight from green to red upon mixing.

Just for grins I tried the TA test WITHOUT the 0007 drops and went straight to the 5 0008 drops - SAME results.

Is it possible there's something up with my 0007 reagent? As I understand it, the 0007 drops are meant to neutrilize any chlorine in the sample. If 0007 is not neutrilizing the chlorine would it make sense that the sample would go straight to red?

If not the 0007 itself, what other things could be going on here?

Thoughts and suggestions please.

Thanks.

 

[chem geek]

Going to red right away has nothing to do with the chlorine level. It means the TA is zero (or negative) and that also means the pH is very low at or below 4.5. Your pool is very, very corrosive right now, both to plaster and to metal. Add baking soda right away or if you have some pH Up product you can use some of that, just be careful not to overshoot either TA nor pH. Apparently, your pH was VERY low so even the baking soda you've added hasn't moved it above 4.5 yet.

 

[tethys69]

Thanks once again, chem geek.

I added another 10lbs of Baking Soda and let it circulate for 2 hours.

New test results:

FC - 5; low (down from 8 last time - not a surprise since I haven't been touching the chlorine levels)
CC - 0; acceptable range
TC - 5; low (see FC)
pH - darn close to 6.8; low (up from below 4.5 last time)
TA - 60; low (up from 0 last time. woohoo!)
CH - 200; acceptable range (down from 240 last time. May just have been because it was my first time reading it...)
CYA - 80; high (same as last time. No surprise there. I'm hopeful this will lower as I stop using the 3" pucks and the water gradually gets replaced)
Temp - 83 F

So, unless anyone has strong objections, here's my plan to get the fine tuning taking care of (as per the pool calculator):

Raise FC to 7 - add 52oz 6% bleach
Raise pH to 7.6 AND raise TA to 74 - add 91oz Borax (20 Mule)

I think that'll get everything within the acceptable ranges.

Anything else I should know about before sallying forth with my plan?

 

[chem geek]

That sounds reasonable. Using the Borax to raise the pH will prevent you from overshooting the TA. The TA will rise some, but not too much. If necessary, after adjusting your pH, you can always add baking soda if you needed to raise the TA more, but I don't think that will be necessary.

 

[tethys69]

Great, chem geek, adjustments are underway.

Here's (yet another) question for anyone - as I understand it, high FC can effect the testing of pH. According to the Chlorine/CYA Chart, with my CYA of 80 I'm shooting for an FC level of 9. My current plan is to get the pH set and THEN get my FC to 9, but even now my FC is 6.5. How do I test for pH at this level and beyond?

Thanks (and happy 4th of July to all)!

 

[Richard320]

Great, chem geek, adjustments are underway.

Here's (yet another) question for anyone - as I understand it, high FC can effect the testing of pH. According to the Chlorine/CYA Chart, with my CYA of 80 I'm shooting for an FC level of 9. My current plan is to get the pH set and THEN get my FC to 9, but even now my FC is 6.5. How do I test for pH at this level and beyond?

Thanks (and happy 4th of July to all)!

pH test is fine if you're only taking FC to 9. It only gets wacky when you're over 10.

 

[tethys69]

Thanks again, Richard320, for helping me out.

OK, after all of this my test results are looking great:

FC - 8 (I'm touching this up to try and get it to 9)
CC - 0
TC - 8
pH - 7.5
TA - 110
CH - 200
CYA - 80
Temp - 83 F

It's been a lot of startup work to get the levels here, but I'm very happy with the results now. The pool LOOKED good before, but now I know it actually IS good. I have some additional questions, but this post is getting mighty long so I'll leave them to a different post.

My sincerest THANKS to everyone who helped me out. You've made me a believer. Because of all the friendly guidance and suggestions I'm signing up as a TFP Lifetime Supporter!!!

Thank you all!