New to testing

[yitzkr]

Hi, hoping someone can help me. I just got my TF-Pro kit and logged the results. I'm not sure what any of them mean and haven't yet figured out how to use the Pool Math calculator. Any assistance is appreciated.
I have a 24,000 gallon chlorine pool with vinyl lining. Here are my test results:

• PH seems to be 7.2
• Chlorine is higher than 5
• FC is 8.5
• CC is .5
• TC is 9
• CH is 50 ppm
• TA is 60
• CYA is 80

Appreciate if anyone can offer some guidance as to how my pool is doing and what it needs. Thanks!

 

[bgollmer]

Hi, hoping someone can help me. I just got my TF-Pro kit and logged the results. I'm not sure what any of them mean and haven't yet figured out how to use the Pool Math calculator. Any assistance is appreciated.
I have a 24,000 gallon chlorine pool with vinyl lining. Here are my test results:

• PH seems to be 7.2
• Chlorine is higher than 5
• FC is 8.5
• CC is .5
• TC is 9
• CH is 50 ppm
• TA is 60
• CYA is 80

Appreciate if anyone can offer some guidance as to how my pool is doing and what it needs. Thanks!

You need to start by adding your pool in the pool math app.
It will ask you for a name, vinyl liner, pool volume = 24000 gallons.
Next it will ask whether you sanitize using liquid chlorine or have a salt water generator.

After the pool is created, click the + key at the bottom of the app and select "log test results". Fill in your numbers as above.

 

[yitzkr]

You need to start by adding your pool in the pool math app.
It will ask you for a name, vinyl liner, pool volume = 24000 gallons.
Next it will ask whether you sanitize using liquid chlorine or have a salt water generator.

After the pool is created, click the + key at the bottom of the app and select "log test results". Fill in your numbers as above.

Thanks. I tried that and it says something about a premium subscription. I might do that eventually, just looking for proof-of-concept for now. Is there no method of figuring out a pool with the test kit other than the premium subscription on the pool math app?

 

[Griswald]

You are doing fine. Keep it near those numbers and it will stay trouble free!

 

[JJ_Tex]

Your numbers are pretty good, maybe a tad low on the FC since your CYA is high.

Check out the link below for your ideal numbers. Also you can use poolmath without the subscription. For the ~$8 per year for premium it keeps track of your history so you can review your logs.

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[VinnyinNJ]

Thanks. I tried that and it says something about a premium subscription. I might do that eventually, just looking for proof-of-concept for now. Is there no method of figuring out a pool with the test kit other than the premium subscription on the pool math app?

You can use the pool math calculator without the premium subscription, I did that the first month I downloaded it due to my pool was operational for only a few weeks before closing. Unfortunately the free version doesn't allow you to log pool results and add comments - it will only show you 1 reading and 1 comment ... the paid version allows you multiple readings and comments. You can do it on the free version until you get comfortable, it's just a little more time consuming/complicated.

As far as your numbers, they look good! As was said since you are running a CYA of 80 you need to keep the free chlorine (FC) higher than if it was at 30, you can use this to get the right amount of FC: The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship
You don't have to worry about CA in a vinyl pool unless you have a heater (I think) and as long as FC stays around the recommended amount, the CC doesn't jump up and your pool is nice and clear-your pool is doing great!

 

[Mdragger88]

You can still use the calculator & set up your pool without a subscription.
It just keeps only 1 log.
It used to replace the log with the newest results each time - not sure if it still does that.
At any rate, on the overview page you can click on the parameter’s card you want to adjust & enter your “current” & “target” values.

everything you posted looks fine.
How does your water look? Cloudy? Visible algae? Or Crystal clear?

 

[oledan]

For 8bucks a year it’s the best money I ever spent! I test multiple times a week and log everything.

 

[yitzkr]

Thanks everyone for your replies. I'm hoping someone can advise me again:

I started managing the pool myself for the past month or two with the TF-Pro test kit. My PH is consistently 7.2, TA has mostly been at 60, but has varied a bit up and down. Today I tested twice and it came to 50. I'm wondering if anyone can advise whether to just leave it as things seem pretty steady or if it's worth raising the TA and/or the PH? I'm mainly concerned that my (new) heater shouldn't get ruined, and then generally that the pool and water should be in best shape.

Full stats:
FC 8.5
TA 50
PH 7.2
CH 75
CYA 60

As a side note, I'm surprised there isn't a better method to calculate the CYA. At this point I've done the test many times, but I find there is no clear definition of what is called seeing the black dot, e.g. if you know a black dot is there you can see it for longer than if you don't; there's also vague seeing of some sort of color there, but can't actually make out the black dot, etc. And so my CYA might be anywhere from 50-80. I really find that test pretty useless without better guidance or a better system than the one the test kit uses.

I've gained a lot from reading these forums. Thanks to everyone who contributes!

 

[Mdragger88]

Your heater probably has some sort of requirement for ch (usually around 250) so stick with whatever that says while you’re under warranty at least.
As for the ph & ta - they are fine.
If you want the ph to increase a little you can aerate the water. (Point the jets up to create turbulence) or run any water features you may have until it gets to mid 7’s.

As for cya - maybe this will help

https://www.troublefreepool.com/images/CYA%20EndPoint.png

 

[yitzkr]

Hi all, I bought the TF-PRO in the summer for my chlorine pool. I've since changed my pool over from chlorine to SWG. I'm wondering what else I need to test for and what chemicals I need to buy.
When comparing the TF-PRO and the TF-PRO SALT, it appears to me that the two chemicals I'm missing are: R-0630 and R-0718.
Is that all I need to buy to convert my TF-PRO to a TF-PRO SALT?
Thank you

 

[wireform]

Yes, and you'll want a separate vial which comes complete in the "k-1766" Taylor kit

 

[PoolStored]

Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit

tftestkits.net

 

[yitzkr]

I'm hoping someone can help me further:

I recently shifted from chlorine to SWG. I also recently did a pool renovation, and so the pool was refilled with fresh water a couple of weeks ago. Pool guy did the pool opening. He added a ton of salt and I think maybe some pH (?) last week. He said the pool is good to go chemical-wise.

I just did a round of testing now a week later and I'm confused about a bunch of things. (The pool water is crystal clear, for context.)

TestResults:

• Salt test - 2400ppm (12 drops x 200)
• CH - 75 PPM
• PH - 8.2
• CYA - zero
• Alkalinity - 70

Questions:

1. I bought the Taylor Kit K-1766, per advice above (thanks!). However, I can't quite figure out how/where to input that test in the Pool Math app. I only see the Free Chlorine input option which has a recommended ppm of 1.0 - 3.0. My Taylor Kit K-1766 test showed a result of 2400ppm (12 drops x 200). I'm confused about how and where to input this result.
2. Now that I have the SWG, I don't do the regular chlorine test anymore? I can throw out the R-0870, R-0871, and R-003? And the yellow side of the test block with the R-0600 doesn't work anymore either, correct?
3. My CYA returned a result of zero (I can see the black dot all the way to the top, it's crystal clear). Is that normal for a newly-filled pool?
4. Should I still be targeting 200ppm CH (or so) for heater health? I assume that doesn't change with the SWG.

I'm thinking to add stabilizer to increase the CYA, add a pH-down chemical to lower pH, add calcium chloride to increase CH.

Two other questions:

1. My SWG says "Hayward TurboCell TCELLS340 (T-Cell-15 replacment)" on it. In the Pool Math app I see an option for "Hayward - Aqua Rite (T-15)". Is that the one I have? I can't find any exact match to the model number shown on my part.
2. My new saltwater system also comes with a fancy panel to manage the saltwater levels (Hayward model AQRS3XX). My pool guy told me he'll put it on 65%, and that - as the weather warms up - I'll probably want to increase it. Strangely, for many days now, the panel consistently tells me that the pool has 3400ppm. I'm targeting 3100ppm, so I tried lowering the percentage down; the past few days I had it at 50%, and today I lowered it down to 20%. It's still stuck at 3400ppm and doesn't seem to budge. I'm wondering if I'm not using the system properly.

Sorry for the long message. My appreciation if anyone has time to offer some advice, thanks!

 

[JJ_Tex]

Questions:

1. I bought the Taylor Kit K-1766, per advice above (thanks!). However, I can't quite figure out how/where to input that test in the Pool Math app. I only see the Free Chlorine input option which has a recommended ppm of 1.0 - 3.0. My Taylor Kit K-1766 test showed a result of 2400ppm (12 drops x 200). I'm confused about how and where to input this result.
2. Now that I have the SWG, I don't do the regular chlorine test anymore? I can throw out the R-0870, R-0871, and R-003? And the yellow side of the test block with the R-0600 doesn't work anymore either, correct?
3. My CYA returned a result of zero (I can see the black dot all the way to the top, it's crystal clear). Is that normal for a newly-filled pool?
4. Should I still be targeting 200ppm CH (or so) for heater health? I assume that doesn't change with the SWG.

I'm thinking to add stabilizer to increase the CYA, add a pH-down chemical to lower pH, add calcium chloride to increase CH.

Two other questions:

1. My SWG says "Hayward TurboCell TCELLS340 (T-Cell-15 replacment)" on it. In the Pool Math app I see an option for "Hayward - Aqua Rite (T-15)". Is that the one I have? I can't find any exact match to the model number shown on my part.
2. My new saltwater system also comes with a fancy panel to manage the saltwater levels (Hayward model AQRS3XX). My pool guy told me he'll put it on 65%, and that - as the weather warms up - I'll probably want to increase it. Strangely, for many days now, the panel consistently tells me that the pool has 3400ppm. I'm targeting 3100ppm, so I tried lowering the percentage down; the past few days I had it at 50%, and today I lowered it down to 20%. It's still stuck at 3400ppm and doesn't seem to budge. I'm wondering if I'm not using the system properly.

Sorry for the long message. My appreciation if anyone has time to offer some advice, thanks!

1. That is a salt test kit and tests salt in the water, not FC. 2400ppm would be your salt, so likely a bit low for your SWCG to generate chlorine.
2. Dont throw any of that out, and use those tests to test for FC (and do that ASAP since you didnt list FC in your numbers and I'm worried its low). Chlorine is chlorine and doesnt matter where it came from.
3. Yes, tap water has no CYA
4. Yes

1. I will defer to someone else.
2. You are getting confused. The salt cell needs a certain salinity range in the generate chlorine. The % is just how much time the salt cell runs and generates chlorine. If you have it at 100%, it generates chlorine all the time. It you have it at 20%, it will run 20% of the time and not generate 80% of the time. Your cell run time does not change your salt reading. Turst your test kit for more accurate results, but the 2,400 you mention in #1 is quite a bit off from your system's readings so I would double check your testing and re-test.

I would suggest you spend some time in Pool School, starting with this article:

Salt Water Chlorine Generators

Salt Water Generators are designed to produce small amounts of chlorine continuously. This is perfect for day to day use and reduces work for the homeowner.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[yitzkr]

1. That is a salt test kit and tests salt in the water, not FC. 2400ppm would be your salt, so likely a bit low for your SWCG to generate chlorine.
2. Dont throw any of that out, and use those tests to test for FC (and do that ASAP since you didnt list FC in your numbers and I'm worried its low). Chlorine is chlorine and doesnt matter where it came from.
3. Yes, tap water has no CYA
4. Yes

1. I will defer to someone else.
2. You are getting confused. The salt cell needs a certain salinity range in the generate chlorine. The % is just how much time the salt cell runs and generates chlorine. If you have it at 100%, it generates chlorine all the time. It you have it at 20%, it will run 20% of the time and not generate 80% of the time. Your cell run time does not change your salt reading. Turst your test kit for more accurate results, but the 2,400 you mention in #1 is quite a bit off from your system's readings so I would double check your testing and re-test.

I would suggest you spend some time in Pool School, starting with this article:

Salt Water Chlorine Generators

Salt Water Generators are designed to produce small amounts of chlorine continuously. This is perfect for day to day use and reduces work for the homeowner.

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks so much. I did both chlorine tests and they come out to zero.
Would you recommend adding liquid chlorine and then later increasing the salt? Or just add salt and that will take care of the chlorine levels?

 

[JJ_Tex]

Thanks so much. I did both chlorine tests and they come out to zero.
Would you recommend adding liquid chlorine and then later increasing the salt? Or just add salt and that will take care of the chlorine levels?

I was there a month ago and it was still pretty chilly, but hopefully you are warming up by now. Regardless of the air temp, FC of 0 scares me and I would get some liquid chlorine in there ASAP while you adjust your other levels.

 

[yitzkr]

I was there a month ago and it was still pretty chilly, but hopefully you are warming up by now. Regardless of the air temp, FC of 0 scares me and I would get some liquid chlorine in there ASAP while you adjust your other levels.

Appreciate your help. I've added a gallon of liquid chlorine.
I still don't know how to add the salt levels to the Pool Math app. My app does not have a field for adding salt levels. Any insight?
Thanks

 

[JJ_Tex]

If you click on the Salt rectangle on the main screen with all of the other metrics, it should pull up another screen specific to only salt. Then you input:
Current Salt (I would test again since there is a large discrepancy in your test kit and your salt water generator)
Target Level (I recommend 3200 since most cells work fine then, but its not to the point where you can taste the salt in the water)
Bag Size - 40lb is the standard size

Once you have all of those input it will tell you how many bags you need.

Or... I just did the calculations for you and each 40lb bag will add 212 ppm of salt to your 22.5k gallon pool.

 

[Mdragger88]

You must turn on salt tracking for it to be an option.
Hit the in the upper right of the overview screen



Then hit the checkmark