Just installed a salt generator and our pool turned green. We dosed with 4 bags of shock. Test strips show stabilizer and pH good and chlorine high. Generator shows high salt. Don’t want to empty 30,000 gallons of salted water and start over. Any ideas??
New to salt generator
- Thread starter Smith2646
- Start date
Is the pool cloudy green or a bright clear green?
How long has the pool been set up?
What is the source of the pool water?
How long after you added the "shock" did the pool turn green?
What was the "shock". Look for a chemical name like "CalHypo" or "Dichlor"
Was it clear before?
Have you used any other stuff like algecides?
I will be honest, test strips simply do not provide the accuracy and consistency you need. Because of this we do not make chemical recommendations based on them. I want you to be able to say that your chlorine level is 5.2,. not that your chlorine is "OK".
We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF-100 Test Kit ™ and dependin on the answers to your questions you may need the XL Option .
Please don't go to the local pool store for a test kit. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. The TF-100 Test Kit ™ has this test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not!
While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with these:
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
So, welcome to TFP!!
How long has the pool been set up?
What is the source of the pool water?
How long after you added the "shock" did the pool turn green?
What was the "shock". Look for a chemical name like "CalHypo" or "Dichlor"
Was it clear before?
Have you used any other stuff like algecides?
I will be honest, test strips simply do not provide the accuracy and consistency you need. Because of this we do not make chemical recommendations based on them. I want you to be able to say that your chlorine level is 5.2,. not that your chlorine is "OK".
We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF-100 Test Kit ™ and dependin on the answers to your questions you may need the XL Option .
Please don't go to the local pool store for a test kit. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. The TF-100 Test Kit ™ has this test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not!
While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with these:
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.
www.troublefreepool.com
Recommended Pool Chemicals
Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com
The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship
Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.
www.troublefreepool.com
So, welcome to TFP!!
Was light green then turned dark after we set up salt system.
We added shock the morning we woke up to find it green.
Light aquamarine color
Algacide and clarifier. Green was getting much lighter but pool cloudy right before we switched systems.
For right now test strips shoe the following:I will be honest, test strips simply do not provide the accuracy and consistency you need. Because of this we do not make chemical recommendations based on them. I want you to be able to say that your chlorine level is 5.2,. not that your chlorine is "OK".
We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF-100 Test Kit ™ and dependin on the answers to your questions you may need the XL Option .
Please don't go to the local pool store for a test kit. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. The TF-100 Test Kit ™ has this test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not!
While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with these:
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.
Recommended Pool Chemicals
Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.
The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship
Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.
So, welcome to TFP!!
Hard. 200
TC. 10ppm
FC. 10ppm
pH. 7.2-7.8
Alk. around 40-80
Stabilizer. around 75
If I'm reading this right, you had a clear pool turned on the SWCG/shocked the pool and it turned green.
Algae doesn't work that way and with well water being your source of water I'm leaning toward iron in the water. Iron in the water cause yellow or brown stains on the pool surface and also occasionally times the water a clear transparent yellow or green. So, is it a clear kind of transparent green or a cloudy green where you can't see the bottom?
You really need to get rid of the test strips and go with one of the recommended test kits I talked about above.
You really need to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test so we can rule out organics in the water, but can't do that with strips, you need a real test kit.
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
Algae doesn't work that way and with well water being your source of water I'm leaning toward iron in the water. Iron in the water cause yellow or brown stains on the pool surface and also occasionally times the water a clear transparent yellow or green. So, is it a clear kind of transparent green or a cloudy green where you can't see the bottom?
You really need to get rid of the test strips and go with one of the recommended test kits I talked about above.
You really need to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test so we can rule out organics in the water, but can't do that with strips, you need a real test kit.
Iron Fill Water Filter - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.
www.troublefreepool.com
I have ordered the Taylor K-2006C kit. It should be here next week. Our pool was a light green cloudy before we changed to salt. Should I use test strips until kit arrives and keep Cl high with liquid bleach? Is it ok to keep SWG running? Dead stuff on bottom of pool so I will keep vacuuming and backwashing sand filter. Not sure what else to do right now. What about clarifier?
jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Don't bother with clarifier or algaecides (certainly nothing with copper in it--the only algaecide I would recommend is Poly 60 & only for specific situations).
You need a proper salt test to know the value in the water. I would turn off the SWG until that is known. High salt can cause over-amperage. I've blown a fuse by forgetting to turn mine off while adding salt.
In the meantime, the one time we might recommend a pool store water test is for metals. I suspect you have iron in your well-sourced fill water. High chlorine content will make the iron turn the water green very very rapidly, which is what you describe.
If you have a store that offers testing for metals, you might take a sample to them. I wouldn't trust the numbers 100%, but if it shows iron, then it's likely this is the case.
You need a proper salt test to know the value in the water. I would turn off the SWG until that is known. High salt can cause over-amperage. I've blown a fuse by forgetting to turn mine off while adding salt.
In the meantime, the one time we might recommend a pool store water test is for metals. I suspect you have iron in your well-sourced fill water. High chlorine content will make the iron turn the water green very very rapidly, which is what you describe.
If you have a store that offers testing for metals, you might take a sample to them. I wouldn't trust the numbers 100%, but if it shows iron, then it's likely this is the case.
Until we can figure out what is really going on with the water there is nothing much else you can do. Blindly adding products like a clairfier (which we almost never recommend) generally only make the problem worse as now there are two tings to fix. Clairfier has a bad habit of turning the sand in sand filters to a sticky/gummy mess. So, it's a big no.
A slightly dirty sand filter works better at capturing and filtering stuff. Only backwash when your filter pressure raises 25% over your baseline clean pressure.
Keep chlorine in the water and keep brushing and backwashing only when the pressure is up 25%
Sand Filter Use and Care - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Thank you. I’ll just keep the filter running , monitor Cl and add as needed.
I just received my Taylor K-2006C test kit. To the best of my abilities here are the water results:Until we can figure out what is really going on with the water there is nothing much else you can do. Blindly adding products like a clairfier (which we almost never recommend) generally only make the problem worse as now there are two tings to fix. Clairfier has a bad habit of turning the sand in sand filters to a sticky/gummy mess. So, it's a big no.
A slightly dirty sand filter works better at capturing and filtering stuff. Only backwash when your filter pressure raises 25% over your baseline clean pressure.
Keep chlorine in the water and keep brushing and backwashing only when the pressure is up 25%
Sand Filter Use and Care - Further Reading
Chlorine. 25ppm
pH. 7.7
TA. 140
CH. 170
CYA. 70 when black dot totally disappeared, over 100 when it just started to disappear.
I’ve been putting a gallon of 10% pool chlorine in every day for the past 3 days. It seems to be getting better. Pool is pretty clear in shallow end and light turquoise in deep end. I can see farther in deep end but not to the bottom. 8’ deep. I backwash when pressure goes up 25%.
Suggestions?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,129
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Great 
If the green is diminishing then metals weren’t likely part of the issue- just algae.
Follow the SLAM Process until u meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria as listed in the article.
Slam level for your cya is 28ppm. FC/CYA Levels
Testing frequently & replenishing fc to slam level often (every couple of hours if u can) helps the process go faster.
Be sure to check & scrub hidden areas for algae - light niches, drain covers, ladders, etc.
run water features for at least an hour every day.
SLAM ON!
If the green is diminishing then metals weren’t likely part of the issue- just algae.
Follow the SLAM Process until u meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria as listed in the article.
Slam level for your cya is 28ppm. FC/CYA Levels
Testing frequently & replenishing fc to slam level often (every couple of hours if u can) helps the process go faster.
Be sure to check & scrub hidden areas for algae - light niches, drain covers, ladders, etc.
run water features for at least an hour every day.
SLAM ON!
Wow, FC is 25...
Let's not start a SLAM just yet.
OK, tonight you will do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.
Short explanation - Two things consume chlorine. UV rays of the sun and organics like algae.
First, make sure the salt water chlorine generator is turned off. We don't want it producing chlorine.
Tonight after the sun goes down test your chlorine. Write down what it is
Tomorrow morning before the sun is on your pool test the chlorine again. If the "loss" of chlorine overnight is 1ppm or less then you don't have an issue with organics like algae. At that point we can start dealing with metals. If it is more than 1 we know it's organics and we can then start the SLAM
www.troublefreepool.com
Let's not start a SLAM just yet.
OK, tonight you will do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.
Short explanation - Two things consume chlorine. UV rays of the sun and organics like algae.
First, make sure the salt water chlorine generator is turned off. We don't want it producing chlorine.
Tonight after the sun goes down test your chlorine. Write down what it is
Tomorrow morning before the sun is on your pool test the chlorine again. If the "loss" of chlorine overnight is 1ppm or less then you don't have an issue with organics like algae. At that point we can start dealing with metals. If it is more than 1 we know it's organics and we can then start the SLAM
Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.
www.troublefreepool.com
jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Do you have an independent salt test? Like Taylor K-1766?
Since you said the cell was indicating high salt, it would be good to know what your salt level actually is, so that once we get you cleaned up & ready to turn on the SWG again, you don't have a problem there.
I'm assuming the "Chlorine" number you are giving is Free Chlorine. Did you do the CC (combined chloramines) test also? What did it show?
With a FC that high, you can ignore the pH, TA, and CH for now. The pH test at least will be bleached by the high FC level.
When doing the CYA test, fill the vial to one line and GLANCE in. Don't stare, or you will convince yourself you see the dot. Then fill to the next line and GLANCE in again...until at a GLANCE you don't see the dot. Whatever line you filled to is what the reading should be. We go by 10s. Yes, it can be between 10s, but the tube is not marked to be able to tell exactly (it is a logarithmic scale, not linear) and what is important is knowing it close enough & erring on the high side so that (1) you don't go too high with any CYA additions and (2) if anything, you overshoot the minimum FC required for your CYA level when SLAMing.
jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Also, a picture is worth 1000 words. If you can post a photo of what your water looks like, it will help us.
I measured Cl again. Free was 27 and Combined 15. On CYA, black dot a bit visible at 100 and gone at 70.
Salt generator showed Salt level at 3700.
I also have been running the filter and the Polaris vacuum almost constantly.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,888
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Given your CC results and lack of water clarity, SLAM Process
For the CYA test.
Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing better guidance based on your specific pool.
For the CYA test.
- Carefully and fully mix pool water and reagent - 50%/50%
- Fill test tube to 100 mark
- Stand in full sun with back to the sun
- Hold test tube with only 2 fingers near the top and at waist level
- Glance into tube QUICKLY
- Don't see the dot - CYA 100+, do diluted test
- Still see the dot - fill tube to 90
- Repeat 3-5 again until dot not visible at a glance - do NOT stare at it
- Once the dot isn't visible (if less than 100), take that number and add 10 to it - if can still see at 80 and not see at 70, round up to 80.
- Use FC/CYA Levels to determine FC requirements. Use the SLAM number to SLAM Process the pool.
Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing better guidance based on your specific pool.
jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You really need to test salt level independently of what the SWG tells you. Some SWGs have a true dedicated probe that should give you a real salt level, others (Hayward) do not. If it is Hayward (Goldline) or one of the private label versions, it is not measuring the salt level directly, but estimating it by voltage, amperage, and temperature. As the cell ages, it will give false readings. So definitely invest in a way to test salt independently. (Really, you should have had a salt reading before installing the system so you don't overshoot on the salt to begin with. Most people assume their water has 0ppm salt, but a byproduct of chlorine--especially liquid chlorine--is salt & so many folks find they are starting at 1000ppm or so).
As asked in the above post, please update your signature with your equipment. It helps to know which salt system & filter, etc.
As asked in the above post, please update your signature with your equipment. It helps to know which salt system & filter, etc.
jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,129
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
That high cc reading is questionable 
Have u added any “non chlorine shock” to the pool?
Also- if u let the sample sit it will turn pink again-
Once u have done your drops & the sample is clear u call it & move on.
Have u added any “non chlorine shock” to the pool?
Also- if u let the sample sit it will turn pink again-
Once u have done your drops & the sample is clear u call it & move on.