So we bought a pool last spring, It was installed last fall, filled and covered. About 3 weeks ago we opened the pool and I was overwhelmed with the vast amount of chemicals and other pool details that I needed to learn. Like most everyone I went to the local pool store and was sold Tri-Chlor tabs, shock, clarifier, algicide, etc. I was given instructions and sent on my way. I have been chasing low FC, High PH, High TA, Low CYA, etc. Then, last week I started searching on the internet and found the BBB method and eventually found this site. The problem as I understood it seemed to be that I couldn't hold FC due to low CYA. With a new pool and CYA only coming from Tri-Chlor and Shock, as I understand it I will fight FC levels until mid season when the tabs finally put enough CYA in the pool. However, that would mean that I would start to lose FC effectiveness due to higher CYA. I ordered a Taylor 2006c and a TF-Pro test kits (I know its overkill but I wanted plenty of supplies as I need to teach others how to test, and I couldn't decide between the 2 so I ordered both). The kits will be here this week so I can finally get accurate levels. I plan to use my Tri-Chlor until I get my CYA levels to 50-60, then switch to bleach. PH was at 8.4 so, instead of the pool store PH down I added muratic acid (quantity based on the TFP AP). From here on out I plan to only use Tri-Chlor (until I run out OR get my CYA levels where I want them) Bleach, Baking Soda, Borax, Muratic Acid, and aeration to keep my pool in check. I'm not sure if I am going to continue to use my shock or sell it on FB or use the SLAM method right away as needed. Lastly, I am eliminating the mineral cartridge in the nature 2 today. Any input or advice is appreciated.
New to Pools
- Thread starter pxranger
- Start date
- May 11, 2021
- 973
- Pool Size
- 7000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30
Welcome to TFP!!!
Great start ordering the test kits. The TF-100 uses the same Taylor reagents as the K-2006C. It is just repackaged. Seems you are already finding your way around TFPC.
Nothing wrong in using tablets to increase your CYA slowly, but if once you can test it you are indeed close to 0 you should add some dry stabilizer to get to at bare minimum 20/30.
Trichlor is great to have handy in case you can't attend to you pool for few days (like a vacation).
What is the Shock you got?
Great start ordering the test kits. The TF-100 uses the same Taylor reagents as the K-2006C. It is just repackaged. Seems you are already finding your way around TFPC.
Nothing wrong in using tablets to increase your CYA slowly, but if once you can test it you are indeed close to 0 you should add some dry stabilizer to get to at bare minimum 20/30.
Trichlor is great to have handy in case you can't attend to you pool for few days (like a vacation).
What is the Shock you got?
The shock is Biogard burnout 73, The Taylor kit arrived today, Unfortunately Amazon sent a K-2005C instead of the K-2006C that I ordered. Since I ordered the TF kit, I am keeping this on so I can at least start testing.
PH - 8.0 (at top of range so maybe higher?)
FC - 5
CC - 5
CYA - Range goes from 30 to 100, I can still see the dot when the tube is full, so its lower than 30
TA - 100
- May 11, 2021
- 973
- Pool Size
- 7000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30
That is Cal-Hypo. Every time you use it your CH will increase a little bit. Use it too much and your CH will go thru the roof. Here is the SDS
Use Muriatic Acid to lower your pH to 7.2. In a 25.7K Gal pool you need 90 floz of 20 baume MA to reduce your pH by 0.8
You need to increase you CYA to 30. Add Stabilizer using the sock method (Put the stabilizer in a sock and hung it in front of the return away from the wall. Squeeze the sock every 30-60min).
You will need to make an assumption on how much CYA you have in the water to calculate how much more you need. You should use PoolMath to calculate how much stabilizer to use.
TA is fine. It will come down as you adjust your pH.
- May 11, 2021
- 973
- Pool Size
- 7000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30
Maybe they are good, my target was the issue I think. I added a 4lb bag of CYA with the sock method and 90oz of Muratic acid. When is the soonest I can test again to get an accurate assessment of the additions?
- May 11, 2021
- 973
- Pool Size
- 7000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30
For the MA, about 30min, but really depends on your circulation.
CYA can be a bit trick some times. I woudln't test before 8 hours after adding it, but that's because I had bad experiences with overshoting CYA due to delayed dilution.
Tested everything except CYA as it is still disolving
FC-4
CC-4
PH-7
TA-100
CH-150
Alkalinity is high, I assume my PH will rise over the next few days. So if I understand correctly, if TA stays at 100 or more then I just wait for PH to rise or use aeration to speed it up and then use muratic acid to bring PH back to 7 and repeat the process as necessary until TA is in the acceptable range.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,581
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
CYA can take a couple of days to register on the tests.
Unless you have a pressing need, you can ignore TA except to know what it is (because it will affect how much acid is added to lower your pH). Liquid chlorine is pH neutral. Over time your pH will rise from general aeration and use, and you will add acid to bring it down, which will lower both pH and TA. Eventually it will either hit a sweet spot where the pH won't change much, or your TA will go below 50 and you'll have to add some baking soda to bring it back up.
Unless you have a pressing need, you can ignore TA except to know what it is (because it will affect how much acid is added to lower your pH). Liquid chlorine is pH neutral. Over time your pH will rise from general aeration and use, and you will add acid to bring it down, which will lower both pH and TA. Eventually it will either hit a sweet spot where the pH won't change much, or your TA will go below 50 and you'll have to add some baking soda to bring it back up.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,581
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60