New to Pools

[etho77]

I'll see if I can pick a salt kit locally.

Levels today are:

PH 7.8
CYA 30
FC 20
CC 0

I haven't added chlorine, water is looking better.

 

[Jezza]

Sounds like the SLAM is going well.

Clearchoicelabs an Australian company do a version of the K-1766. Just look them up online.

Don't worry about testing for pH in SLAM mode. It won't read accurately over 10 FC.

 

[steveb21]

Are you sure you added the initial chlorine level correctly?

Going by poolmath and on your readings of:

520000 Litres
FC = 1

To shock to 20 using 12.5 liquid chlorine you would have required to add 7.9 litres (not the 12 litres you added). Maybe this is why you overshot on the FC reading.

Ok so PH is down to 7.3
CYA is 1ppm - typo CYA is 50
FC 1ppm
CC 0

based on this my unsdstanding is that I should shock to FC of 20, is this correct?
I have addd 12 litres of liquid chlorine and have the pump, and solar pump running

Just checked FC its at 26.5

Yes not sure why the FC jumped so much, possibly an error on my part.
Gave everything a good scrub and will continue to do so. Come the weekend I will be able spend a bit more time on it during daylight hours.

 

[etho77]

I think you are right, I just checked the calculator and it defaulted to 6% rather than 12.5.
I will check levels again in the morning.

Thanks for for pointing this out

 

[etho77]

This mornings CYA 30, FC 18, no chlorine added
i have scrubbed the pool and a quick vac and will check levels again in a couple of hours

 

[etho77]

CYA 30
FC 16.5

should I Be adding any chlorine at this stage?

 

[Texas Splash]

No. With a CYA of 30, your SLAM level is "12" so you're good. Anything too far over the SLAM level is just wasting bleach. Now is pool maintenance (scrubbing/sweeping), filtering, and backwashing. Don't overlook inspecting any areas that can hide algae (behind lights, inside ladder/steps, etc). Oh, and simply time. That's the tough one.

 

[etho77]

FC 12
CC 0
CYA at 30 dot is slightly visable
TA 90
CH 200

 

[etho77]

FC still 12
CYA at 30, dot slightly visible

 

[etho77]

FC 11.5
CYA at 30, dot still visible

 

[etho77]

 

[etho77]

My SWG is reading low, going by the manual it operates best between 4000 and 6000ppm.
Given that it is reading low am I safe to add enough salt to raise 1000ppm at a time? Using the pool math that works out to 52kg, should I add this now or wait for the FC to drop?

should I now look at raising my CYA? It's winter here at the moment so the pool won't be getting much sun, and won't be used until later in the year now.

I would like like to maintain the pool over winter to get used to what I am doing so should I adjust all levels now?

Thanks.

 

[Jezza]

Just not sure if you have completely finished the SLAM? Does your water look crystal clear like you can read a head or tail on a 10c piece in the deep end clear- I'm not sure if it's just the photo but the water still looks a little cloudy to me. That being the case then don't add anything other than chlorine just yet and keep SLAMming.

Once you are happy that you have fully completed the SLAM, at this time of the year your SWG will start to struggle with the cooler weather and then it is easier to run your pool with liquid chlorine (just turn your SWG right down to '0') and run it as a non-SWG pool. In which case you only want to run your CYA up to 50 max and it may be best to run it even closer to 30. If you have to backwash the overflow from the rain then you could be adding some a couple of times over winter. Once your pH goes below 10 then you can retest and re-adjust pH if required and then TA and CH.

Once you confirm that you have completed the SLAM, you can add the salt in and mix it around to dissolve it. It's not a bad idea to run the pump with the SWG off for a while after you add it but if you have to continue to backwash your filter while you are in SLAM mode you'll be tipping it down the drain so to speak.

 

[etho77]

Water appears to be clear.
Ive just tested FC tonight and it's at 10.5, filter was off for most of the day.

 

[etho77]

I have a valve handle for the water feature that has gone brittle and broken, am I able to replace the handle only or will I need to replace the whole valve?

thanks,