New to Pools, Followed pool store directions, but now I’m worried.

[C_is_for_Cats]

Hello all! I purchased a house with a pool in November and started going to the local pool store immediately. Several weeks of tests and they determined I needed to drain and refill my pool due to a high TDS reading. Per their recommendation we waited until spring to drain and refill it. After pumping then filling the pool 1/4 to 1/3 at a time… the store employees are telling me to keep replacing the water. I’m skeptical and currently waiting for my Taylor K-2006C test kit to come in.

I’d love some guidance because I feel like I’m being duped by the store employees, especially from the little I’ve read here so far. I did the local stores “pool school” but it wasn’t very helpful and he didn’t spend much time explaining our equipment, just telling us stories of crazy pool stuff he’s seen. Here’s some information about my pool, including the paper the previous owners left me. I also include a picture of today’s pool store results.

The pool is on ground, relatively small.
I think the pool school guy estimated it at 7500 gallons.
Per the previous owners it’s ceramic over fiberglass.
I’m in Las Vegas, NV, with some of the hardest water in the country. We do have a water softening system.

Let me know if there’s any other information you need. All help is appreciated!!

 

[Texas Splash]

I’d love some guidance because I feel like I’m being duped by the store employees, especially from the little I’ve read here so far.

Welcome to TFP! As a Vegas native myself, I can attest to the hard water. But you have the K-2006 test kit on its way so don't do anything based on those store tests or advice. Get very familiar with the link below and you'll be a step ahead of the game. It's all about accurate testing, proper chemicals, and no waste. Also be sure to sign up for the PoolMath APP. It comes in very handy. For now, just be sure to not rely on chlorine tabs or powders, just add about 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine each day. Also be sure you have some muriatic acid ready to control pH. Store the acid somewhere outside away from everything else. We'll talk chemicals more later. Once you get the kit, post a full set of results and we'll walk you though it.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[an1vrsy]

Welcome to TFP! Congratulations on your new home with a pool. Honestly, you can do this. TFP is the best site for pool owners. I am not a Las Vegas native but I've lived here since the end of 2019.

One thing that will help the mods and guides here are photos. Lots of them. haha No seriously, take photos of the pool equipment pad and pool, post the photos and they can talk you through pretty much any question you can ask. Pull up a chair, read the forums and the link the Texas Splash posted above.

 

[C_is_for_Cats]

Welcome to TFP! As a Vegas native myself, I can attest to the hard water. But you have the K-2006 test kit on its way so don't do anything based on those store tests or advice. Get very familiar with the link below and you'll be a step ahead of the game. It's all about accurate testing, proper chemicals, and no waste. Also be sure to sign up for the PoolMath APP. It comes in very handy. For now, just be sure to not rely on chlorine tabs or powders, just add about 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine each day. Also be sure you have some muriatic acid ready to control pH. Store the acid somewhere outside away from everything else. We'll talk chemicals more later. Once you get the kit, post a full set of results and we'll walk you though it.

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you so much! I started adding the chlorine today and luckily we already have some muriatic acid as well. I’ll be reading those recommended articles and impatiently waiting for the test kit to come in!

 

[C_is_for_Cats]

Welcome to TFP! Congratulations on your new home with a pool. Honestly, you can do this. TFP is the best site for pool owners. I am not a Las Vegas native but I've lived here since the end of 2019.

One thing that will help the mods and guides here are photos. Lots of them. haha No seriously, take photos of the pool equipment pad and pool, post the photos and they can talk you through pretty much any question you can ask. Pull up a chair, read the forums and the link the Texas Splash posted above.

Okay, here are the results from my first test!

Free chlorine: 5.6 ppm
Combined chlorine: 0 (didn't turn pink)
pH: 8.0, 3 drops took it to 7.4
Total Alkalinity: between 150-175ppm (using the 25 x number of drops, the sample was clear at 6 drops and went to red at 7 drops).
Calcium Hardness: I think the test read 360ppm, the sample went from red to purple starting at 32 drops but didn't get to blue blue until 36 drops, using the 10 x number of drops test)
CYA: I'm worried this one is either really bad or I messed up the test. I never got the black dot to disappear.

Not sure if this information will help, but our pool temp is currently between 65 and 68 degrees. I know I read that average temp is higher, around 78. Does the cooler temperature risk affecting the results?
I'm also planning on running each of these tests again tomorrow, to hopefully rule out any inaccuracies from user error.

 

[Newdude]

Hey @C_is_for_Cats and Welcome !!!

@cookie.monster might have some qualms about your username.

Get a repeat of the CYA once the bright sun. (Back to it, tube at belt buckle) If the googley eye laughs at you the whole time, your CYA is 0-10 (ish). You will want to add 20 per poolmath to protect the FC from the sun. It takes some time to dissolve and mix so we will.come back to this if needed.

If you keep the FC in target range, we have time to figure everything else out. You will lose some FC to the sun and to swimmers. You add it back each day and are good to go until tomorrow, plus some wiggle room just in case. It's literally that simple.

Manage the PH by adding MA at 8+ down to 7.2 per pool math. The TA will come down over time.

 

[Newdude]

Fill the CYA test tube to the 10s only. The numbers don't line up between 10s and we round up any 1-9. Don't stare at the tube. An instant flash of a glance. More than that and your brain sees it regardless.

 

[C_is_for_Cats]

Hey @C_is_for_Cats and Welcome !!!

@cookie.monster might have some qualms about your username.

Get a repeat of the CYA once the bright sun. (Back to it, tube at belt buckle) If the googley eye laughs at you the whole time, your CYA is 0-10 (ish). You will want to add 20 per poolmath to protect the FC from the sun. It takes some time to dissolve and mix so we will.come back to this if needed.

If you keep the FC in target range, we have time to figure everything else out. You will lose some FC to the sun and to swimmers. You add it back each day and are good to go until tomorrow, plus some wiggle room just in case. It's literally that simple.

Manage the PH by adding MA at 8+ down to 7.2 per pool math. The TA will come down over time.

I’ll be sure to redo the CYA test tomorrow using your tips, thanks! Is my FC within range for now? The previous owners left solar sun rings for us to keep on the pool. Supposedly they’ll help minimize sun exposure and keep the temp up. Not sure if it actually works but since they were free I won’t complain too much haha.
I’ll start working on the pH today and hopefully tomorrow will give me a better idea of my CYA and FC needs.

Thank you so much for your help, I’m already miles ahead of where I was when I was dealing with the local pool store employees!

 

[Newdude]

Is my FC within range for now

FC/CYA Levels

Technically with next to no CYA, your FC is high right now. But with nothing to protect it from the sun, it will burn off in an hour or two. It's also not stupid hot out yet, so you have that working in your favor.

But test twice or more a day until there is some CYA in there. Say, lunchtime and after dinner. You won't lose anything once the sun goes down.

Switch to the 10 ml sample for FC. Each drop is 1/2 FC. The whole # is important one. I don't give a hoot that it's a 2 point 5 or a 2 point 8. The *2* part gives me the Willie's. I similarly don't give a hoot about a 7.5 because I was happy as a clam at the 7

The previous owners left solar sun rings for us to keep on the pool. Supposedly they’ll help minimize sun exposure and keep the temp up

Any type of cover stops evaporation which is where 70% of your heat loss comes from. By not losing as much heat overnight, tomorrow looks like 'gains'. Those rings are neat because they are so much easier than a full (cough PITA cough) cover. But they leave a lot of water uncovered so they don't work as well. Still tho, every little bit helps and they were free.

I’ll start working on the pH today and hopefully tomorrow will give me a better idea of my CYA and FC needs.

It may take a few days for the PH to creep up. Aerating will bring it up, like running the returns. Aim them higher to disturb the surface real good. Then at 8, smack it back down to 7.2. Each cycle should lower the TA by 10. Once you get under 100, the TA will find where it will remain stable. So only manage the PH and the TA will handle itself.

Thank you so much for your help, I’m already miles ahead of where I was when I was dealing with the local pool store employees

Very few folks found themselves here in a good way. None of us forget because it SUCKED. We got you.

 

[ajw22]

@Newdude there is no reason he needs to smack down his TA. He has a fiberglass/ceramic pool with no SWG. CSI really does not matter much to him. A high TA has little effect.

@C_is_for_Cats Manage your pH and not your TA. Keep your pH in the mid to high 7s and your TA will come down in time, maybe with your high TA fill water. Or not, and it is ok. No reason to do extra monkey work.

Turn on CSI in PoolMath and keep your CSI below 0 if you can. As your CH rises you will need to keep your pH lower to prevent scaling. We can discuss more when it becomes difficult to keep your CSI below 0.

 

[Newdude]

It's a fair point Cat's. Whether you choose to take the slow way, or the slow-er way. That's how little concern the TA should be. Stop and smell the flowers on your journey. There is no rush.

 

[C_is_for_Cats]

@Newdude there is no reason he needs to smack down his TA. He has a fiberglass/ceramic pool with no SWG. CSI really does not matter much to him. A high TA has little effect.

@C_is_for_Cats Manage your pH and not your TA. Keep your pH in the mid to high 7s and your TA will come down in time, maybe with your high TA fill water. Or not, and it is ok. No reason to do extra monkey work.

Turn on CSI in PoolMath and keep your CSI below 0 if you can. As your CH rises you will need to keep your pH lower to prevent scaling. We can discuss more when it becomes difficult to keep your CSI below 0.

Just turned on the CSI feature and with today’s readings I’m at 0.03!

 

[C_is_for_Cats]

Today’s test results:



After following the instructions about reading CYA, it looks like it’s around 20 rather than 0!

Luckily the previous owners left chlorine stabilizer, so I’ll start adding some today. Does it matter if I add it before or after adding liquid chlorine?

 

[ajw22]

Does it matter if I add it before or after adding liquid chlorine?

No.