New test kit

[Julz13julz]

Since pool was built we have been using tricolor tabs with auto in line feeder.

Yesterday 1st results

FC: 1
CC: .5
CH:300 Ppm
TA:90
CYA:100
Ph:7.6

Don't know how to empty water or drain...



21,000 gallons (pool and spa), IG, pebble tec, filter: cartridge, pentair clean&clear plus CCP520, pentair Master Temp 400 heater, Pentair model 320 Rainbow auto chlorine inline feeder (3” 89% Trichlor tabs), Dallas,TX, built in 2016.NEW POOL OWNER
New TF-100 test keep in touch:6/1/18

 

[mknauss]

Your CYA may be well above 100.

Follow Step 8 in Pool School - CYA

Post up your results after doing the above.

 

[Texas Splash]

Since you know your CYA is high, at this point it would be best to do a diluted CYA test as seen on the Pool School - CYA page starting at step #8. From there you might find your CYA closer to 120, 140 or more. Whatever the case, exchange enough water to bring the CYA down to about 50 or so. The PoolMath can help you with that. But basic math, if the CAY is 120, 50% water exchange cuts it in half to 60.

You have a cartridge filter I believe, so no way to backwash to waste to remove water unless the installers added a spigot right after your pump (before the filter), or you have some other "outlet" to allow water to leave. If not, you'll need to use a small submersible pump to remove water. You'll want to do that as soon as you can because your FC level is way too low as well. In fact, I hate to waste bleach (if you start draining today), but it's hot. You need bleach in there ASAP. Grab some regular bleach and increase that FC to about 7-9 for now just to keep algae from hitting you. After the water exchange, then you can re-test and adjust all the levels again. But lowering that CYA is key right now.

Remember, those chlorine tabs in the feeder, those are increasing your CYA by the hour. Remove them please and save them for a vacation or something when you're away. Never use tabs for normal daily chlorination unless your CYA is already very low.

 

[Julz13julz]

I can take a photo. To help me with the draining...

21,000 gallons (pool and spa), IG, pebble tec, filter: cartridge, pentair clean&clear plus CCP520, pentair Master Temp 400 heater, Pentair model 320 Rainbow auto chlorine inline feeder (3” 89% Trichlor tabs), Dallas,TX, built in 2016.NEW POOL OWNER
New TF-100 test kit: 6/1/18

 

[Julz13julz]

The kids are in it now
Can i still add bleach where they are not swimming?


21,000 gallons (pool and spa), IG, pebble tec, filter: cartridge, pentair clean&clear plus CCP520, pentair Master Temp 400 heater, Pentair model 320 Rainbow auto chlorine inline feeder (3” 89% Trichlor tabs), Dallas,TX, built in 2016.NEW POOL OWNER
New TF-100 test kit: 6/1/18

 

[Texas Splash]

Ahhh you DO have a spigot! Nice. With your FC that low and kids in the water, I'd offer them a drink and some snacks for about 15-20 and get some bleach in there. Even if you can't get too high yet, at least a gallon in that pool or it get hazy really fast. Pour near returns with pump on high and it will be fine in about 12-20 minutes.

 

[Julz13julz]

Ok
Will try the diluted test


21,000 gallons (pool and spa), IG, pebble tec, filter: cartridge, pentair clean&clear plus CCP520, pentair Master Temp 400 heater, Pentair model 320 Rainbow auto chlorine inline feeder (3in 89% Trichlor tabs), Dallas,TX, built in 2016.NEW POOL OWNER
New TF-100 test kit: 6/1/18

 

[Julz13julz]

Ok
I turned off the inline trichlor feeder on the dial. Then I added the liquid chlorine per pool math.
But, I did not remove the pucks (as we will be going out of town for most of June).

I am thinking that if we empty and refill (still don’t know how to do that- but can figure that later), when we are on vacation and use the pucks, we will be back in same position.

1. Over the hot Texas summer, if I stop with the pucks, will the cya eventually drop slowly?

2. If I turn the trichlor chlorinator dial to ‘off’ do I still have to remove the pucks? Or will they dissolve slowly if they are left in the tube?

Thanks!




21,000 gallons (pool and spa), IG, pebble tec, filter: cartridge, pentair clean&clear plus CCP520, pentair Master Temp 400 heater, Pentair model 320 Rainbow auto chlorine inline feeder (3in 89% Trichlor tabs), Dallas,TX, built in 2016.NEW POOL OWNER
New TF-100 test kit: 6/1/18

 

[mknauss]

Did you do the diluted CYA test? Results?

CYA will drop about 3-5 ppm per month during the summer due to oxidation. Not enough to bother.

It is preferable to remove the pucks. The acidic stew in the tube without any water flow for an extended period of time is not good for the equipment.

If you are interested in draining, there is an alternative.

You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same.

 

[Julz13julz]

Sorry didn’t do he diluted test yet.
Will do today.

But my thoughts on the draining and refillingbesides not knowing what a sump pump is LOL-
I’m a business women and mom- trying to learn this stuff) is that we will be gone for most of June, would it be wasteful to do that if the pucks have to be there for June. Maybe we should wait to do the refill in July...?

In the mean time, I can remove the pucks and do the liquid chlorine (which I added last night- that I found at Walmart) in the mean time- when I’m in town. But then do the water exchange later, to avoid having to re-do...

Thoughts?


21,000 gallons (pool and spa), IG, pebble tec, filter: cartridge, pentair clean&clear plus CCP520, pentair Master Temp 400 heater, Pentair model 320 Rainbow auto chlorine inline feeder (3in 89% Trichlor tabs), Dallas,TX, built in 2016.NEW POOL OWNER
New TF-100 test kit: 6/1/18

 

[Texas Splash]

would it be wasteful to do that if the pucks have to be there for June.

Not at all, in fact better. Right now your CYA is very high. We know that. You cannot keep enough chlorine in the pool to compensate for that really high CYA. See what I mean on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]? So by lowering the CYA now you do two things:
1 - Allow yourself to maintain an easier FC level at a lower CYA, and if you get algae treat it more efficiently
2 - Give yourself wiggle room to use pucks while you're gone without the increased risk of returning to a swamp.

The sooner you lower the CYA the better. As Marty said you can get a sump pump, which is basically a submersible pump you can get at just about any hardware store or on-line. Doesn't have to be ridiculously huge (Gallons per Minute), or massive 1 inch diameter outputs. Just something you can drop in the deep end (with hose to drain), set a timer, and forget about it for a while. You could use that spigot after the pump (attach a garden hose), but it could take a while longer. Kind of slow. I know, I have one too.