New Pump, Please Review Plumbing Plan

[wcodyd]

Hello-

I'm replacing a single speed AO Smith 2.20 Total HP single speed pump (ST1152). Unfortunately, I purchased a new pump before I did much research. The new pump, which I've already received, is the Hayward SP3202VSP. It is a variable speed pump.

I'm semi-handy with electrical and plumbing. I'm trying to replace the full pump (motor and housing) and some of the plumbing myself.

I have a 30K gallon in-ground pool. It has two skimmers, a drain at the deep end, and four returns. All of the current piping is 1.5”.

I’ve enclosed a picture of the piping on the pad (excuse the partially disassembled pump housing--all of the pump and housing is being replaced).




Plan:

I’ll cut-off the 1.5” suction side pipes on the left-side of the valves (so I don’t have to replace the valves) and install a 2” to 1.5” PVC reducer. I’ll then add two 2” elbows and a 2” tee and a straight 2” PVC into the new pump. On the return side of the pump, I’ll simply use a 2” to 1.5” PVC reducer and use the existing piping.

Does this plan make sense? Is it worth replacing the 90” elbow (and therefore the valves) that you see coming up from the ground (essentially, I’d replace all above-ground pipe on the suction side with 2”).

Thanks so much for your help. Any advice/suggestions is greatly appreciated.

 

[DeanP66]

It depends on how well your two ball valves currently work. Those type of ball valves get much harder to turn over time and the handles usually usually end up breaking off because of the sticky valves. You might be better off with a 3 way Jandy valve although it's more expensive. If you used the Jandy valve, you could gain several inches of straight pipe running into the pump, which is better for the pump because it causes less turbulence.

You made a great choice for your new VS pump. That's the same one I just installed a few months ago and I'm very happy with it. It does require 2" pipe or a 2.5" coupler on the outside but it looks like you're already aware of that.

 

[domct203]

Welcome to the forum!

I would most definitely swap out those two ball valves for a Jandy 3-way, as well as replace that 'sweep 90' on the line from the pump to the filter with a proper SCH40 90. That is a drain/waste/vent fitting and is not pressure rated.

 

[wcodyd]

Welcome to the forum!

I would most definitely swap out those two ball valves for a Jandy 3-way, as well as replace that 'sweep 90' on the line from the pump to the filter with a proper SCH40 90. That is a drain/waste/vent fitting and is not pressure rated.

Thank you both. I'll replace the ball valves with a 3-way Jandy. I'm also going to install a check valve between the 3-way Jandy and the pump. I'll install another check valve between the chlorinator and the DE filter. Does this placement of check valves make sense?

Finally, what do you mean by "...replace that 'sweep 90' on the line from the pump to the filter with a proper SCH40 90"?
I'll need to replace it anyways but I was planning to replace with new pipe and fittings but ultimately the same type of design.

Again, thank you!

 

[domct203]

....... Finally, what do you mean by "...replace that 'sweep 90' on the line from the pump to the filter with a proper SCH40 90"?
I'll need to replace it anyways but I was planning to replace with new pipe and fittings but ultimately the same type of design.

Again, thank you!

The fittings I circled in red are not pressure rated fittings. They are made for drain/waste/vent systems where there is no system pressure. The plastic is not as strong as SCH40 fittings, and the engagement between parts is half the area of SCH40. If you look at the sweep and threaded adapter I circled you can see how short the glue joint is compared to the SCH40 elbows and adapters, it's almost half the joint of a SCH40 fitting.