New pump not turning on unless automation is bypassed.

[Hallcoreyd]

SNAFU

I have Hayward ProLogic (PL-PS-8) automation and a Hayward Tristar (2hp) pump which replaced a Hayward Northstar (2hp).

Friday my Northstar stopped working. Capacitor had a burnt hole in it like there was an electrical arc that went through it. I bought another capacitor, but go no response from the pump when I tried to turn it on at the control panel. I assumed it was the motor, so I went to buy a replacement and ultimately decided just to spend the extra money and buy a new pump all together.

Installed and turned it on at the control panel, but again... nothing. Booster pump also not turning on at the control panel.

I wired the pump directly to the breaker and it runs fine. Booster pump also works wired directly to breaker.

I checked the main board and the board for the control panel, and don't see any obvious hot spots. I checked and replaced the fuses on the main board just for good measure.

Before I keep chasing this problem and drop another $500 on a new main board, what would you guys suggest I do?

I'm learning, sometimes it comes at great expense, but I'm learning.... Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Jimrahbe]

H,

I know nothing about your Hayward system, but VS pumps are generally controlled by an RS-485 cable. I assume you connected the cable, but suspect that the automation is no longer "talking" to the pump because something is not set up correctly. I would take a look at the manual for your new pump and confirm that the RS-485 connection is set up correctly.

Let's see if we can get one of our Hayward guys to chime in...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Hallcoreyd]

Jim, thanks for your reply. I'm seeing that when I created my account I listed that I had a VS pump, but I was mistaken and actually had a single speed. Also, unfortunately I didn't do my homework and rushed into buying a new pump and didn't go with a variable speed.

I apologize for the confusion, my signature is now updated.

 

[Jimrahbe]

H,

If the pump is a single speed pump, then it has to be controlled by the Automation through a relay... Most likely something called "Pump/Filter relay. The automation needs to close the Pump/Filter relay for the pump to work.

The first thing to do is find the pump/filter relay and measure the line (input) side of the contacts to see if you have 240 volts.. And then the Load side (output) to see if you have 240 VAC...

Not sure that helps at all... Do you have voltmeter?

How are you "bypassing" the automation?

Show us some pics.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Hallcoreyd]

I will check the voltage and add pictures as soon as I get home. I bypassed the automation by wiring the pump and booster pump directly into the breaker on the panel. I assume running the pump for a little bit would be fine like this just to circulate water, but haven't due to the fear of another costly SNAFU.

 

[Hallcoreyd]

Here’s what I inherited. This is without the pump wired directly into the breaker. The voltage read 240 on both input and output. I’m going to run some more voltage tests as per Hayward, but I’m thinking it’s going to be a main board issue.

 

[Hallcoreyd]

H,

If the pump is a single speed pump, then it has to be controlled by the Automation through a relay... Most likely something called "Pump/Filter relay. The automation needs to close the Pump/Filter relay for the pump to work.

The first thing to do is find the pump/filter relay and measure the line (input) side of the contacts to see if you have 240 volts.. And then the Load side (output) to see if you have 240 VAC...

Not sure that helps at all... Do you have voltmeter?

How are you "bypassing" the automation?

Show us some pics.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thank you for your help Jim. It ended up being the main board, I replaced it and everything is running as it should. Wish it would have been something a little less expensive, but at least I gained the knowledge of how to test voltage on different components.