New Pool Plumbing Layout

mas985 said:
Equal length plumbing is not that big a deal. Between the side suctions, yes, but for the returns , not a biggie. If you extend the return line by a foot or two beyond the more distant return and cap it, the returns will equalize. I see mas985 had the same idea.

That isn't quite what I had in mind. Capping one end of the line won't really help any to equalize the returns. I was suggesting using a loop where both ends of the pipe along the pool feeding the returns are connected to the main return pipe via a tee. Ideally the tee is halfway between the two end returns with each end of the tee feeding the outer two most returns.

However, if you are trying to make the paths to each return have the same head loss, you need to take the fittings into consideration. Each fitting type has an equivalent length of head loss. But because you have three returns, there will be an imbalance due to that as well unless you can find a three way split. One option is to split the line once with a direct route to the furthest return and a second split going to the closest two returns. But because one return has one split and the other two have two splits, the single split return needs to have an extra 12' of 2" pipe to compensate for the split it doesn't have. Then each of the three paths would have approximately the same head loss. If the single split line has an extra 90, then it would only need 6' of extra 2" line (45s are about 3' of 2" pipe). So depending on how you lay out the plumbing you can usually make the head loss close to equal.


Many thanks for doing the pics, that was very kind of you.
I will do the first of your diagrams as it is neater and there is no possibility of uneven flow with that set up.

And many thanks to everyone for your thorough input, you lot are great, I really appreciate all of your help
 
I don't see anything that would require a check valve. You usually use check valves when there is a spa with a different water level, or when the equipment pad is more than one or two feet above normal water level.
 
Another reason for a check valve would be for solar. Normally placed right after the filter to prevent back flow through the filter.
 
I noticed in some pics on here, that during the build there is a pipe coming out of the top of the skimmer in an inverted U. I am guessing this is for pressure testing? I probably wont be connecting the pool plumbing around the pool to the pump on the pad until after the backfill as I am concerned that the backfilling/excavator might damage the horizontal pipes as none of the pipes will be going to ground level around the pool for ease of access later if needed and so there is no risk of damage from the weight of backfill pulling down on the pipework. I am putting the pipes through the meshed/mortared buttresses as ferrocement is impossible to attach clamps etc to.
I am hoping to be able to temporarily hook up the pump to the plumbing around the pool to test that before it is buried? Either way, what is the best way to pressure test before the pool is filled?
 
Yes, the loop in the skimmer is for pressure testing. Normally, the PB leaves all the returns and suction ports caped but all connected through a header at the pad without the equipment connected. The PB can then pressurize the closed system and see if it leaks over time using a pressure gauge plumbed with the lines. You could leave it this way while they backfill to make sure nothing is damaged.
 
mas985 said:
Yes, the loop in the skimmer is for pressure testing. Normally, the PB leaves all the returns and suction ports caped but all connected through a header at the pad without the equipment connected. The PB can then pressurize the closed system and see if it leaks over time using a pressure gauge plumbed with the lines. You could leave it this way while they backfill to make sure nothing is damaged.

This is not something I could do myself then?
I don't suppose any of the plumbers here have ever done this before. I will probably need to fill them in on the skimmer U and header arrangement, please could you fill me in?
 
There is not much to it. On the pool side, every return, main drain, and skimmer has a cap and/or plug of some sort. For skimmers that are also attached to the main drain, the loop is used. This seals off the pool side.

On the equipment/pad side all of the plumbing from the pool is connected to a single header line via tees. This will be removed after the test. On one end of the header, a hose spigot is plumbed, on the other a pressure gauge is plumbed.

If your water system has at least 35 PSI of pressure and preferably 45 PSI, you can then pressurize the plumbing with a garden hose spigot to spigot with an adapter. If it doesn't have enough pressure, you can use an air compressor to pressurize the lines. Let it go at least 24 hours or more.

Pad equipment does not need to be pressure tested since it is above ground and you can easily see water leaks and air leaks.
 
I have never heard that but perhaps that is the way they make them down under. I think all skimmers sold here are PVC.
 

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You don't necessarily need fast setting just wait until it is dry. However, the Oatey clear sold here is also used for pressure and it has worked well for me in the past but I am not sure it is available in your area.

hmm....... seems your post disappeared.
 
Just received my Never Lube Jandy valves and I must say they are a thing of beauty; you Americans sure know how to make a valve.
Not sure I want to put anything nasty like pipe cement in them however.......
 
Can anyone please advise on the best depth from the water line for the wall suctions and returns?

Just received my order for clear pipe cement, its Christy's Amigo and says it is 'Very fast' so I'm a bit worried it will be too fast for me.
its from California; is it ok to use?

thanks
 
Christy's Amigo is good for pool use with PVC. There are other brands that work with a mixture of PVC and ABS, which Christy's Amigo does not.

Return height is fairly flexible, the only crucial constraint is that they be at least a few inches below the lowest normal water level. 9" to 15" below ideal water level is a common range. There are some small advantages to putting wall suctions as low as practical, though again there is no perfect depth.
 
ok thanks guys.
I read that some skimmers are abs and some have the bottom section in pvc.
Anyone know if the bottom section of the Waterco Supaskimmer is abs or pvc?

Hey Solarboy, I could go for a 3/4 hp pump but Pentair told me that with 50mm pipe, 2 suctions, a big skimmer and 3 returns, they thought 1hp would be safer although I would add that the power usage is 2.6 amps v 3 amps which would save a bit. I suppose it depends on my head loss.
 
Just found this on the Waterco site: "All Waterco Skimmer Boxes are manufactured using the highest quality, impact resistant thermoplastic
(ABS plastic)".

It's amazing how in every nook and cranny of pool building there is some little detail waiting to mess the whole thing up!
 
Waterco said just use ordinary pvc cement but all the advice I can find on the net says never do this for ABS to PVC.
Cant find ABS to PVC cement suitable for pressure systems anyway. How do the pro's deal with this does anyone know?
 

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