So, I went on a week long work trip and come home to find my wife and her mother have bought a new 30' above ground pool, hence the thread title. So they install it and we fill it in about 18 hrs off two houses (city water), and it looks like a stock pond. The iron levels in the water are crazy, my filter (cartridge) has been a bright red each time I have cleaned it. With that said, we are taking a water sample to the pool store it was purchased, mainly to make use of the $75 credit they give with a pool purchase. Question is what is suggested after the initial, pool store recommended, chemical treatment? (ie. Which testing kit, can someone here recommend chemicals based on said kit, bleach vs chlorine, etc.) Thanks in advance.
New Pool Owner
- Thread starter steele_07
- Start date
According to the pool store test, there are no metals present. PH is 7.7, but there are phosphates in the water. Store clerk sent home phosphate remover and shock. I'm confused because when we were filling, before I turn the pump on, the water was relatively clear but had a red sediment on the bottom, which I assumed was iron, but the pool store test says otherwise. Can a high phosphate level cause the red/brown sediment?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,028
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- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello and welcome TFP! 
Well, if you read enough threads here, we don't have any faith in pool store testing. Sometimes we suggest having it tested at the store for metals, but even then it's not guaranteed to be accurate. Something I would be curious to try ..... fill-up a container with that same fill water from the hose and add about a cap-full of bleach. Is there a reaction? Does it cause any iron to precipitate out or change the color of the water? If so, then you can bet it's iron. You might also place a towel over the hose end to see if it catches any of the sediment. Maybe something will stand-out that way as well.
If you still have the store credit about the only thing I would recommend buying at the pool store is muriatic acid. Everything else is a waste if money. New water has 3 immediate needs:
1 - Add stabilizer (CYA) to a minimum target of 30
2 - Add a small amount of FC (chlorine - aka regular bleach) on day 1 for an FC goal of about 2-3 ppm. After the stabilizer is dissolved in the water, increase FC to about 5.
3 - Ensure pH is in the mid-7s. If you confirm iron, keep the pH on the lower side about 7.2-7.4.
Having your own (proper) test kit is a major issue. We recommend the TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006C. That's a must. Any advice provided here is based on reliable results from one of those kits. If it does turn-out to be iron, you'll want to get very familiar with the TFP Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains page. If it's just local dirt, then you dodged huge bullet and simply need to clean it up and perhaps do a "SLAM" (link below).
Hope that helps. Nice to have you with us.
Well, if you read enough threads here, we don't have any faith in pool store testing. Sometimes we suggest having it tested at the store for metals, but even then it's not guaranteed to be accurate. Something I would be curious to try ..... fill-up a container with that same fill water from the hose and add about a cap-full of bleach. Is there a reaction? Does it cause any iron to precipitate out or change the color of the water? If so, then you can bet it's iron. You might also place a towel over the hose end to see if it catches any of the sediment. Maybe something will stand-out that way as well. If you still have the store credit about the only thing I would recommend buying at the pool store is muriatic acid. Everything else is a waste if money. New water has 3 immediate needs:
1 - Add stabilizer (CYA) to a minimum target of 30
2 - Add a small amount of FC (chlorine - aka regular bleach) on day 1 for an FC goal of about 2-3 ppm. After the stabilizer is dissolved in the water, increase FC to about 5.
3 - Ensure pH is in the mid-7s. If you confirm iron, keep the pH on the lower side about 7.2-7.4.
Having your own (proper) test kit is a major issue. We recommend the TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006C. That's a must. Any advice provided here is based on reliable results from one of those kits. If it does turn-out to be iron, you'll want to get very familiar with the TFP Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains page. If it's just local dirt, then you dodged huge bullet and simply need to clean it up and perhaps do a "SLAM" (link below).
Hope that helps. Nice to have you with us.
Thanks for the reply, I went ahead and exhausted the store credit on the phosphate remover and shock so I wouldn't have to go back. Would u recommend to go ahead and use those as instructed and then proceed with my own testing and treatment?
- Jun 22, 2014
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- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Well, regardless of metal content (if any), your water must have CYA, FC, and have the pH adjusted. So I would do those 3 things noted above. I would suspect that "if" that is iron, you'll see some changes occur once you add bleach and increase the FC level. Perhaps ice tea or green colors. But who knows? You might just have soil sediment that got in the lines. If we learn that it is iron, then you can begin metals treatment concepts as noted on the TFP Metals page.
Also, at some point, please update your signature so that your pool info shows-up on each post. It will help us a lot as we review your posts and try to help.
Also, at some point, please update your signature so that your pool info shows-up on each post. It will help us a lot as we review your posts and try to help.
Since my last post, I added a bottle of phosphate remover tuesday, 7 lbs of Shock, and 12 oz of clarifier wednesday. I received my TF100 test kit today and ran the numbers, here are the results:
FC-0
pH~7.8
CH-100
TA-140
CYA-0
The water is relatively clear but seems to have a slight cloudiness in the bottom foot or so. I am about to head out for chemicals but my dilemma is that I ran the numbers in poolmath, which is telling me to shock it to a FC level of 10 but that's assuming the CYA remains 0. So, do I follow the instructions for adding bleach for my target of 5 or shock to 10 if I am going to add stabilizer?
FC-0
pH~7.8
CH-100
TA-140
CYA-0
The water is relatively clear but seems to have a slight cloudiness in the bottom foot or so. I am about to head out for chemicals but my dilemma is that I ran the numbers in poolmath, which is telling me to shock it to a FC level of 10 but that's assuming the CYA remains 0. So, do I follow the instructions for adding bleach for my target of 5 or shock to 10 if I am going to add stabilizer?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,028
- Pool Size
- 17888
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- Chlorine
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- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The plan forward is simple really:
1 - Lower pH to 7.2 (muriatic acid)
2 - Add stabilizer with a CYA goal of 30
3 - Increase FC to 12 and maintain that level until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.
I would refrain from purchasing any other expensive pool store chemicals as most often they are a waste of money, don't provide the expected results, and/or can cause more problems later. Now that you have a TF-100, bleach, applied in the proper amount based on your CYA, is your primary weapon against algae.
1 - Lower pH to 7.2 (muriatic acid)
2 - Add stabilizer with a CYA goal of 30
3 - Increase FC to 12 and maintain that level until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.
I would refrain from purchasing any other expensive pool store chemicals as most often they are a waste of money, don't provide the expected results, and/or can cause more problems later. Now that you have a TF-100, bleach, applied in the proper amount based on your CYA, is your primary weapon against algae.
So what form of chlorine do u recommend to bring the FC that high initially? I know I'll maintain if necessary with bleach, but thats a lot of bleach to bring it that high initially. Also, may be a dumb question, but wat are the 3 SLAM criteria?
First off, you're doing too much and adding chemicals your pool doesn't need. If you still have phosphate remover, shock or clarify throw them away or put them where you won't be tempted to use them. They will not be needed. Since you added shock, you likely added some CYA already, but not enough to calculate over 30. The problem is if you keep using that your CYA will be at a level that will make your pool unmanageable and force you to drain. So what you need to do is go buy some stabilizer and bleach (aka liquid chlorine). If you get bleach, make sure it's the regular kind (not splash less). You can use pool calculator to determine how much you need of both. Get a few extra bottles of bleach, since you will go through that faster in beginning until your CYA is fully in pool
Once you get items, bring your CYA up to 30 for now, and ultimately you will want to get it to 50. I would first bring it up to 30, so you don't overshoot and to compensate for any CYA you added from the shock. Once you get the stabilizer in pool. Then add enough bleach to get you to FC of 5.
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Also, buy some muriatic acid for your ph. You won't need it right away since adding CYA will lower your ph a little, but you will need to over time to keep reducing PH that naturally rises.
Also, you can buy all these at hardware store. I wouldn't use the pool store, except for the acid. Don't be tempted to have them test water or sell you anything else. I assure you, we have you covered and doing so to help, not sell you chemicals you don't need.
Once you get items, bring your CYA up to 30 for now, and ultimately you will want to get it to 50. I would first bring it up to 30, so you don't overshoot and to compensate for any CYA you added from the shock. Once you get the stabilizer in pool. Then add enough bleach to get you to FC of 5.
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Also, buy some muriatic acid for your ph. You won't need it right away since adding CYA will lower your ph a little, but you will need to over time to keep reducing PH that naturally rises.
Also, you can buy all these at hardware store. I wouldn't use the pool store, except for the acid. Don't be tempted to have them test water or sell you anything else. I assure you, we have you covered and doing so to help, not sell you chemicals you don't need.
Spin, I have exhausted all chemicals given me by the pool store so I'm starting fresh. So I gather from you, to add the stabilizer and add bleach to a FC goal of 5 rather than texas_splash recommendation of 12. And do you differ from his suggestion to bring the pH down?
You use bleach as well to SLAM, and get levels up. It's a lot at first but easy to maintain. If you can find reasonable priced stronger bleach, 10% or 12.5% then you can possibly get more bang for your buck. It's usually called, liquid shock or liquid chlorine.
As for SLAM, this is what you need to do.
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
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I agree with Texas. I was just taking you to very initial step of getting CYA in there, and get to reasonable FC level. Once you did that, I would have recommend SLAM. I would take Texas advice, he is much more experienced than me and his advice speeds up process.
As for SLAM, this is what you need to do.
Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain
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I agree with Texas. I was just taking you to very initial step of getting CYA in there, and get to reasonable FC level. Once you did that, I would have recommend SLAM. I would take Texas advice, he is much more experienced than me and his advice speeds up process.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,028
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- 17888
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- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I went back through your posts carefully because I realized in the beginning your water was fairly new and seemed to be looking good ... until this recent note: "The water is relatively clear but seems to have a slight cloudiness in the bottom foot or so." That cloudiness is what worries me and could be the start of algae. That was the reason for implementing the SLAM. But you do have a couple choices:
Opt 1. Assume the cloudiness is algae and begin a SLAM. Increase FC to 12 to be sure there is no algae ... or...
Opt 2. Take FC only to your normal daily range of about 5-6 and see how the water responds. If the cloudiness remains or gets worse, perform an overnight (OCLT) test and/or implement the SLAM.
In either scenario, the CYA needs to be added right away to an immediate goal of 30 that can be raised later if needed. The CYA (stabilizer) will serve as a buffer from the chlorine and also protect it from the sun). Definitely do that ASAP. If you chose to SLAM (Opt 1), lower the pH to 7.2 first. If you chose not to SLAM at this time (Opt 2), then make sure the pH doesn't creep over 7.8. Bring it back down to the mid-7s.
Hope that makes sense. If you still have concerns, please let us know.
Oh, and the 3 SLAM criteria are:
- Pass the Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
- CC of 0.5 or less
- Clear water
Opt 1. Assume the cloudiness is algae and begin a SLAM. Increase FC to 12 to be sure there is no algae ... or...
Opt 2. Take FC only to your normal daily range of about 5-6 and see how the water responds. If the cloudiness remains or gets worse, perform an overnight (OCLT) test and/or implement the SLAM.
In either scenario, the CYA needs to be added right away to an immediate goal of 30 that can be raised later if needed. The CYA (stabilizer) will serve as a buffer from the chlorine and also protect it from the sun). Definitely do that ASAP. If you chose to SLAM (Opt 1), lower the pH to 7.2 first. If you chose not to SLAM at this time (Opt 2), then make sure the pH doesn't creep over 7.8. Bring it back down to the mid-7s.
Hope that makes sense. If you still have concerns, please let us know.
Oh, and the 3 SLAM criteria are:
- Pass the Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
- CC of 0.5 or less
- Clear water
Thanks, and I have decided to go ahead and SLAM due to the fact we won't be using it for over a week and I might as well eliminate any questions now. So once I add the acid, how long do I need to wait to test the pH?
- Jun 22, 2014
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- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Once you add the muriatic acid, give it about 20-30 minutes to mix real well then check again and adjust more if required.
- Jun 22, 2014
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Sure. Stabilizer added via the sock-soaking method can be added anytime. Squeeze the sock often to help it dissolve. The only "no-no" is adding bleach and muriatic acid to the same location at the same time. Those two items don't play nice together. :grrrr:
Alright, added the acid and got my pH down to 7.2. One thing I noticed, however, is when I went to get my water sample after 30-45 mins, 90% if not all of the cloudiness was gone just from bringing the pH down. I dont know if that is indicative of anything, but i went ahead with the addition of stabilizer via the sock method and the 2.5 jugs of bleach.
You're on the right track. Let pool circulate. You may want to test after about 15 minutes to see where you FC is at to make sure you got it to 12. Also test your CC level. You don't have to test anything else at this point. Once you get it to 12, test every hour or as often as you can and bring it back FC up to 12 each time. Don't be shocked if you have a lot of FC lose during this time, especially while sun is out.