ps- vacuuming or otherwising ensuring bottom is clear will help- if you have leaves or something in the bottom, that could be what is creating at least some of the CC and some of the cloudiness!
new pool owner with a foreclosure swamp
- Thread starter tyoder
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As long as your CC is at 2, you probably need to continue the shock process, but the best way is to do the overnight FC drop test, as you stated. I've seen some say a CC of .5 is ok, but I shoot for 0 in my pool.
Mine takes so much chlorine to shock, I started using 78% cal-hypo as my shock chlorine source (and I hope to never have to shock again!). Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but given his vinyl pool and CH of 100, he'd probably be OK using this, correct?
Mine takes so much chlorine to shock, I started using 78% cal-hypo as my shock chlorine source (and I hope to never have to shock again!). Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but given his vinyl pool and CH of 100, he'd probably be OK using this, correct?
ill vaccuum and test the CC before floc-ing. i know the pressure building up means the filter is filtering, but given 3 weeks, and seeing no progress in the cloudiness actually clearing, i think i want to try the floc at least once. like i said, the filter can sit for at least 3 days without the pressure ever rising, and then i get frustrated and add DE. the pressure only rises when i add DE to the filter to increase the efficiency.
is cal-hypo cheaper than bleach? I mean, is there any reason i should switch to cal-hypo? also, is cal-hypo balanced, and does it increase the CYA level like trichlor and dichlor?
and my question about losing up to 9 ppm FC during the day never really got answered. Yes, i know i still have some CC, but it seems unusual that the FC will hold steadily overnight, but then during the day, i lose 9 ppm. I know CYA protects the FC from sunlight, so with a CYA level between 60-70, am i really losing that much FC to the sun, or is there something else going on?
is cal-hypo cheaper than bleach? I mean, is there any reason i should switch to cal-hypo? also, is cal-hypo balanced, and does it increase the CYA level like trichlor and dichlor?
and my question about losing up to 9 ppm FC during the day never really got answered. Yes, i know i still have some CC, but it seems unusual that the FC will hold steadily overnight, but then during the day, i lose 9 ppm. I know CYA protects the FC from sunlight, so with a CYA level between 60-70, am i really losing that much FC to the sun, or is there something else going on?
Cal-hypo is easier to handle for me. To raise my 44,000 gallon pool to shock level and hold it there would take a truckload of Clorox. I honestly haven't done the calculation in regards to cost vs. chlorine level, but it sure is more handy.
Cal-hypo will not do anything with CYA, but will raise your CH. Not sure what you mean by balanced.
Holding steady at night then losing during the day is what a pool does in normal situations. I typically lose as much as 4ppm in the day during summer, but my pool is in some shade during the day. I'm guessing your loss is not unusual.
Cal-hypo will not do anything with CYA, but will raise your CH. Not sure what you mean by balanced.
Holding steady at night then losing during the day is what a pool does in normal situations. I typically lose as much as 4ppm in the day during summer, but my pool is in some shade during the day. I'm guessing your loss is not unusual.
Switching to Cal-hypo will steadly increase your CH and then that'll be something you'll have to drain/fill to control. It's also higher than bleach unless you get a really good deal on a lot of it.
In my case I was low on CH so it was an added benefit.
My goal is to never have to shock again, and based on what I've learned here I believe it's possible.
My goal is to never have to shock again, and based on what I've learned here I believe it's possible.
Absolutely! Many people around here have gone years without shocking.RobbieH said:
so if a pool should be kept around 3-5 ppm FC under normal conditions, and i am losing up to 9 ppm currently during the day, how do I keep the FC from dropping to 0 during the day? am i supposed to add enough bleach every morning to raise the FC to 13, because isnt this technically considered shocking the pool every day? or what is the best way to maintain FC level of 3-5, when i am losing up to 9 ppm during the day?
i am thinking about getting a SWG. should i run the pump with the SWG at night or during the day to maintain FC levels? it seems like running it at night would be more efficient because you wouldnt have the sun eating up the FC that the generator is producing. but, along the same lines as my question above, do i run it long enough every night to bring the FC level up to 13 or what is the best method?
i am thinking about getting a SWG. should i run the pump with the SWG at night or during the day to maintain FC levels? it seems like running it at night would be more efficient because you wouldnt have the sun eating up the FC that the generator is producing. but, along the same lines as my question above, do i run it long enough every night to bring the FC level up to 13 or what is the best method?
I'll let someone more experienced in the pool math than me answer your question, but in short the higher your FC, the more you lose in a day.
In my case, I installed a Liquidator to keep my FC balanced.
In my case, I installed a Liquidator to keep my FC balanced.
If you're losing 9 ppm (is this 13 to 4?) with CYA at 60-70, I think something else is going on. Are you sure you're passing the overnight test?
yea, im still shocking so my FC level is going from 30 to 21 on some sunny days. I dont know for sure that im passing the overnight test, because I havent tested it properly. I just know that it is holding pretty steadily overnight, because I will test once the sun is almost down, add enough bleach to bring it back up to 30, and then test again in the morning. I havent tested again 30 min or so after adding the bleach at night like youre supposed to do with the overnight test to get a true accurate reading of the FC at night, because of the fact that I still have CC.
OK 30 to 21 sounds more reasonable. When your FC level is lower, you'll lose less FC in terms of ppm, but the same percent. So for example, instead of losing 9 ppm (30 to 21), you'd lose 3 ppm (9 to 6). Just keep up the shocking for now and try not to worry about what's next. It'll be much easier than it is right now!
And doing the overnight test will let you estimate much of the FC you're losing during the day is due to the sun and how much is due to organics that should be mostly when you stop shocking.
Andrew Sarchus said:
Not exactly. The OFCLT will help you confirm if there are organics present consuming your FC when sun is not a factor, hence why the test needs to be performed after sundown and before the sun comes up. Below is a link to the OFCLT and described in detail
pool-school/overnight_fc_test
i am going to try floc once i get my CC down and pass the overnight FC test. theres 2 pool stores near me, and 1 carries Bioguard Power-floc, and the other is a branch of Ace hardware and they carry O-Ace-Sis Super Floc Out. I can find reviews on the bioguard floc, but i cant find any reviews (only product page showing its been discontinued) on the O-Ace-sis product. Anyone know about this particular brand/product?