New pool owner- water balance help. What next?

[Dhopkins]

First of all, this place is amazing! I’ve been reading like crazy trying to get an idea of what I’ve gotten myself into. Never had a pool or helped take care of one- but everyone assured me it’s “ No big deal”

We just had a new fiberglass Aviva Lux 40 installed. Pool build finally finished early March. They were supposed to balance the water and get everything ready as their last “To do”. I know they added about 10 bags of salt on one of their last days. Nothing (other than additional water to help keep the water level where it needs to be) has been added since. Where we live, we have hard water. After finding this group and the whole TFP process, I ordered a Taylor k-2006 test. Last week I cleaned our cartridge filter (very dirty from all the dirt that’s been blowing near our pool) and inspected the salt cell (mainly because the Haywood Omnilogic alerted “Chlor Too Low Salt Chlorinator1”). Additionally the chlorinator level went from 3200ppm to 1500 ppm to 200ppm on the automated app within a few days. Salt cell fins are caked with scale. I had to order a cap to be able to clean the salt cell. Part should be here tomorrow and I’ve watched a bunch of videos on cleaning it with a diluted muriatic acid mixture. Hoping to get that done tomorrow and get the salt cell back to its normal operation.

Today I did my first water test using the Taylor. I watched multiple videos on YouTube and read through the instructions several times to make sure I was ready to correctly do the tests. The process really seems pretty straight forward. I’m not exactly sure how to upload the results here using the TFP app, but here’s what I got:
FC - 0
CC - 0
PH - 8.0
TA -210 ppm
CH -300 ppm
CYA - 0
Salt - 2800 ppm
Water temp 74*
CSI - .66 this came from the app (not even real sure what it is)

I’m guessing the biggest issue is the chlorine levels. Water is currently clear and looking good. On the FC test, I put the two dippers of powder into the 25mL sample. The water didn’t turn pink. It says to add it until it does turn pink. I added approx 20 dippers, swirling between each one and couldn’t ever get it pink. At the end it was a very, very faint toward pink, but wasn’t anywhere near the colors shown on the tube. Rather than continuing to “waste” the powder, I stored the test.

On the CYA test, it was filled to the top of the tube and the dot was very clear.

Based on my reading, I know I need to add liquid chlorine and some muriatic acid. The chlorine I’m guessing is the most important and should be added immediately? Not real sure where to go or what to do first.

Sample used to test water was taken from the deep end about 12-18” under the surface. Pump has been running all day. I think all my details are filled out in my profile and my signature.

If anyone has any words of wisdom/advice/next steps, I am a sponge ready to soak up what you’ve got.

Thank you!
David

 

[IceShadow]

1) Start CYA dissolving. Put 30ppm worth in an old stocking or sock or something and suspend in front of a return jet. Squeeze now and then to work the CYA into the water until dissolved. Could take some time based on water temp. But you can assume it’s in the water.

2) Add liquid chlorine to dose up to about 8ppm or so. Can be done while CYA is dissolving. Small stream poured in at a return while pump is running to distribute out to the pool.

3) At least 15 minutes after adding the chlorine, you can add muriatic acid to bring down the pH. Target taking it down to 7.2 but only add half to start. Let mix for 15-30 minutes with the pump and test pH and TA again. Adjust again as needed to try and take down to 7.2.

How does the pool look? If clear and no sign of algae, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to verify nothing is growing where you can’t see it.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum.
You must have a water softener in San Angelo. You should use softened water for make up water to refill pool due to evaporation.

 

[Dhopkins]

1) Start CYA dissolving. Put 30ppm worth in an old stocking or sock or something and suspend in front of a return jet. Squeeze now and then to work the CYA into the water until dissolved. Could take some time based on water temp. But you can assume it’s in the water.

Awesome. Will do. This protects the chlorine I’m going to add, correct?

2) Add liquid chlorine to dose up to about 8ppm or so. Can be done while CYA is dissolving. Small stream poured in at a return while pump is running to distribute out to the pool.

I just picked up several bottles of liquid chlorine, but I’ve also been reading that I can just use liquid bleach too? Is this right?

3) At least 15 minutes after adding the chlorine, you can add muriatic acid to bring down the pH. Target taking it down to 7.2 but only add half to start. Let mix for 15-30 minutes with the pump and test pH and TA again. Adjust again as needed to try and take down to 7.2.

Will do! Thank you for the help!

How does the pool look? If clear and no sign of algae, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to verify nothing is growing where you can’t see it.

 

[Dhopkins]

Welcome to the forum.
You must have a water softener in San Angelo. You should use softened water for make up water to refill pool due to evaporation.

Yes we do. But it’s not a traditional softener due to being on a septic system. It’s a Nuvo system-which uses a citric cartridge. Honestly it doesn’t work that great …. And if I was doing it all over, I’d go traditional and deal with the septic issue of using it.

I have been using water that goes through that system to refill the pool , but when the guys originally filled the pool they used a hose bib they installed that bypasses the system.

 

[IceShadow]

Awesome. Will do. This protects the chlorine I’m going to add, correct?

Protects it from the sun, yes. Without CYA the half-life of chlorine in full sun is about 30 minutes. 30 is a good starting spot in case you end up needing to SLAM. With a SWCG you would eventually want to push it up into the 70-80 range but first you want to be 100% sure nothing is growing in the pool.

I just picked up several bottles of liquid chlorine, but I’ve also been reading that I can just use liquid bleach too? Is this right?

They’re the same thing, just different concentrations. Though these days it’s hard to find bleach without additives that make the pool foam up, etc. So most people use liquid chlorine as it won’t have those additives.

 

[IceShadow]

Yes we do. But it’s not a traditional softener due to being on a septic system. It’s a Nuvo system-which uses a citric cartridge. Honestly it doesn’t work that great …. And if I was doing it all over, I’d go traditional and deal with the septic issue of using it.

I have been using water that goes through that system to refill the pool , but when the guys originally filled the pool they used a hose bib they installed that bypasses the system.

Your TA is high, so your pH will rise pretty quickly. You’ll just combat the pH rise with muriatic acid, and over time that will pull the TA down too.

You should test your fill water to see what pH, CH, TA it has.

 

[mknauss]

I suspect that system does not actually remove the calcium. But I know nothing of it.

In your area, I would think a dry sump could be used for effluent from the softener.

You need to control the CH rise, as your high TA fill water will mess with your SWCG. W Texas water is not good.

 

[Dhopkins]

How does the pool look? If clear and no sign of algae, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to verify nothing is growing where you can’t see it.

Pool is clear and looks good. I’m not sure what signs I’d see if I had algae, but I don’t see anything that makes me think I do?

 

[Dhopkins]

You should test your fill water to see what pH, CH, TA it has.

I am very curious about that after the testing tonight. It would be good info to know for sure.

 

[Dhopkins]

How does the pool look? If clear and no sign of algae, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to verify nothing is growing where you can’t see it.

Just to make sure I understand….I would do the overnight chlorine loss test after adding CYA and the liquid chlorine and muriatic acid? I’d have to have the additional chlorine in the water in order to register enough to see if I’m actually losing it to algae, correct?

 

[IceShadow]

Just to make sure I understand….I would do the overnight chlorine loss test after adding CYA and the liquid chlorine and muriatic acid? I’d have to have the additional chlorine in the water in order to register enough to see if I’m actually losing it to algae, correct?

Correct. At least after adding the FC. But the rest is a good idea too.

 

[Bperry]

Just to make sure I understand….I would do the overnight chlorine loss test after adding CYA and the liquid chlorine and muriatic acid? I’d have to have the additional chlorine in the water in order to register enough to see if I’m actually losing it to algae, correct?

Your question/process about the FAS-DPD test wasn’t answered. (With the powder)

Use a 10ml water sample and only add one big scoop of powder. If you add powder and it doesn’t turn pink it means you have zero chlorine. Don’t keep wasting powder to try and make it turn pink. It’s plenty accurate and saves reagent that way

If you use the 10ml water sample, the math is much easier because you just divide the number of drops by two to get the FC ppm (Or multiply them by 0.5 depending on your math preferences).

 

[IceShadow]

Your question/process about the FAS-DPD test wasn’t answered. (With the powder)

Use a 10ml water sample and only add one big scoop of powder. If you add powder and it doesn’t turn pink it means you have zero chlorine. Don’t keep wasting powder to try and make it turn pink. It’s plenty accurate and saves reagent that way

If you use the 10ml water sample, the math is much easier because you just divide the number of drops by two to get the FC ppm (Or multiply them by 0.5 depending on your math preferences).

This - sorry for missing!

If there's any undissolved powder in the mix then you have enough in there. No need to add more.