New Pool Owner, Various Q’s about Pool & Equipment

[Jordywilson]

Hi everyone, I just recently built my first gunite pool and have done tons of research on TFP already to learn as much as I can about it, but I have various questions that I was hoping some folks could help me with. Before I get into it, my pool equipment and specs are as follows: 17k gal pool with spa that has hidden spillway, Pentair IntelliFlo3 pump for pool/spa, Pentair WhisperFlo pump for water feature, Pentair Clean & Clear Plus 520 cartridge filter, Pentair MasterTemp 400 heater, Pentair IntelliChlor IC40 SWCG, Silencer Air Blower, A&A Automated In-Floor Cleaning System with 20-something heads (some are Venturi heads, others are the lower-flow heads), Pentair IntelliCenter Automation, and lastly not sure which skimmer I have. I’ve also attached lots of pictures to hopefully give you a complete idea of the setup.

1. Do all of my valves look like they’re turned the right way for the proper setup of my system? What exactly does each one do? For instance, I don’t understand the jandy valve that’s like tilted diagonally left of the word “skimmer” toward the word “pool.”
2. When the start-up guy was walking me through the bare basics of everything, he said my IntelliFlo3 is variable speed and flow, but to not bother adjusting the flow at all. How do I know if I have the right flow settings? What can changing the flow do for me?
3. From my understanding, I cannot have the returns in my pool going while my IFCS is running; the only reason to have the returns going is if the IFCS system is down temporarily. Is this true?
4. In the IntelliCenter app, I can either have the Pool or Spa on, but not both at the same time. One of the plumber guys said it had something to do with not having both the pool drain and spa drain running at the same time. Why is that?
5. In the IntelliCenter app, I was told the “pool” switch controls the main drain and the “cleaner” switch is what turns on the IFCS. Is the “cleaner” switch basically just ramping up the RPM to the main pump, or is it actually turning some valve when I switch it on? Also should I always have “pool” switched on when “cleaner” is switched on? Note that I can have both the pool and cleaner switches on simultaneously.
6. When my pump is running at anything lower than roughly 1800 RPM, I notice the skimmer basket doesn’t stay in the hole and instead floats to the top of the water. Does that mean I need to have the RPM at least that high for any skimming to actually be happening?
7. Going off of Q3 and Q4, if I just have “pool” switched on and at 1200-1500 RPM for part of the day, is the water still circulating sufficiently?
8. How do I know if my IFCS heads are optimally installed? I believe they used the Venturi heads for the ones deeper in the pool, and the other lower-flow heads in the shallower parts like on steps. I’ve noticed that some of the heads also make a loud whining noise when they’re popped up and shooting out water. Would taking them out and switching it to one of the larger or smaller holes fix that? I know you can like rotate a piece on them to change it somehow.
9. The spa has 8 jets around it. Whenever I turn “jets” on and the RPM is ramped up to 3350 RPM, only about 4 actually have a good amount of pressure coming out while the other 4 have next to none. However, if I turn the blower on, all 8 look fine. I believe a plumber came out already to check for debris, but assuming he actually cleaned them out, it didn’t fix the problem. Is there anything else I can do to have good, even pressure for all 8, or am I screwed because of the way it’s plumbed? In the picture of the spa, the 4 that have good pressure without the blower are the 3 jets on the right side and the top jet. Note that my equipment pad is on the opposite (back left) corner of my yard.

Apologies for all the questions already, but I knew nothing about pools until a few weeks ago and have been reading up as much as I can. I’m sure there were a few other questions, but these were the ones I could remember off the top of my head for now. Appreciate any help!

 

[HermanTX]

Welcome to TFP.
First - thanks for outlining all of your equipment. Now take all of that and add it to your Signature, which will aid the experts to quickly tailor responses to your pool and equipment, and you won't need to repeat it in future posts.

It appears that you have set up your automation to run your VS pump at different speeds for different functions so that is good.
Your IFCS is optimized by shutting off the return to the pool. That is good that you have sidewall pool returns in addition to your IFCS.

THere are 2 main systems for a pool - one is Pool Mode where you draw water from the main drain and/or skimmers and you return water to the pool via your IFCS or the wall returns. The other mode is SPA mode. This draws water from the Spa and returns it to the spa.
If you draw water from both the spa and the pool at the same time, you risk draining your spa if your return line is only set to return to the pool.

 

[pjt]

Beautiful pool!

Why did they jam all your equipment onto such a tiny equipment pad? It will be very difficult to access the filter for cleaning.

 

[HermanTX]

1. Do all of my valves look like they’re turned the right way for the proper setup of my system? What exactly does each one do? For instance, I don’t understand the jandy valve that’s like tilted diagonally left of the word “skimmer” toward the word “pool.”

The left pipe is suction for the Spa. The right side is suction for the pool. However, you have 2 suctions points for the pool - one is the skimmer(s) and the other is the main drain. The Jandy valve is at a 45 deg angle to allow suction from both the sKimmel and the main drain. Notice the word CLOSE on the parts that rotates. If that is in front of the Skimmer pipe then that pipe is CLOSED, If it is in front of the Main Drain (MD) then the MD is CLOSED. Currently it is split between both. I tend to favor more suction from the skimmers so 25% open to MD and 75% open to skimmer.

2. When the start-up guy was walking me through the bare basics of everything, he said my IntelliFlo3 is variable speed and flow, but to not bother adjusting the flow at all. How do I know if I have the right flow settings? What can changing the flow do for me

Per your automation pictures, you already have varying speeds for different functions. I think (or hope) what the pool guy meant was, that once you set your Pool for a minimum speed that is all you need to do then you can schedule other functions at higher speeds. You should set the Pool Circuit on the automation to run whatever length of time and at the lowest speed that still operates your Salt system (SWCG). Most run their pump 24 hrs and at a speed of 1200 to 1500 rpm. Currently yours is set for 1800rpm. You do not show for how long that is set. It could go lower and still operate the SWCG. You would need to test that. The system will always run at the higher of 2 speeds when a new schedule is turned on. So if you have your Pool running at 1800rpm and you turn on the cleaner (In Floor Cleaning System - IFCS) which is set at 3000rpm, the VS pump will ramp up to that speed for that duration of the schedule and return to 1800rpm when the cleaner function is turned off.

3. From my understanding, I cannot have the returns in my pool going while my IFCS is running; the only reason to have the returns going is if the IFCS system is down temporarily. Is this true?

the IFCS needs the full flow of the pump to operate properly so it is best to have the IFCS on or have the wall returns on - not both. You should have the wall returns on when your pump is running at 1800rpm. The schedule shows the pump ramps up to 3000rpm when the IFCS is turned on.

4. In the IntelliCenter app, I can either have the Pool or Spa on, but not both at the same time. One of the plumber guys said it had something to do with not having both the pool drain and spa drain running at the same time. Why is that?

Answered earlier in Post #2

5. In the IntelliCenter app, I was told the “pool” switch controls the main drain and the “cleaner” switch is what turns on the IFCS. Is the “cleaner” switch basically just ramping up the RPM to the main pump, or is it actually turning some valve when I switch it on? Also should I always have “pool” switched on when “cleaner” is switched on? Note that I can have both the pool and cleaner switches on simultaneously.

The Jandy valve between the Pool Return and the Cleaner (In Floor) is a manual valve. That should be automated if you have it scheduled. Right now you would need to manually turn the valve (currently it is OPEN to the cleaner side) to either pool or cleaner then switch on the proper item. Pool will always show on because that is linked to your pump - it has to be on when the cleaner function is also on. Just remember to rotate the valve 180 degrees.

6. When my pump is running at anything lower than roughly 1800 RPM, I notice the skimmer basket doesn’t stay in the hole and instead floats to the top of the water. Does that mean I need to have the RPM at least that high for any skimming to actually be happening?

yes that could be reason. ALso, you show to have a skimmer sock on the basket which tends to make it float. I have skimmer baskets with a weight at the bottom or the handle is stainless and weighs down the skimmer basket.

7. Going off of Q3 and Q4, if I just have “pool” switched on and at 1200-1500 RPM for part of the day, is the water still circulating sufficiently?

The automation screen shows it is set at 1800rpm - where are you seeing 1200-1500 rpm?

8. How do I know if my IFCS heads are optimally installed? I believe they used the Venturi heads for the ones deeper in the pool, and the other lower-flow heads in the shallower parts like on steps. I’ve noticed that some of the heads also make a loud whining noise when they’re popped up and shooting out water. Would taking them out and switching it to one of the larger or smaller holes fix that? I know you can like rotate a piece on them to change it somehow.

Maybe someone with a IFCS can answer that. I know some people love IFCS and others wish they didn’t have it. I hope you have good success.

9. The spa has 8 jets around it. Whenever I turn “jets” on and the RPM is ramped up to 3350 RPM, only about 4 actually have a good amount of pressure coming out while the other 4 have next to none. However, if I turn the blower on, all 8 look fine. I believe a plumber came out already to check for debris, but assuming he actually cleaned them out, it didn’t fix the problem. Is there anything else I can do to have good, even pressure for all 8, or am I screwed because of the way it’s plumbed? In the picture of the spa, the 4 that have good pressure without the blower are the 3 jets on the right side and the top jet. Note that my equipment pad is on the opposite (back left) corner of my yard.

This could be a function of the plumbing design put in around the spa. Do you have any construction photos of the spa plumbing?
This is not an uncommon problem because flow goes to the path of least resistance. The blower helps push water which is why it improves. You should clean the jets annually if feasible. Depending on which you have you can remove the return, use an extension on a socket and unscrew the jet. Then run the spa to flush out any small debris.

Hope this helps.
You may want to post screen shots of your schedules on the automation to help understand what is supposed to be on and when.

 

[Jordywilson]

Beautiful pool!

Why did they jam all your equipment onto such a tiny equipment pad? It will be very difficult to access the filter for cleaning.

Thanks! To answer your question, I’m not sure. They didn’t really take input from me when they were doing that, but I honestly like how it’s taking up the least amount of space as possible. Is the only problem with it just that it’ll be a hassle to clean the filter? I can probably deal with that if so.

 

[pjt]

Is the only problem with it just that it’ll be a hassle to clean the filter?

Any maintenance, inspection, or repair will be much harder since there's no space between any of the equipment.

 

[Jordywilson]

The left pipe is suction for the Spa. The right side is suction for the pool. However, you have 2 suctions points for the pool - one is the skimmer(s) and the other is the main drain. The Jandy valve is at a 45 deg angle to allow suction from both the sKimmel and the main drain. Notice the word CLOSE on the parts that rotates. If that is in front of the Skimmer pipe then that pipe is CLOSED, If it is in front of the Main Drain (MD) then the MD is CLOSED. Currently it is split between both. I tend to favor more suction from the skimmers so 25% open to MD and 75% open to skimmer.

Got it. I adjusted it to be about 25% MD 75% skimmer.

Per your automation pictures, you already have varying speeds for different functions. I think (or hope) what the pool guy meant was, that once you set your Pool for a minimum speed that is all you need to do then you can schedule other functions at higher speeds. You should set the Pool Circuit on the automation to run whatever length of time and at the lowest speed that still operates your Salt system (SWCG). Most run their pump 24 hrs and at a speed of 1200 to 1500 rpm. Currently yours is set for 1800rpm. You do not show for how long that is set. It could go lower and still operate the SWCG. You would need to test that. The system will always run at the higher of 2 speeds when a new schedule is turned on. So if you have your Pool running at 1800rpm and you turn on the cleaner (In Floor Cleaning System - IFCS) which is set at 3000rpm, the VS pump will ramp up to that speed for that duration of the schedule and return to 1800rpm when the cleaner function is turned off.

I understand how I can adjust the speed (RPM) of the IntelliFlo3 to different levels in the automation app, but I’m confused on what variable flow means then. How do I adjust the flow, and what reasons would I have to increase or decrease the flow? Also, so when “cleaner” is switched off, the heads are no longer popping up and down, but they are still acting as returns? How does that work if they aren’t popped up? Even if they do still act as returns when cleaner is off, do you think the wall returns would perform better as returns when the pump RPM is just sitting at 1200-1500?

the IFCS needs the full flow of the pump to operate properly so it is best to have the IFCS on or have the wall returns on - not both. You should have the wall returns on when your pump is running at 1800rpm. The schedule shows the pump ramps up to 3000rpm when the IFCS is turned on.

Using this picture as reference, it looks like the SWG (when it gets turned on after the 30 day mark) would only be distributing the chlorine through the in-floors. Is that true? If so, then I wouldn’t want to have the wall returns on ever (unless the IFCS broke) right? I was planning on having the SWG running 24/7 at a lower percentage like 20% so it’s always distributing a little chlorine, but I suppose I could only have it distribute when the IFCS is running. Or am I thinking this through wrong? Also, if I were to use the wall returns when the IFCS isn’t running, would I need to get another Pentair IntelliValve Valve Actuator to automate it? It looks like I have to manually move that Jandy valve. Lastly, what does the quickskim label mean, and what do the two blue valves do?

The Jandy valve between the Pool Return and the Cleaner (In Floor) is a manual valve. That should be automated if you have it scheduled. Right now you would need to manually turn the valve (currently it is OPEN to the cleaner side) to either pool or cleaner then switch on the proper item. Pool will always show on because that is linked to your pump - it has to be on when the cleaner function is also on. Just remember to rotate the valve 180 degrees.

Refer to the pic above about that valve. It seems like it’s not automated because I don’t see any option in my IntelliCenter app.

Maybe someone with a IFCS can answer that. I know some people love IFCS and others wish they didn’t have it. I hope you have good success.

Yeah, I’m hoping I can get it to work flawlessly and be a nice feature of the pool. I’ll wait for someone else to comment on the IFCS questions.

This could be a function of the plumbing design put in around the spa. Do you have any construction photos of the spa plumbing?
This is not an uncommon problem because flow goes to the path of least resistance. The blower helps push water which is why it improves. You should clean the jets annually if feasible. Depending on which you have you can remove the return, use an extension on a socket and unscrew the jet. Then run the spa to flush out any small debris.

This is probably the best picture I can find. I was told the plumbing work was a better job than most others because of the size of the pipes and whatnot, but I have no idea.

Hope this helps.
You may want to post screen shots of your schedules on the automation to help understand what is supposed to be on and when.

I just have two schedules for the cleaner to run from 4pm-10pm and 4am-10am, and then a schedule for pool to be on from 12am-12am (I think that’s how you set a pump to run 24/7?)

Thanks so much for all the help thus far!

 

[HermanTX]

Using this picture as reference, it looks like the SWG (when it gets turned on after the 30 day mark) would only be distributing the chlorine through the in-floors. Is that true? If so, then I wouldn’t want to have the wall returns on ever (unless the IFCS broke) right? I was planning on having the SWG running 24/7 at a lower percentage like 20% so it’s always distributing a little chlorine, but I suppose I could only have it distribute when the IFCS is running. Or am I thinking this through wrong? Also, if I were to use the wall returns when the IFCS isn’t running, would I need to get another Pentair IntelliValve Valve Actuator to automate it? It looks like I have to manually move that Jandy valve. Lastly, what does the quickskim label mean, and what do the two blue valves do?

I was wondering where the SWCG was because I could not see it in the original pictures. Your plumber is an idiot - sorry!!
So I am going to assume the pipe marked Return is physical returns to the wall of the pool. Can you confirm that? I only see the wall drains in the original set of pool pictures. If there are wall returns then they are of no value if you have to always run through the cleaner pipe to generate the chlorine.
I would ask the PB to have the plumber move the heater to the far left as possible - it means redoing the gas line and the inlet/outlet lines for the heater. Then place the SWCG on the long straight leading to the diverter valve with automation. This would allow you to generate chlorine in either SPA mode, Pool Return Mode or Pool Cleaner mode.


Also, you should have another Pentair automatic valve between the Return and the Cleaner plumbing. This way you could automate when you wish to put the cleaner on.

I understand how I can adjust the speed (RPM) of the IntelliFlo3 to different levels in the automation app, but I’m confused on what variable flow means then. How do I adjust the flow, and what reasons would I have to increase or decrease the flow? Also, so when “cleaner” is switched off, the heads are no longer popping up and down, but they are still acting as returns? How does that work if they aren’t popped up? Even if they do still act as returns when cleaner is off, do you think the wall returns would perform better as returns when the pump RPM is just sitting at 1200-1500?

There are 3 types of pumps used on pools - a single speed that runs at a constant 3450rpm, a 2 speed with a mid and high speed settings and a variable speed - which allows any increment of speed from a minimum usually around 600rpm to a maximum of 3450 rpm.
In the Pool circuit you would set the rpm for the minimal speed that still activiates the SWCG. Then that becomes the baseline rpm for your pool. Then other items such as spa, heater, cleaner are set up with higher speeds. you can also have a high skim speed.

When the cleaner is off but you still have pump running and the pipe is open to cleaner, then the rpm you have set is not strong enough to push the heads up but the flow has to go somewhere so you probably cannot see it.
ideally, you want the wall returns to be on most of the day and then turn on the IFCS for a couple of hours depending on the debris requirements. But as discussed above, if you have wall returns on then there is no chlorine generation unless you move the SWCG.

 

[HermanTX]

Lastly, what does the quickskim label mean, and what do the two blue valves do?

The quickskim appears to be a pipe that leads to your skimmer. You have a venturi type of skimmer. So that flow to the skimmer will cause a sucking action to improve skimming. It looks like the valve is partially open to create some flow to the skimmer.

The other smaller blue valve appears to be a spillover feature to your spa. So if you are in Pool mode, you could open that valve and some water would be diverted to the spa to allow it to fill and spillover to the pool. It also helps to keep the spa refreshed with chlorine when you are in Pool Mode. Usually that valve can be automated as well but it is not - also it is a permanent valve, meaning the only way to repair it is to cut it out of the plumbing.

As stated earlier by others, - the PB/plumber did not do you any favors in jamming all of this in such a tight space.

 

[mknauss]

Your plumber is an idiot - sorry!!

Besides that, the SWCG is aligned with flow down through it. Not good. A flow switch failure can result in the SWCG being powered on without flow through it. That can cause an explosion.

 

[Jordywilson]

I was wondering where the SWCG was because I could not see it in the original pictures. Your plumber is an idiot - sorry!!
So I am going to assume the pipe marked Return is physical returns to the wall of the pool. Can you confirm that? I only see the wall drains in the original set of pool pictures. If there are wall returns then they are of no value if you have to always run through the cleaner pipe to generate the chlorine.
I would ask the PB to have the plumber move the heater to the far left as possible - it means redoing the gas line and the inlet/outlet lines for the heater. Then place the SWCG on the long straight leading to the diverter valve with automation. This would allow you to generate chlorine in either SPA mode, Pool Return Mode or Pool Cleaner mode.
View attachment 484146

Also, you should have another Pentair automatic valve between the Return and the Cleaner plumbing. This way you could automate when you wish to put the cleaner on.

Yes, moving that Jandy valve to “Return” diverts the water to the wall returns instead. I believe there are 5 or 6 wall returns around the pool. Is that a good amount? I’ll definitely see about getting that plumbing change made to run the SWCG through all of the different modes. Do you have any idea how expensive that might be? If it helps, neither the pool heater nor the SWCG have been used yet. If that matters, I would need to tell my PB asap since they’re planning on turning those on very soon. I doubt I could get my PB to change it without him wanting additional money for it, and he has already gotten an absurd amount of money from me.

Besides that, the SWCG is aligned with flow down through it. Not good. A flow switch failure can result in the SWCG being powered on without flow through it. That can cause an explosion.

1. If I make the plumbing change that Herman is recommending, would that fix it? If not, what would I need to do?
2. If I keep the existing plumbing setup, what would I need to do to prevent that?

Side note: anyone have any other thoughts on the spa issue or the IFCS?

 

[mknauss]

If I make the plumbing change that Herman is recommending, would that fix it? If not, what would I need to do?

Flow through the SWCG can be horizontal or up if vertical. No way to fix it as it is plumbed now.

 

[HermanTX]

Do you have any idea how expensive that might be? If it helps, neither the pool heater nor the SWCG have been used yet. If that matters, I would need to tell my PB asap since they’re planning on turning those on very soon. I doubt I could get my PB to change it without him wanting additional money for it, and he has already gotten an absurd amount of money from me.

The plumber did it wrong. The PB should take responsibility to fix that. The SWCG is positioned wrong from a safety standpoint and from a functional standpoint. The cost to the PB will be a lot less than if you have to pay a independent contractor.

1. If I make the plumbing change that Herman is recommending, would that fix it? If not, what would I need to do?
2. If I keep the existing plumbing setup, what would I need to do to prevent that?

Yes as it would be horizontal which is fine. Also, it is mfg. recommendation to have 12 inches of straight pipe before the SWCG. You do not have that now, but if they will push the heater to the left there will be room on that long piece of straight pipe.
If the SWCG will be placed in a vertical position, it needs to be in the upward flow position, not the downward flow. It cannot be fixed unless they move it.

 

[HermanTX]

Yeah, I’m hoping I can get it to work flawlessly and be a nice feature of the pool. I’ll wait for someone else to comment on the IFCS questions.

Maybe @jesse-99 can review the questions on the IFCS as they have similar system.

 

[jesse-99]

@Jordywilson if you still have specific in-floor system questions, let me know. My plumbing is definitely setup differently than yours. My SWG is plumbed so that it's able to feed -both- my in-floor heads and my wall returns. I have valves for both the in-floor heads and the wall returns, so I can turn either on/off, or balance them, however I want. Usually I keep my in-floor valve 100% open, and my wall returns around 50% open. I personally like having the heated/chlorinated water (and Muradic Acid drip from my Stenner pump) distributed to various areas of the entire pool (I have 37 in-floor heads, spread out across 7 different zones, where 1 zone is active at a time for a 15 second interval before moving to the next zone), versus having everything distributed back into my pool from only 2 wall returns.

I am using a Pentair VSP for my main filter pump for the first time this year, and the heads pop up just fine even at only 1750 RPMs or less. They also pop up fine even if I'm only running 950 RPMs, but that might be when the wall return's valve is closed or mostly closed --- I can't remember, I can test this if you want? Some of would depend on the type of pop-up head you use as well. I know when my system was first installed (2010 or so), the Jandy/Caretaker heads had a much stiffer spring which made them harder to pop up. Since then Jandy/Caretaker's pop up heads use a spring that is less stiff and the heads pop up easier with VSPs --- I ended up replacing all 37 of my heads with this newer style about 2.5 years ago.

I do like my in-floor head system. Sure it's a bit gimmicky, and I honestly don't think it does all that much to help "clean" a pool because it's just randomly pushing Crud around on the floor. However I really do like the way the in-floor heads distribute filtered/heated water in 37 different areas of the pool instead of just 2. To me, that's the most beneficial reason to have it.

Anyway, if you have specifics let me know.

 

[Jordywilson]

@Jordywilson if you still have specific in-floor system questions, let me know. My plumbing is definitely setup differently than yours. My SWG is plumbed so that it's able to feed -both- my in-floor heads and my wall returns. I have valves for both the in-floor heads and the wall returns, so I can turn either on/off, or balance them, however I want. Usually I keep my in-floor valve 100% open, and my wall returns around 50% open. I personally like having the heated/chlorinated water (and Muradic Acid drip from my Stenner pump) distributed to various areas of the entire pool (I have 37 in-floor heads, spread out across 7 different zones, where 1 zone is active at a time for a 15 second interval before moving to the next zone), versus having everything distributed back into my pool from only 2 wall returns.

I am using a Pentair VSP for my main filter pump for the first time this year, and the heads pop up just fine even at only 1750 RPMs or less. They also pop up fine even if I'm only running 950 RPMs, but that might be when the wall return's valve is closed or mostly closed --- I can't remember, I can test this if you want? Some of would depend on the type of pop-up head you use as well. I know when my system was first installed (2010 or so), the Jandy/Caretaker heads had a much stiffer spring which made them harder to pop up. Since then Jandy/Caretaker's pop up heads use a spring that is less stiff and the heads pop up easier with VSPs --- I ended up replacing all 37 of my heads with this newer style about 2.5 years ago.

I do like my in-floor head system. Sure it's a bit gimmicky, and I honestly don't think it does all that much to help "clean" a pool because it's just randomly pushing Crud around on the floor. However I really do like the way the in-floor heads distribute filtered/heated water in 37 different areas of the pool instead of just 2. To me, that's the most beneficial reason to have it.

Anyway, if you have specifics let me know.

Appreciate you sharing your insight on it. So as you can see with mine, I can’t have the in-floor completely open and the wall returns partially open at the same time (unless I’m mistaken). However, as long as the in-floors are still cycling through the zones, I don’t mind not really using the wall returns ever since the IFCS should theoretically return water better than wall returns like you said. Whenever I have the pump running at a lower RPM like 1200 or even 1500 though, I’m pretty certain it stops rotating through the zones and just stays in the same spot. So my question is: if that’s the case, then is the water still being returned through all the zones over a period of time, or is it only being returned through the one zone that it left off on when I lowered the RPM? I mention that because for my spa, it has 4 in-floor heads, so I’m assuming that’s the only way water is returned since there are no wall returns in it. I guess I’m confused what is happening when I turn SPA mode on in my automation. I also noticed that if the RPM isn’t high enough (>2500 or 2600), the mechanism inside the valve that is responsible for the IFCS isn’t spinning, and my PB told me the thing needs to be spinning for it to actually be working (the white piece inside the valve in the picture attached). I would definitely want to know if your heads are still popping up and rotating through all the zones when you have your RPM at like 1200. Do you think it’s possible that mine don’t because my Pentair VSP pump and all other equipment is around 30 or 40ft away from the pool/spa?

 

[HermanTX]

I mention that because for my spa, it has 4 in-floor heads, so I’m assuming that’s the only way water is returned since there are no wall returns in it. I guess I’m confused what is happening when I turn SPA mode on in my automation.

When you turn on SPA Mode via automation, the suction is from the spa drain and the return is to the spa jets per your construction photo. There is NO FLOW to the IFCS when in Spa Mode.
The 4 cleaning heads in the spa will just push around the debris when in Pool Mode, but until you turn on SPA mode, there is no suction from the Spa.

 

[Jordywilson]

When you turn on SPA Mode via automation, the suction is from the spa drain and the return is to the spa jets per your construction photo. There is NO FLOW to the IFCS when in Spa Mode.
The 4 cleaning heads in the spa will just push around the debris when in Pool Mode, but until you turn on SPA mode, there is no suction from the Spa.

Oh duh, I’m stupid. I forgot about the spa jets So when the system is in pool mode though, water is being returned through the in-floor systems right? So when it cycles to the spa heads, it’s returning a bit of water there each time?

 

[HermanTX]

So when the system is in pool mode though, water is being returned through the in-floor systems right? So when it cycles to the spa heads, it’s returning a bit of water there each time?

As per the photo, when in Pool Mode, suction is only from the pool, the water is returned to either the pool returns or the IFCS heads depending how you have the manual valve set. You could flow to both by placing the valve in the middle with both pipes open, but that could affect the performance of the IFCS heads. You could test this by moving the valve and try the VS pump at different speeds to see if your heads pop up. When it is time for the spa heads to operate, then the spa water level will increase and overflow back into the pool via the spillover. This is dependent on the length of time the zone for the spa heads are flowing