New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

[PoolStored]

Keep a bag or two, or three on hand for the season. Then you can add immediately.
Also, to be clear, the cell does NOT consume salt. After it makes chlorine, is consumed sanitizing, it is returned as salt to the pool.
The test accuracy is +/- 1 drop for each 10 drops. You used 16 drops, so +/- 300ppm. Don't fret the variation.
Salt is only removed when you replace water (splashout, rain/pump down etc.)

 

[Pas_pool]

Let it be until the cell complains. My IC60 works down to 2800 then produces at a reduced output until shutting off at 2600. If you see your test at 2800, then add a couple hundred to beat it to the punch. But otherwise let it be.

Yeah, that makes sense. Thanks.

You have to keep dropping it as it rises above 7.5. Each round will drop the TA a bit. Around 70 TA, switch to maintaining high 7s from 7.8 to 8.2. If you catch it at 8.0, drop it to 7.8

Of course there is more haha. Thought I had the pool right where I wanted it. Thanks. That doesn't seem too hard to do anymore. So, wait until pH goes about 7.5/7/6 and then add more muriatic acid to get down to 7.2 again?

Also, do you think I am good to know just test once a week? I have been getting a lot of practice testing this last week.

 

[Pas_pool]

Keep a bag or two, or three on hand for the season. Then you can add immediately.

Yup, I have three bags in the basement. Thanks.

Also, to be clear, the cell does NOT consume salt. After it makes chlorine, is consumed sanitizing, it is returned as salt to the pool.
The test accuracy is +/- 1 drop for each 10 drops. You used 16 drops, so +/- 300ppm. Don't fret the variation.
Salt is only removed when you replace water (splashout, rain/pump down etc.)

That is all interesting. I thought it used the salt to create chlorine. Great to know. That makes sense now, that you don't have to replace salt that often.

 

[Newdude]

So, wait until pH goes about 7.5/7/6 and then add more muriatic acid to get down to 7.2 again?

Yup thats it. Then shift to 7.8+ once the TA gets where you want. If you dose over a bit to 7.6 its no biggie.

Also, do you think I am good to know just test once a week?

The FC and Ph likely swing more often than that. Or if not, make sure youre a full blown ninja at them.

Salt / CH / TA and CYA will all be plenty solid to go weekly. Once they prove stable there, go two weeks, then monthy.

 

[Pas_pool]

Yup thats it. Then shift to 7.8+ once the TA gets where you want. If you dose over a bit to 7.6 its no biggie.

The FC and Ph likely swing more often than that. Or if not, make sure youre a full blown ninja at them.

Salt / CH / TA and CYA will all be plenty solid to go weekly. Once they prove stable there, go two weeks, then monthy.

Haha sounds good. It’s crazy that all of this sounds normal to me now, but a week ago I was lost

 

[Pas_pool]

Thoughts on this most recent reading tonight?

In CT we got around 2 inches of rain over the past couple days. I had to waste se water as it was over the skimmers by a decent amount. I brought it back to about halfway up the skimmer.

How is this plan:
- lower SWG from 40% to 20% tonight
- tomorrow after work at 47 oz of muriatic acid to lower pH back to 7.2
- on Friday when stabilizer is delivered add about 2 pounds to get it up to 70

Thoughts? Anything else?

 

[PoolStored]

Seems good!

 

[Newdude]

Same and sick of the wet falling.

 

[sande005]

A great journey! I just scrolled through the 9 screens of learning!

Not much of value to add, except to say that you are really close to the TFP nirvana!

Moving forward, your pool chores will be less and less.
When the TA gets in the 60-70 range you will need only a little acid (if at all) for pH from time to time. Last year, I only used 1/2 gal for the whole summer. Testing pH weekly, or maybe even bi-weekly, will come into it's own. CL will be twice a week, and maybe down to once, depending on the circumstances, and how stable the prior readings seem to be. Aim for the top of the range as your goal number per your CYA level (9-10 if at CYA 70), which gives a great buffer for pool parties, earthworm invasions, dilution due to rain, etc. Note that pH readings become inaccurate if the CL level is above 10. Dial your SWCG up or down as need and the season/CL levels dictate - changes are a bit slow, so don't chase it daily.
While the SWCG will compensate for the usual day-to-day losses, you may want to test after that big party, storm, or other and splash in a bit of liquid to get it back to the target. But don't fret if it is still in the target range, just avoid getting close to the minimum in the chart.

Then you can play with your pump - the SWCG doesn't care about amount of water, as long as it is the minimum to allow it's flow switch to keep power on. Your HP may care more about speed. And there is overall effectiveness of how well the skimmers collect stuff. So a balancing act. I run mine at a higher speed for 2 hrs in the very early morning to better skim stuff from overnight, then 6 added hours at just enough speed to make the heater happy (it is on a timer), then low for overnight with no heat for cost savings. So I get CL 24/7, low or high skimming 24/7, and heat 8 hrs. Your HP may need a much longer time at a highish speed to keep it pumping heat adequately. And that may change depending on how well it can deal with average daily temps.

By mid summer you will be one with the pool, and fiddling time will be minimal. All that is left is brushing/netting/vacuuming as needed.
In my old bad filter/tablet days I could spend 3-8 hours per week ( and huge dollars at the pool store) dealing with the issues. Now, it is 15 min- 1hr depending on how much cleaning I have to do. But my wife has all sorts of ideas about how I can now spend the extra time....

 

[Pas_pool]

Same and sick of the wet falling.

View attachment 643659

Yup mine got to that level twice in two days and lowered it back down. Sad day seeing balanced water going into your woods

 

[Pas_pool]

A great journey! I just scrolled through the 9 screens of learning!

Not much of value to add, except to say that you are really close to the TFP nirvana!

I appreciate it. It had been crazy learning all I have in the last few weeks. Truly a testament to all of you helping me out.

Moving forward, your pool chores will be less and less.
When the TA gets in the 60-70 range you will need only a little acid (if at all) for pH from time to time. Last year, I only used 1/2 gal for the whole summer. Testing pH weekly, or maybe even bi-weekly, will come into it's own. CL will be twice a week, and maybe down to once, depending on the circumstances, and how stable the prior readings seem to be. Aim for the top of the range as your goal number per your CYA level (9-10 if at CYA 70), which gives a great buffer for pool parties, earthworm invasions, dilution due to rain, etc. Note that pH readings become inaccurate if the CL level is above 10. Dial your SWCG up or down as need and the season/CL levels dictate - changes are a bit slow, so don't chase it daily.
While the SWCG will compensate for the usual day-to-day losses, you may want to test after that big party, storm, or other and splash in a bit of liquid to get it back to the target. But don't fret if it is still in the target range, just avoid getting close to the minimum in the chart.

Yeah, I am still working on getting my CYA up a little more. On Friday my stabilizer from amazon will be delivered so I will add another few pounds to get it up to 70.

That is helpful to know that pH readings become inaccurate with chlorine levels about 10. Mine is high at 14, but I wanted to keep my SWG at 40% until I knew how stabilizer worked. Now that I have a grasp on that, I turned down my SWG to 20% last night. I will wait until tomorrow and test my CL again.

Then you can play with your pump - the SWCG doesn't care about amount of water, as long as it is the minimum to allow it's flow switch to keep power on. Your HP may care more about speed. And there is overall effectiveness of how well the skimmers collect stuff. So a balancing act. I run mine at a higher speed for 2 hrs in the very early morning to better skim stuff from overnight, then 6 added hours at just enough speed to make the heater happy (it is on a timer), then low for overnight with no heat for cost savings. So I get CL 24/7, low or high skimming 24/7, and heat 8 hrs. Your HP may need a much longer time at a highish speed to keep it pumping heat adequately. And that may change depending on how well it can deal with average daily temps.

As of right now I followed PoolStored recommendation to just run my pump 24/7 at 2200rpms. Enough to use my heat pump when I want to (I have not turned it on yet). Is it really worth have a schedule to lower it down overnight to like 1400rpms? I feel like the up and downs could have a negative effect on the pump...but I could be wrong.

My pumps default setting before I changed it was 8-10am was at high speed @ 3000rpm, then 10am-8pm was low @ 1400rpm and then 8-10pm was medium @2200rpm. Then off between 10pm and 8am.

By mid summer you will be one with the pool, and fiddling time will be minimal. All that is left is brushing/netting/vacuuming as needed.
In my old bad filter/tablet days I could spend 3-8 hours per week ( and huge dollars at the pool store) dealing with the issues. Now, it is 15 min- 1hr depending on how much cleaning I have to do. But my wife has all sorts of ideas about how I can now spend the extra time....

I'm so glad I was talked into a SWG pool. It was a last minute pivot. Also, grateful we purchased a betta SE skimmer and Neptune i40 pool vacuum. Both do a great job.

 

[Newdude]

Is it really worth have a schedule to lower it down overnight to like 1400rpms?

You'll drop 500W-ish down to 120W-ish. You aren't going to Disney with the couple of months worth of savings, but 25% is 75% in your pocket.

I feel like the up and downs could have a negative effect on the pump.

Pumps pretty much dont complain unless you dont feed them water. Some turn on and off multiple times a day, others change speeds, others just run for a decade or two straight.

 

[PoolStored]

I feel like the up and downs could have a negative effect on the pump...but I could be wrong.

Pumps are made to run. Doesn't matter speed or speed changes.
Starting and stopping are hard on pumps. Better to just let them run.
Not sure on "down" overnight...what are you thinking?
Read this:

Pump Basics - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Pas_pool]

You'll drop 500W-ish down to 120W-ish. You aren't going to Disney with the couple of months worth of savings, but 25% is 75% in your pocket.

Oh, yes Disney trips. Talk to my wife that likes to try to plan two a year.

 

[Pas_pool]

Pumps are made to run. Doesn't matter speed or speed changes.
Starting and stopping are hard on pumps. Better to just let them run.
Not sure on "down" overnight...what are you thinking?

I'll read that. I was just stating I don't know if the energy savings would be that impactful to have the pump scheduled to lower from 2200 to 1400 during the 10pm to 8am period.

 

[PoolStored]

Are you going to heat at night? Don't run low speed with heater on.
$60/month 2200, $20/month 1400

Pump Cost.png

• PoolStored
• Friday at 6:14 AM

 

[Pas_pool]

Are you going to heat at night? Don't run low speed with heater on.
$60/month 2200, $20/month 1400

Pump Cost.png

• PoolStored
• Friday at 6:14 AM

No, I don't think I would ever plan to use the heat pump at night. I know you looked up my equipment and told me that my heat pump requires 2200rpm so that is why we chose that number to run at 24/7.

 

[Pas_pool]

No, I don't think I would ever plan to use the heat pump at night. I know you looked up my equipment and told me that my heat pump requires 2200rpm so that is why we chose that number to run at 24/7.

Are you going to heat at night? Don't run low speed with heater on.
$60/month 2200, $20/month 1400

Pump Cost.png

• PoolStored
• Friday at 6:14 AM

I am going to go out on a huge limb and say to save about $2 a month or $8-10 a season is not worth having the pump scheduled to drop lower at night and risk not having it at the right RPMs for the heater in case it get turned on when the RPMs are low.

 

[PoolStored]

There is also a procedure for your HP to adjust Delta T to ensure proper flow...Did the builder do that? What RPM did they say would give you 30GPM.
But you may not have the ports...did they install them? Temperature Port Kit (# STK0096)
See Page 13.

https://www.aquacal.com/wp-content/uploads/manuals/landingpage/air_source_installer_hp9/en-us/Content/Resources/CURRENT/LTP0114.pdf

 

[Pas_pool]

There is also a procedure for your HP to adjust Delta T to ensure proper flow...Did the builder do that? What RPM did they say would give you 30GPM.
But you may not have the ports...did they install them? Temperature Port Kit (# STK0096)
See Page 13.

https://www.aquacal.com/wp-content/uploads/manuals/landingpage/air_source_installer_hp9/en-us/Content/Resources/CURRENT/LTP0114.pdf

All good questions. This is the first I am hearing about this so idk. I can ask him.