New pool owner, previous tech let an algae bloom,rehire?
- Thread starter casastevo
- Start date
:lol: :lol: :grrrr:SKC said:linen said:
Is that for after kids swim and may have left something behind?
linen said:
It's not covered - I'll try a OCLT tonight.
linen said:
Awesome, thanks. I guess all the terminology thrown at you when you start learning this stuff is really intimidating, but I'm starting to catch on. Will drop by the pool store today to pick up a thermometer and some baking soda.
Do I just throw it randomly in the pool?
An FC of 26 is just barely at shock level for a pool with a CYA level of 60 ppms, if you take a look at the CYA/Chlorine table in Pool School you will see shock level for a CYA of 60 is listed as an FC of 24 ppms. So yes it is high enough that you probably don't want to swim in it, our general rule of thumb here is that pools are safe to swim in at anything up to their CYA adjusted shock level, but like most rules of thumb this is not an exact science. Of course your ideal target FC level is much lower 7 ppm, so you do need to let it drop a good bit. So what all this means is one good day of sun exposure with no cover on the pool should drop you well into the safe FC range, as long as you have stopped adding chlorine to the pool.
Ike
p.s. broadcasting across the surface works fine for baking soda (can be bought in fairly large bags at Wal-Mart, etc.) , it dissolves very quickly in water, so you don't have to be as careful about its addition as you do with some slow dissolving chemicals like granular CYA, etc.
Ike
p.s. broadcasting across the surface works fine for baking soda (can be bought in fairly large bags at Wal-Mart, etc.) , it dissolves very quickly in water, so you don't have to be as careful about its addition as you do with some slow dissolving chemicals like granular CYA, etc.
Thanks for the advice everyone. You guys are ultra patient and helpful.
On the CYA test, it says to keep adding drops until the black dot disappears. Do you typically do it until it just barely disappears or disappears completely? At CYA 60, I could barely make it out but it was visible. I'm wondering if I should of kept going.
That's what I figured too, but it doesn't seem like it's going down fast at all. I've let it have normal exposure with nothing added since 9/30, and it's registered over 10ppm since I took it to get tested a week later. (9/30 was the last service date of the last company, when it was super shocked).
Stupid question, but if the inline feeder is empty, then there's no chlorine going into the pool. Right?
On the CYA test, it says to keep adding drops until the black dot disappears. Do you typically do it until it just barely disappears or disappears completely? At CYA 60, I could barely make it out but it was visible. I'm wondering if I should of kept going.
Isaac-1 said:
That's what I figured too, but it doesn't seem like it's going down fast at all. I've let it have normal exposure with nothing added since 9/30, and it's registered over 10ppm since I took it to get tested a week later. (9/30 was the last service date of the last company, when it was super shocked).
Stupid question, but if the inline feeder is empty, then there's no chlorine going into the pool. Right?
Yes on both. You should keep going until the dot is gone. If the inline fedder is empty it is not adding Chlorine.
In reality, even though your FC is slightly above SLAM level ... the active chlorine level in the pool with the stabilizer present is still lower than you would find in most public non-stabilized pools.
You can pour the solution back and forth on the CYA test for several minutes to find just the right spot where the dot disappears.
Gave it some time, my pool really sips the chlorine. Guessing this is because it has very little direct sunlight and isn't big? Updated test after a solid 2 days of rain and a couple weeks:
Pool 11/3
70 degrees
22ppm FC
0ppm CC
7.4 pH
40TA
400CH
40CA
12k gallon pool (really need to measure for this too) estimated, so added 3.5lbs of baking soda. Should I let the pump run for a while and test again tomorrow? 2 hours run time to circulate the baking soda?
Trying to bring up my TA a bit and will continue waiting until the FC levels falls to around 10 so I can accurately test PH.
Pool 11/3
70 degrees
22ppm FC
0ppm CC
7.4 pH
40TA
400CH
40CA
12k gallon pool (really need to measure for this too) estimated, so added 3.5lbs of baking soda. Should I let the pump run for a while and test again tomorrow? 2 hours run time to circulate the baking soda?
Trying to bring up my TA a bit and will continue waiting until the FC levels falls to around 10 so I can accurately test PH.
I actually did it twice, the first time with the 10mL sample but it turned after just two drops. So I did it again with a bigger sample to be more precise and it turned right at 4 drops. Why - do you suspect I did it wrong?
Just as a review, you should run your pump maybe 30 minutes or so before you test so your pool is well blended. Pump run time of 30-60 minutes after you apply chemistry is also a good guideline.
Your pH (once FC goes below 10 ppm) is lower than it currently tests (maybe as low as 7.0 or so) so that would sorta' validate your TA being that low.....they tend to move together.
If it was my pool, I think I would just let FC drift on down to 10 ppm and then adjust TA and pH. 20 Mule team Borax is the best way to adjust your pH up (if need be) but remember it will also drive TA up at the same time, so you may have no need for baking soda
Your pH (once FC goes below 10 ppm) is lower than it currently tests (maybe as low as 7.0 or so) so that would sorta' validate your TA being that low.....they tend to move together.
If it was my pool, I think I would just let FC drift on down to 10 ppm and then adjust TA and pH. 20 Mule team Borax is the best way to adjust your pH up (if need be) but remember it will also drive TA up at the same time, so you may have no need for baking soda