New Pool Owner - Gunite Pool - rust staining after shock and levels?

[thatracer05]

Hi All -

New pool owner (bought house) with a 50x20, 30,000 gallon - plaster/gunite pool in direct sunlight... I've recently encountered some issues and I believe its 2 fold and looking for some advice from seasoned pool guys.

1) I was using up granular shock and reading directions it said to broadcast into pool. So I was "sprinkling it" into the pool... Sometimes I'd broom after 15 minutes - sometime not until 2-3 hours later - and I can't be sure I got all of it stirred around... The next day or after cleaning - I noticed what I thought was maple leaves on the bottom of the pool - around the areas where I sprinkled shock.. This appears to be rust staining. (I have very irony well water up here).. Is this because of the chlorine sitting in granular form on the floor?

2) After some reading I also believe that I am supposed to mix the shock in a bucket first, dissolve it - and then dump it in the pool... Is that correct?

3) My current levels are:
FCL: .56
TCL - 2.16
PH - 7.1
ALK 108

Help!?

I have a Hayward Chlorinator, but I don't think it is working properly - its on full and I'm seeing these levels after running the pool pump overnight and shocking yesterday - where more brown stains showed up...

I also haven't been using CYA... should I be buying and adding this?

Thanks guys.

Mike

 

[Texas Splash]

Hi Mike and welcome! It looks like you have a few issues really. Let's go over them:
1. You appear to be using the pool store test results right? That's never good for you water or checking account. We recommend a TF-100 (link below in my signature) or a Taylor K-2006C. You really need to have one of those to cut the cord from what could be unreliable tests. We see it often. See Test Kits Compared
2. Yes, iron reacts to chlorine (and an elevated ph), so watch out for both of those. Also see Stains in Your Pool - Trouble Free Pool
3. The broadcast spreading of the granules shouldn't have been a problem, but you do need to sweep them a bit so they aren't sitting in one spot.
4. Using the chlorinator with pucks is okay for short term use and only when you know your CYA isn't too high. (again the test kit). For daily chlorine, you really should consider using pool chlorine (aha regular bleach - same thing). No side effects.

Take advantage of our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and I highly encourage you to get your own TF-100. You'll be glad you did.

 

[thatracer05]

Hi Texas -

I have a ColorQ7 test kit here at home.. no good? I actually haven't been testing or even checking the CYA... so that's an issue right there.

Mike

 

[thatracer05]

Realized I have another problem right there... I have been using BioGuards Algaecide just because... well its copper based - that could also be a problem. Will stop that right away.

 

[thatracer05]

heck... I have the BioGuard 3 step system which has copper in everything apparently... Should I be ditching this and getting something else?

 

[Originalrocket]

Yes, a proper test kit and liquid chlorine. Please see Post #2 for all the details. Check out pool school and read the basics. I'm a recent convert from the pool store to the TFPC method preached here. It's basically test your levels and add chlorine. Minor tweaks along the way, but its so easy afterward. Just keep the chlorine level in the target zone and you are good to go! I never thought maintaining my pool could be so cheap, and the results are spectacular.

 

[Texas Splash]

So you're on a well and may also have excessive copper huh? Well, that could make things interesting. If either level is too high there's not much you can do but try to contain it with a good sequestrant or have fresh water trucked-in. In the meantime, try to keep your FC from getting too high (while avoiding algae) and ensure the pH doesn't get too high as well. The Bioguard products will not serve you well. Your water needs chlorine for proper sanitation, but only the proper amount based on your current CYA. They go together as you can see on the FC/CYA Levels. The TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) is perfect for that and all other testing. The ColorQ can provide some data, but generally isn't as reliable as the other two.