New Pool First Post

whiteviper007

New member
Jun 4, 2024
3
Northwest Arkansas
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Pool company finished my pool just in time to fill and winterize last year. When I opened it this year (2 weeks ago) it looked great and still does, but I want to make sure it stays that way.

What should I do first?

Gunite pool. Is that the same as plaster that I read about on here?

I have an auto cover and plan to keep covered when not in use.

Typical useage will be 2-4 hours after work at least 3 days a week and then 4-6 hours a day on the weekend with an average of 2 adults and 4 kids playing hard and jumping in alot.

My pump is a Pentair Superflo VST variable speed pump

Sand filter is a Pentair Tagelus TA-100D

After reading these fourms I think I may have been duped on the FROG mineral system. Should I just let the bac pac run out and disconnect it? Should I use it when I go on vacations to maintain?

Had some fun remembering my chemistry class using the Taylor K-2006C. Ran the tests a few times each and feel pretty comfortable on my numbers below.

Stats:
PH =7.5
CYA = 0 (water never even started to look cloudy)
FC = 1
CC = 0
TA = 70
CH =120

I have been letting the FROG keep the FC at around 1, and after heavy use throwing in a little granular chlorine to help get back up to 4 FC and then settle back down to 1 with the FROG.

We do alot of swimming in lakes and rivers no chlorine and don't have issues. Why is keeping the pool at 1 FC bad?

My first thoughts are I need to get CH up to 300ppm and CYA up to 20.

Any opinions are appreciated.

Playing around with pool math. What should my goal stats be. If you need more info let me know.
 
What should I do first?
Purchase a reliable test kit so that you know what's going on.

I posted the technical details in your intro thread but here's the explanation:


We do alot of swimming in lakes and rivers no chlorine and don't have issues. Why is keeping the pool at 1 FC bad?
With an endless or not endless but gazillion gallon supply, swimmer to swimmer transmissions are all but eliminated. Algae isn't a problem, it's harmless and probably all over those lakes and streams. But it's the canary in the coal mine and if it can proliferate, so can viruses, bacteria and pathogens.
My first thoughts are I need to get CH up to 300ppm and CYA up to 20.
Post #s from an approved test kit if both the pool and your fill water and we'll go from there.
 
Newdude - I am a little confused by your post. I purchased the Taylor K-2006C and that is how I came up with the results is listed. (I ran tests a few times to make sure i was doing them right and got the same results). I am looking for advise on what i need to do next.

Stats:
PH =7.5
CYA = 0 (water never even started to look cloudy)
FC = 1
CC = 0
TA = 70
CH =120
 
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