New Pool Chlorine expectations

[CallieQ]

Recently, we installed a relatively inexpensive metal frame pool, approximately 20' x 48". We upgraded the pump to a Swimline 0.5HP sand filter and added a Hayward skimmer as an alternative to one of the intake. I currently am testing with Taylor 2005C kit and an added Taylor FAS-DPD kit for additional accuracy.
Currently (midday)
FC: 6.6 ppm
CC: 0 ppm
PH:7.8
TA: 90ppm
CH:70 ppm
CYA: below scale

Due to the seasonal nature of pool weather in CT, our intention is to disassemble and store at the end of the summer season, so we initially decided to use Trichlor tablets in a floating dispensor without having to be so concerned about raising cya levels.

However, I'm struggling to maintain free chlorine above 0.6-0.8 at the end of the day. There is no chlorine loss overnight, or evidence of algae (even slick water). Currently, we are dosing heavy nightly (10-15ppm) to get through to the next evening at or near 1PPM with either Calhypo 65% or liquid chlorine. We are still running the pump about 12hrs daily. Water is crystal clear with a slight green color from copper. Curlator installed a few days ago, has shown progress in reducing tint.

The pool is in the sun all day, and we have had some very warm weather the last few days, but I don't see that the trichol will ever be able to keep up.

I have purchased stabilizer (cya) to raise the level to about 40-50ppm as a starter dose, but will this allow us to get to the point of keeping up with the necessary chlorine levels with just the trichlor?

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
You need to add at least 30 ppm CYA worth of stabilizer to start to protect the FC from the sun.
If you use trichlor, that is fine, watch your pH as it is very acidic. Add additional chlorine to keep your FC at target range for the CYA. Test CYA every couple weeks so you can adjust the FC levels. When your CYA reaches 60 ppm, drain half the pool and replace with fresh water and go from there.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[mknauss]

Water is crystal clear with a slight green color from copper.

How did you start with copper in the water?
Do realize those culator things are pretty much worthless. If you have copper in the water, the pool needs to be drained and refilled to get rid of the copper.

 

[CallieQ]

We have actual seen improvements with the curlator, the copper is from our well water, which was filtered using a metals filter.. I'm not paying for water nor waiting to get it delivered by truck.

 

[mknauss]

I'm not paying for water nor waiting to get it delivered by truck.

Then you do not want to use trichlor for your daily chlorination method.

 

[CallieQ]

What precludes using trichlor with well water? The level of copper is likely less than a ppm, as the green tint/cast is only visible against the white of the liner sides.

 

[CallieQ]

Welcome to the forum!
You need to add at least 30 ppm CYA worth of stabilizer to start to protect the FC from the sun.
If you use trichlor, that is fine, watch your pH as it is very acidic. Add additional chlorine to keep your FC at target range for the CYA. Test CYA every couple weeks so you can adjust the FC levels. When your CYA reaches 60 ppm, drain half the pool and replace with fresh water and go from there.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

Thank you, I have read a good portion of it. I didn't initially preload with CYA as I knew that the Trichlor tabs did contain a fair amount and the "pool store" indicated that it wasn't necessary. We are using them for convenience rather than anything else. Many years ago, when we had an IG, I was an early adopter of the BBB method, but I never set up from scratch as that pool had been mismanaged for years prior...

 

[mknauss]

What precludes using trichlor with well water?

Rising CYA. You will need to drain a lot of water often to control the CYA level. Adding more well water will add more copper.

You are sure it is copper and not iron? Copper is very rare from a water source. Normally only added by using copper algaecide, copper sulfate, or copper ionizers.

 

[CallieQ]

We have very low ph water (less than 6) so it could be both/either actually. We get copper stains on our fixtures ( pretty blues) That's why we prefiltered the water. I could take a sample to work and dessicate it and check for residual chemistry but it isn't as bad as I expected after filtering.

 

[CallieQ]

Sock fully of dry stabilizer hanging near the return, shooting for 30PPM.