New Pool Chemistry Questions

I just want to confirm that your comparitor block is the one with the large round tube section for pH, not the smaller square tube? Both are from Taylor and they use different reagents (both phenol red though) so this might explain the confusion??
View attachment 93207 Or this smaller one from the Basic Taylor K-1000 kit==>
HDX/PoolMaster Kits to Test PH - Not a good idea

Maddie, I have neither of those. It is a comparator with two tubes and came with the Taylor K-2006C Test Kit. Here is a picture:
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The halogens include chlorine and bromine and its really high FC interference on the pH test. It’s descibed on the Taylor site as the sample and indicator mix being more purple than red. I don’t know if anything else like O3 might cause it but the fix is one drop of R0007 in the sample before the indicator.
 
Consider getting PH Meters

They read higher pH levels and don’t have chemical interference. It will help you figure out what your pH issues are.
 
JohnnyRBravo, I loved the cartoon back in the days I watched cartoons with my young daughter.

I, too, have the Taylor K-2006C test kit. It comes with the “testing and treatment guide” booklet. Which indicates that 15 drops of the acid demand (R-0005) reagent requires 4.29 quarts of MA. Even with an ~11k pool, I wouldn’t ever recommend dosing a gallon of MA at one time.

Using pool math’s “effects of adding chemicals” indicates that 128 oz (1 gallon) of MA to a 10k gallon pool (Taylor booklet) will lower pH by 3.07. Which indicates you could have pH around 11
 
I suggest you assume your pool is 8.2 pH and skip the acid demand test. Use PoolMath and tell it you want to reduce your pH to 7.4. Use that dose and repeat as needed until your pH comes down into the 7's.

Pump running, 1 hour between doses is adequate time for a good mix.
 
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