New pool - chemistry issues

[dwalker4907]

Hey there. New to the forum and first time SWG pool owner here. I've read through a lot of the info on the website and some of the forum threads but feel like I might need a little one-one-one help. Think I have a good idea of what to do but looking for some reaffirmation.

We got our pool done and filled in late July. Filter, pump, SWG all up and running. Salt level is at 3,000 ppm. My issue is that I've been running the pump/filter/SWG about 12 hours a day and I can't get the chlorine level to even register on my tests. Only once in the last 40+ days has my test shown a chlorine level and it was barely registering then, probably < 1 ppm.

My PH has been staying too high, over 8 for sure. I've put probably four or five 5 lb bags of the Clorox PH reducer in it over the last month or so. PH will come down into the 7's for a day or so and then bounce back up the next day. After doing research on this, I figure I need to get the alkalinity down first right? And yes, my alkalinity is staying too high too, but again, using the PH reducer granules don't seem to be doing the trick. Should lower the alkalinity/PH with muriatic acid instead of the Clorox PH reducer? Is it true that the more I run the SWG, the more the PH will increase? Is the high PH and alkalinity the cause of my chlorine not registering when I test the water?

 

[Newdude]

Hey Dustin and Welcome !!!

My issue is that I've been running the pump/filter/SWG about 12 hours a day and I can't get the chlorine level to even register on my tests

What % is the cell running ?

Is the pump running during the day or night ?

has my test shown

How are you testing ?

When are you testing ?

After doing research on this, I figure I need to get the alkalinity down first right?

What is the TA ?

Should lower the alkalinity/PH with muriatic acid instead of the Clorox PH reducer?

Always. Dry acid adds sulfates which are no Beuno.

Is it true that the more I run the SWG, the more the PH will increase?

No. But running the pump creates aeration which will make the Ph rise.

Is the high PH and alkalinity the cause of my chlorine not registering when I test the water?

They are not related.

 

[dwalker4907]

Hey Dustin and Welcome !!!


What % is the cell running ?

Is the pump running during the day or night ?

How are you testing ?

When are you testing ?

What is the TA ?

Always. Dry acid adds sulfates which are no Beuno.

No. But running the pump creates aeration which will make the Ph rise.

They are not related.

I have varied the % on the cell because I can't seem to find any recommendations on what % to run it at and for how long. At first, when I couldn't get the chlorine level to show on tests, I started running it on super chlorinate all day. I have since backed off to 50%. Today, I dropped it to 15% to see what that does. I have been letting the pump/filter/SWG run all day, like 7am-7pm. Off the rest of the time. I'm testing with a Lupo 5 in 1 water test kit I got on amazon (Amazon.com). I have tested the water morning, mid-day, and evening. Same results always. Last time I checked TA, it was high, like 200-300 but havent tested in a few days. I will test that again tonight.

 

[Newdude]

I have varied the % on the cell because I can't seem to find any recommendations on what % to run it at and for how long

Your cell makes about 8 FC per 24 hours @ 100% in your pool. Most see about 4 ppm loss per day in the peak season, and less the further you get on both ends. Think of a bell curve that starts at 1, ramps up to 4, then falls back to 1 again.

You need to adjust it periodically to match the recent UV loss.

I'm testing with a Lupo 5 in 1 water test kit I got on amazon (Amazon.com)

Well it's way better than test strips or the pool store, so good job there. The FC test is vague and not that accurate though. You need to add a Taylor K1515 fas/dpd test for an actual FC value.

Also a liquid CYA test as that sets the appropriate FC level. As the CYA rises, the FC needs to rise proportionately to match.




Have some reading.
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
Test Kits Compared

Last time I checked TA, it was high, like 200-300 but havent tested in a few days. I will test that again tonight

That will certainly pull the Ph up quickly. Get a new reading and report back. Also order the FC and CYA kits

 

[proavia]

Welcome to TFP!

Turning the SWG percentage to a lower number will reduce the chlorine the cell makes.
A SWG is good for maintaining an FC level, not so good for increasing FC - especially if the FC has been low, as a nascent algae bloom may have already begun.

It may be best to dose with liquid chlorine until you get the pool under control.

Do the reagents in your present test kit have an expiration date?
I tend to shy away from using Amazon for test kit reagents as Amazon tends to stock pile items and the reagents aren't always fresh.

You may be better served by getting one of the recommended test kits.
The TF-Pro Salt would be the best value for you and your pool.
Test Kits Compared

Post a full set of current test results
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH (not overly important in a fiberglass pool, unless you have a heater - good to have a baseline though)
CYA
Salt (from a drop based test kit, not the SWG reading)
Water temperature

 

[dwalker4907]

Your cell makes about 8 FC per 24 hours @ 100% in your pool. Most see about 4 ppm loss per day in the peak season, and less the further you get on both ends. Think of a bell curve that starts at 1, ramps up to 4, then falls back to 1 again.

You need to adjust it periodically to match the recent UV loss.

Well it's way better than test strips or the pool store, so good job there. The FC test is vague and not that accurate though. You need to add a Taylor K1515 fas/dpd test for an actual FC value.

Also a liquid CYA test as that sets the appropriate FC level. As the CYA rises, the FC needs to rise proportionately to match.

View attachment 609374


Have some reading.
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
Test Kits Compared






That will certainly pull the Ph up quickly. Get a new reading and report back. Also order the FC and CYA kits

Just tested it. PH is currently about 7.8-8.0. TA is 160. FC is 0 (water sample is basically completely clear). Pump/Filter/SWG have been running for 11 hours today on 15%. I'm going to get some muriatic acid tomorrow and try getting it down more with that. The Clorox PH reducer is working but like i said, bounces back up in a day or two.

 

[dwalker4907]

Welcome to TFP!

Turning the SWG percentage to a lower number will reduce the chlorine the cell makes.
A SWG is good for maintaining an FC level, not so good for increasing FC - especially if the FC has been low, as a nascent algae bloom may have already begun.

It may be best to dose with liquid chlorine until you get the pool under control.

Do the reagents in your present test kit have an expiration date?
I tend to shy away from using Amazon for test kit reagents as Amazon tends to stock pile items and the reagents aren't always fresh.

You may be better served by getting one of the recommended test kits.
The TF-Pro Salt would be the best value for you and your pool.
Test Kits Compared

Post a full set of current test results
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH (not overly important in a fiberglass pool, unless you have a heater - good to have a baseline though)
CYA
Salt (from a drop based test kit, not the SWG reading)
Water temperature

See some of the current test results above. I don't know how to test for CC, CH, or CYA. Salt level is 2900 right now but that's the reading from the SWG control box. I dont have a drop based test kit for salt. Water temp is currently 76 degrees (no heater and we've had some 50 degree nights lately, so our swimming season is about over).

 

[Newdude]

FC is 0

You either have the start of an algae outbreak eating as much FC as you can add (its microscopic and by the time you can see it, it's way too late).

Or the CYA is low and the sun is burning it off as fast as you can add it.

Or (both) the low cya issue allowed algae in the door.

You need the CYA test and the K1515. (And also a k1766 for salt) Then at some point you'll need to replace what you have but the others will be good and you're probably better off just starting out new with a TF100 salt or TFpro salt from TFtestkits.net.

(A Taylor K2006 or k2006C are also acceptable, but aren't good values compared to the others).

 

[TinFoilHat]

Please order one of the test kits mentioned above so that you can properly measure your Free Chlorine and CYA. That is necessary to get this pool under control. Liquid chlorine in an amount equal to 5 ppm per day is probably close to 1/2 gallon per day. Put that in daily while the filter is running and then get a proper test kit so we know where you really stand. You won't get acceptable test results from the pool store or test strips or a two bottle testing kit.

 

[wireform]

Aside from all the above super good advice, what does the filter gauge show for pressure compared to when new or freshly cleaned known psi.
One more recommendation, is to fill in your pool signature like mine below with all and everything connected to the pool.

 

[proavia]

See some of the current test results above. I don't know how to test for CC, CH, or CYA. Salt level is 2900 right now but that's the reading from the SWG control box. I dont have a drop based test kit for salt. Water temp is currently 76 degrees (no heater and we've had some 50 degree nights lately, so our swimming season is about over).

You really need accurate test results for all parameters I listed in post #5
To get those, you need one of the recommended test kits.
As mentioned, the TF-Pro Salt would be your best overall value.
Test Kits Compared

While waiting for your test kit to arrive:

• What does the water look like? Post a few pictures of pool and pool equipment.
• With pump running, add one entire gallon of liquid chlorine - either 10% or 12.5% is the usually strength. This will raise the FC between 4.5 ppm and 5.7 ppm based on strength mentioned.
• Leave pump running and test for chlorine 15-30 minutes after adding that gallon.
• Report back here what reading you get on your test kit. We can then advise how much chlorine to add daily until you can accurately test with your new test kit.

It is imperative to have accurate test results. Those can't be provided by your present test kit or by the pool store.

Fill out your signature with pool, all pool equipment (include manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info (best to list the newly ordered kit).
This will assist us in providing you help without needing to ask you each time for this important information.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature