New Pool, Builder doesn't want to add CYA until Spring

[randys]

This is week 3 of our inground pool and it's fall and 65F outside. We only got one swim and there is no concrete around the pool yet (coming in two weeks).

This will be a salt pool, but the pool company doesn't want to add the Salt or the CYA until spring. They claim that the generator won't do anything now anyway. So for now, i'm using tablets and 65% shock.

I'm a bit confused, because even though the SWG won't do anything, won't the salt lower my freezing point and won't the CYA protect my FC?

Right now I am having trouble. I test FC and it's at 0PPM. I bring it to 4PPM that night and the next morning it still seems fine. Then in the afternoon it's 0 again. This is an 18,500gallon pool that is always in full sun winter or summer. Pool company says that I don't need CYA in the winter. So I am confused. I'm using a Taylor test kit and believe the tests to be accurate.

HELP!

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

You still need CYA. In fact, you are adding it, slowly, with the trichlor tablets.

Raise your CYA to 30 ppm and use liquid chlorine.

Salt depends. Is this a new plaster pool? Please add a signature. Read Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
Information in your signature will show up each time you post and it makes advice more accurate as we know what equipment we are dealing with.

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

You may also want to get the Pool Math app.

 

[randys]

Thanks @mknauss. I have updated my signature. I have a vinyl liner pool. The PB owes me salt and CYA, should I just ask them to put it in now despite their recommendation? I hate to be the guy who gets a pool and pretends to know more than the builder the first month.

 

[mknauss]

Sadly if you spend a bit of time here on the forum I will guarantee you will know more about water chemistry than your builder.

The only reason not to add the salt is if you get large rains and the pool overflows, thus losing some of the salty water. So sort of up to you on adding it now or later. As far as CYA, you can use the tablets for the winter or add some CYA. Again, will not make much difference over the winter.

Now in the spring, prior to the water reaching 60F, get the salt up to the level you need and CYA to 70 ppm.

 

[randys]

I also don't want to be the person who shows up on the forum the first few months I need help and doesn't contribute back, so sorry for the 1001 questions for now. I'll try to give back later I have another question.. Is having a tablet in the skimmer enough to keep away the Algae in a pool under 70F water temp? Right now water temp hovers around 65F. I have a Taylor K-2005 (high) and so I can't measure low levels of chlorine (always get 0). I have "unmelted" chlorine tablets in the skimmer, but it's hard to know how much is being released and if it's enough to keep up with sanitation demand. Water right now is crystal clear, even at night with the lights. I used a clarifier the other day after the rain sent a ton of clay (pre-deck cement) into the pool.

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to get the rest of the dirt out of the corners of the pool, but I think i'll wait for cement (Nov. 5) and try to brush it into the mains. The robot picks up some, but I'd have to keep running it and running it before it gets every last nook and cranny.

 

[mknauss]

First, Get a floater for the pucks. Putting them in the skimmer is very damaging to the skimmer and your pool equipment.

Second, try to not use a clarifier. It is glue, and gums up your filter. You will need to break down and clean your DE filter to get rid of it.

Use Effects of Adding Chemicals in PoolMath. While the water is warm add at least 3 ppm FC worth of bleach each day. Plus the pucks. Also order a FAS/DPD Chlorine CC's test now so you can test your FC.

 

[randys]

The SWG manual recommends 30ppm CYA. I see troublefreepool recommends 70ppm... that's a big difference!

 

[mknauss]

The SWG manual recommends 30ppm CYA. I see troublefreepool recommends 70ppm... that's a big difference!

Yes it is.

Take a look at Pool Water Chemistry

 

[randys]

Yes it is.

Take a look at Pool Water Chemistry

Yeah. I just read up on the theory. Makes sense. Thanks

 

[randys]

Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

You still need CYA. In fact, you are adding it, slowly, with the trichlor tablets.

Raise your CYA to 30 ppm and use liquid chlorine.

Salt depends. Is this a new plaster pool? Please add a signature. Read Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
Information in your signature will show up each time you post and it makes advice more accurate as we know what equipment we are dealing with.

I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

You may also want to get the Pool Math app.

I followed this advice. Last night brought Chlorine up to 4ppm using 77oz liquid chlorine. Pool store was cheapest option with 1 Gallon, 12% at about $5 each including tax. Brought CYA up to 30ppm. After adding CYA, FC seemed to drop by .5... and today we had a 74F day (pool water got to 64F) and I only lost another .5FC from the sun! So it worked! Previously I was losing 4ppm Chlorine from a days sun. Today I only lost .5.

Does this all seem normal?

 

[mknauss]

At this time of year, yes. The FC loss to UV dramatically drops as the sun angle drops.