New pool build (in-town Houston)

Travelguy73

Active member
Aug 16, 2020
25
Houston
Never built a pool before, but we received our first of 3 quotes on a new inground pool, and I'm listing below in case there is any feedback (good and bad) we should keep in mind as we move through the process. We are keeping it as simple as possible to stay within our $50-60k budget (including all the extra work to sprinklers, drainage, and landscaping we have to do).

I have been trying to educate myself on whether to get a SWG, and I'm so perplexed as to why the pool buildings are against them when it seems everyone on here loves them. I mean, this particular PB will make us sign a waiver??

Site challenges:
(1) 100-year flood plain permeability rules. A rough calculation shows we are well within the impermeability limit, but not sure of the extra cost of permitting yet.
(2) We think the house's waste sewer line runs right through the backyard (main sewer line is in the rear easement). Not sure what relocating it will cost, but the first PB said it's cheaper if we take care of it ourselves.
(3) Access to the backyard is barely over 6' wide between garage and screened patio.

On to the fun stuff:
Dimensions: overall, 18'x28' (though that's with the steps, the main area is 14'x28')
92ft perimeter; 418 sq ft
~14,900 gallons
Depth: 3.5ft x 4.75ft x 6ft
No spa or water feature
Steel: #4 rebar walls and floors
Gunite: 8" walls and 10" floor
Coping: travertine 15" (standard, not sure what other options are available yet)
Decking: Poured concrete squares (specific layout and sizing not final, but roughly ~18 of them for 400 sq ft)
2 umbrella sleeves, might add more
Finish: Pebble sheen in White (not sure what this finish is, but it is standard)
Long bench entire length of pool
Pump: Pentair Intelliflow VSF
Filter: Pentair clean and clear 420
Cleaner: Pentair racer with booster <--is this the thing that goes in the pool itself to clean it?
Controller: Pentair EasyTouch P8 <--Do I need this or can I get the smaller P4 model?)
Remote: Screen Logic bundle (adapter and wireless kit) <--is this necessary if we don't have a spa?)
Sanitizer: Rainbow inline chlorinator; Intellichlor salt chlorinator (must sign waiver)
Lights: (2) Pentair GloBrite LED 12v
Plumbing: (2) Paramount Venturi skimmers
(2) SDX Main drains
Auto fill (Paralevel)

We have discussed adding a heater/chiller, and they quoted an AquaCal 120 for close to $7k. But we don't know if we want one yet, so would prefer to add it later. The pool will get full sun most of the day (the only shade relief coming in the morning and then late evening).

And below are a few views of the design. Our aesthetic is modern and our house is a mid-century ranch, so we weren't interested in curvy lines or water features.
The pool looks too close to the house, but I think they are being conservative with the aerial easement, so hopefully we can shift it a couple of feet to the back of the lot.
The paver design and sizing hasn't been finalized, which is why the layout is a bit wonky (but gives the general idea). I think we would put Zoysia in between them for softness and runoff. The brown planters are actually our raised vegetable garden, which we want to keep (surrounded by blackstar gravel, which we can modify, but generally keep).
 

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Howdy fellow Houstonian, welcome to the TFP forum.
Obviously you have been reading about SWG and see no reason not go that way. However, save the cost of the in-line chlorinator as that is not needed. Be curious as to why your PB wants you to sign a wavier. Can you expand on that?

Your design looks nice and functional for your space. My only concern is the amount of grass you have so near the pool. First, it will be an area that will track grass and mud into the pool and second, any splashing will eventually kill that area. Have you thought about pavers around the whole perimeter?

Suggest you have 2 skimmers at opposite ends and have each independently plumbed back to the equipment pad for better control.
Pentair equipment is fine. You could save money by not having the pressure operated cleaner and the required booster pump and just go with a electric driven robot cleaner. Lots of pros and cons in the forum.

If you think you add a heater/chiller in future, best you plan for it now. Ensure your equipment pad is big enough and layout the plumbing to make it easy to add. Your PB should provide you a plumbing schematic and layout.

Others will jump in on the points you requested. Keep us posted as you get additional bids.
 
Thanks! I don't know what the waiver entails, though this is a very large PB so I assume it's written by their legal group to protect them from corrosion claims?

The design shown makes it look like there will be much more grass than actual (meaning, the planting bed already exists and is actually deeper than shown). I think there will be maybe 2' of grass along the back, but your point is taken. We might be able to add more pavers depending on our property impermeability percentage. We can't cover more than 65% of the lot (pool/house/drive/sidewalk), and I calculate with the pool and decking shown, we will be at 55%. This leaves us some wiggle room for more decking.

I need to get quotes on the rerouting of the sewer line. One PB said it would be "a few thousand" which sounds fine. On Nextdoor, people are saying $7-10k, which seems ridiculous.
 
We rerouted our sewer line that flowed into our neighbor's line behind us. Houston requires that our sewer be routed to the street in front of our house and not join any neighbor's sewer line. We got several bids from plumbers and all were $13-$15K and none said they would use existing sewer taps. We found a plumber that was used by a house renovator/general contractor down the street a few blocks from us. This plumber bid just under $7K if he could locate the sewer tap and an additional $6K if he had to make his own tap into the sewer. Luckily the plumber found the existing tap about 6 feet east of the expected location per an inaccurate map of the lines. Our french drains used the same ditch as the new sewer lines but our front lawn has still not recovered. Our lot size is 50 x 100' so the sewer line was about half the lot depth of 100' (i.e., our new sewer line is about 50'). We were okay with replacing our sewer line for a couple of reasons: a) we wanted a pool; b) our sewer was clay and really old as our house is over 130 years old; c) apparently a few years ago the city of Houston told everyone with communal sewer lines to the street. Some mortgage companies will check this before approving new loans.

Regarding Houston pool company bids - none wanted to bid on the pool deck, tree/stump removal, sprinkler repairs and landscaping but I wish I had pushed them to include everything. 6' of access is enough to get a small backhoe into your yard, and based on the pictures, you have enough space beside the pool to turn the backhoe around. If this is actually the case, then it should not be too much more expensive to excavate although the PB will probably try to get you on this.

Other thoughts: I got bullnosed coping since we only have steps in one corner and my kids are always climbing out from all sides. The 6' deep end is the most popular part of the pool for my pre-teens so definitely do at least 6' and more of it if possible - it may keep the water cooler in the summer(?). The bench along the back is great as I have that too. I did not research pool construction and only found TFP afterwards and I have UV/Ozone and an in-line chlorinator for tabs. I now use liquid chlorine as my CYA is too high (we turned on our pool in March). The PBs we're all very much against SWG but my builder did offer a Pentaire Intellichem afterwards that would add liquid chlorine and acid as needed (but I didn't research it - how does it know how much CYA I have?). I have shade for about half the day and I used my heater all summer (it only takes an hour or two to raise the temperature to 88 degrees), so maybe add a sun shade after if necessary or use your umbrellas.

One last piece of advice - have an experienced neighbor attend your pool school session because you may not know what you need to learn (I was so ignorant that I didn't learn how to clean the filters, set the autofill, clean the pre-filters before the pumps, clean the cyclone filter, check that the UV/Ozone is even working (still don't know and not concerned about it as I don't think it costs much to run).

Good luck and let me know how everything turns out.
 
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