New pool and first summer season

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jimmythegreek said:
definitely lower the speed, usually 1200 on average is enough to satisfy the flow switch and have the SWG producing. If you have a pretty good baseline you can start by doubling your percentage and cutting the run time in half. forget what the builder told you. at 2400 your pool is probably clean in an hour the skimmer(s) should be working great. If you are gonna run longer turn the speed down unless you dont care about the electric and/or noise
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I had thought of that but like I noted below I was a little concerned when I turned it down as it seemed to produce bigger gas bubbles out of one return and the chlorine wasn’t mixing in as well maybe? I didn’t want one of the kids standing in front of that return getting blasted with the gas or the chlorine. Maybe I should shut down while swimming? When at 23 or 2400 the bubbles are way smaller and the chlorine( I am guessing that the off color liquid coming out with bubbles is that as it makes sense). The pool is small due to lot size so I am sure I am turning the water numerous times a day and like that the chlorine is dosing throughout the day as it heats up. Again all new to me and I understand basic chemistry but still learning all of this stuff and enjoy testing and learning. It’s kind of my new weekend hobby, between OCD for testing and cleaning and just generally like learning new things.
 
The bubbles are hydrogen, not chlorine gas. While flammable, completely non toxic. Virtually harmless in that small quantity. Just don't invert a two liter bottle over the return with a funnel to capture the bubbles and then pass off to a 14 year old kid with a lighter.
 
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Shirker said:
The bubbles are hydrogen, not chlorine gas. While flammable, completely non toxic. Virtually harmless in that small quantity. Just don't invert a two liter bottle over the return with a funnel to capture the bubbles and then pass off to a 14 year old kid with a lighter.
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I though hydrogen from what I read here before. But didn’t know how much may be building in underground lines while running. Pretty hard to ignite underwater so I guess I shouldn’t be to worried. The warning above sounds like part experience and friendly reminder! Although doing the above and me having the lighter maybe a needed test to verify your theory.
As for off color liquid. It looks darker when coming out and goes almost straight up to surface. Maybe it’s more bubbles and the sun and water make it just look not as clear. I haven’t examined real close yet but I only see it at one return and only when the SWG is running. The other returns no bubbles or different colors seen. I may have assumed it was liquid when I see and we all know what assume means.....! I will try to grab a picture next run and see if it can be seen., just know that the bubbles caught my attention first and then could see what I thought was a little different color coming out of that particular return. Usually when I am in the middle of something and don’t have a second to focus. Then by the time I get to it, it’s off. Again just assumed maybe it was the chlorine coming through that return because it’s a shorter run. Maybe the liquid is a little “thicker” or dense and causing shadowing in the water with the chlorine a little less diluted? Sorry maybe I am assuming way to much. I understand that liquids of different density or specific gravities can be seen in the clear water so I kind of chalked it up to that, so maybe like I said shadowing? Not off color
 
Can I go back to the size of your pool? You say its roughly 15 x 20. Even at an average of 4 feet deep, that makes it over 9000 gallons. My pool is 12 x 24, which I consider really small, and its over 9000 gallons. Can you confirm the size of your pool?
 
carnivalday said:
Can I go back to the size of your pool? You say its roughly 15 x 20. Even at an average of 4 feet deep, that makes it over 9000 gallons. My pool is 12 x 24, which I consider really small, and its over 9000 gallons. Can you confirm the size of your pool?
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Per pool builder it is 6.240 gallons but will get exact measurements. Pool is roughly 3-4-6 in depth, sun shelf and stairs at one end and small sitting ledge in deep side so I am pretty sure we are at about that number.
 

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carnivalday said:
Ah, ok. I guess the pool builder should know!
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Man I hope so! Looking at design and they way the bottom is laid out for depths I am pretty sure it’s close to right. Florida subdivision lots are tiny since they want to pack a thousand houses on a 1 acre lot plus retention ponds(aka lake front), massive Oak trees stuck in the tiny front yards and pretty crazy set backs. Can’t wait to move to a non subdivision piece of property one day.
 
Ok everyone I tested using the TFP kit and I am just a tad freaked out! Need advice now as I think my old kit was either way off or way inaccurate.

my pool master pinch penny 5 way kit was giving me the following

FC 6
CC 0
These are talyor Powder kit

PH 7.8-8 looks in between
TA 130

TFP Kit:

FC 6
CC 0
PH 8.2
TA 190!!!! First said 200!!!!!! Never seen it that high
CYA 70. I can barely see dot at 70. This one may take me a few.
CH 450 first attempt came out 525

So after a small stroke over the results I went to pool math app and added 16 ounces of acid. And put pump on quick clean to circulate. I was initially told to only test acid once a week so usually done on Saturday am. I haven’t seen it swing this high since I have taken care of it after pool builder turned over. May be the first couple weeks but it seemed to always sit around 120 and 7.8. Also was told a cup of acid a week is about all I will ever add but I am seeing that’s probably not the case. I haven’t needed to add much water so I am at a loss kind of. I am now unsure of my testing, kits reliability, something weird with pool I have no clue. Summer appears to bring a whole new monster out of this pool since it was open it has been easy and no issue! Now I am getting a little nervous.
Help out the pool rookie!!!
 
Your numbers are probably all correct except for maybe the TA. The TA is very tricky and can have static at the tip of the dropper. So, like in all tests the regent bottle needs to be inverted completely vertically and not sideways. Don't force the drip so all drops are of the same quantity. The TA regent tip has to be wiped between each drop and carefully let the drop go by itself otherwise the TA numbers may be off if the droplet size are small and you use more drops till the color turns. You also don't realy know the PH as it off the charts now. After the MA you put in it may not be where you think it will land and may need to do it again once its registers something concrete.
 
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wireform said:
Your numbers are probably all correct except for maybe the TA. The TA is very tricky and can have static at the tip of the dropper. So, like in all tests the regent bottle needs to be inverted completely vertically and not sideways. Don't force the drip so all drops are of the same quantity. The TA regent tip has to be wiped between each drop and carefully let the drop go by itself otherwise the TA numbers may be off if the droplet size are small and you use more drops till the color turns. You also don't realy know the PH as it off the charts now. After the MA you put in it may not be where you think it will land and may need to do it again once its registers something concrete.
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Yep, that just may be it. I thought the drops looked smaller and I just realized I didn’t follow directions for wiping the tip between drops. Good news is I added only 16oz of MA so even if I was 130 I still added less than the required amount for 130. I plan to retest when I get home tomorrow and will slow down a little and follow the directions.
 
Man that TA test is pretty touchy. Today it looks like the following for Ph and TA

TA 120 (130 first try) this is way more touchy than my first test kit
PH looks like I landed at 7.6
This was result of adding 16 ounces last night after the PH being high and the TA test being skewed
Now debating if I should push TA to 90 and raise PH with my deck jets tomorrow or just shoot for a PH of 7.4. Or just leave it alone until Ph gets back around 7.8. I thought Ph and TA was going to be easy.
 
wireform said:
Let the TA climb to 7.8-8 and then bring it down to 7.2 and then aerate to bring it up or let go by itself.
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When I did the test per direction and slowed down I got more realistic numbers, I got a TA of 110 but my PH seemed to be back up to 7.8 in a day. Maybe this is the spot for the pool? It just seems that now I am seeing more PH and TA activity then the time it was curing. Only change is temperature and I added 2 hours to the pump time. Since we are stuck on a stay at home rule maybe it’s time to experiment with pump speed and timing to see if that helps.
 
Welcome to the forum:wave:

Stop chasing your TA! It is the least influential of the five parameters and you should adjust it only after the others are stable and where you need them to be.

First and foremost is your chlorine. Adjust your FC to match the suggested value in the FC/CYA chart and keep it there. Chlorine is the kingpin for keeping your pool clean. Make chlorine #1 on your priority list and deal with TA last, please.

Next, bring your pH down into the mid 7's and monitor it so it does not go above 8.0 (you will notice your TA will come down as you maintain your pH)

Third, recheck your CYA and make sure you get roughly the same result as before......about 70.

Stop worrying about your pinch-a-penny kit results.......they are as unreliable as the pool store (you should never go back in there)

Trust your TF-100. It is the most accurate kit you can buy.......that's why all of us have been suggesting you get it all along.

Please review "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School..........there is a wealth of knowledge in that one article......absorb it.
 

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