I had thought of that but like I noted below I was a little concerned when I turned it down as it seemed to produce bigger gas bubbles out of one return and the chlorine wasn’t mixing in as well maybe? I didn’t want one of the kids standing in front of that return getting blasted with the gas or the chlorine. Maybe I should shut down while swimming? When at 23 or 2400 the bubbles are way smaller and the chlorine( I am guessing that the off color liquid coming out with bubbles is that as it makes sense). The pool is small due to lot size so I am sure I am turning the water numerous times a day and like that the chlorine is dosing throughout the day as it heats up. Again all new to me and I understand basic chemistry but still learning all of this stuff and enjoy testing and learning. It’s kind of my new weekend hobby, between OCD for testing and cleaning and just generally like learning new things.definitely lower the speed, usually 1200 on average is enough to satisfy the flow switch and have the SWG producing. If you have a pretty good baseline you can start by doubling your percentage and cutting the run time in half. forget what the builder told you. at 2400 your pool is probably clean in an hour the skimmer(s) should be working great. If you are gonna run longer turn the speed down unless you dont care about the electric and/or noise
Uh, there should not be any off color anything coming out with the bubbles. Can you get a picture?off color liquid coming out with bubbles
I though hydrogen from what I read here before. But didn’t know how much may be building in underground lines while running. Pretty hard to ignite underwater so I guess I shouldn’t be to worried. The warning above sounds like part experience and friendly reminder! Although doing the above and me having the lighter maybe a needed test to verify your theory.The bubbles are hydrogen, not chlorine gas. While flammable, completely non toxic. Virtually harmless in that small quantity. Just don't invert a two liter bottle over the return with a funnel to capture the bubbles and then pass off to a 14 year old kid with a lighter.
Will get this next round. Actually forgot to click it on this order. So far my salt tests have been really close between store, test strip and generator controller but want full testing ability.Nobody mentioned THIS for salinity testing.
Per pool builder it is 6.240 gallons but will get exact measurements. Pool is roughly 3-4-6 in depth, sun shelf and stairs at one end and small sitting ledge in deep side so I am pretty sure we are at about that number.Can I go back to the size of your pool? You say its roughly 15 x 20. Even at an average of 4 feet deep, that makes it over 9000 gallons. My pool is 12 x 24, which I consider really small, and its over 9000 gallons. Can you confirm the size of your pool?
Man I hope so! Looking at design and they way the bottom is laid out for depths I am pretty sure it’s close to right. Florida subdivision lots are tiny since they want to pack a thousand houses on a 1 acre lot plus retention ponds(aka lake front), massive Oak trees stuck in the tiny front yards and pretty crazy set backs. Can’t wait to move to a non subdivision piece of property one day.Ah, ok. I guess the pool builder should know!
Yep, that just may be it. I thought the drops looked smaller and I just realized I didn’t follow directions for wiping the tip between drops. Good news is I added only 16oz of MA so even if I was 130 I still added less than the required amount for 130. I plan to retest when I get home tomorrow and will slow down a little and follow the directions.Your numbers are probably all correct except for maybe the TA. The TA is very tricky and can have static at the tip of the dropper. So, like in all tests the regent bottle needs to be inverted completely vertically and not sideways. Don't force the drip so all drops are of the same quantity. The TA regent tip has to be wiped between each drop and carefully let the drop go by itself otherwise the TA numbers may be off if the droplet size are small and you use more drops till the color turns. You also don't realy know the PH as it off the charts now. After the MA you put in it may not be where you think it will land and may need to do it again once its registers something concrete.
When I did the test per direction and slowed down I got more realistic numbers, I got a TA of 110 but my PH seemed to be back up to 7.8 in a day. Maybe this is the spot for the pool? It just seems that now I am seeing more PH and TA activity then the time it was curing. Only change is temperature and I added 2 hours to the pump time. Since we are stuck on a stay at home rule maybe it’s time to experiment with pump speed and timing to see if that helps.Let the TA climb to 7.8-8 and then bring it down to 7.2 and then aerate to bring it up or let go by itself.