New plumbing help

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C

Caupsguy

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Jun 6, 2017
96
Buena Park california
So I’m plumbing a spa that spills over into the pool.
A. (2) 3-way jandy valves
B. 1-way flow valve
C. Water spicket to clean cartridge filters
D. Chlorine feeder (not shown) plumbed just before the 3-way jandy return

please critique and offer your thoughts of my plumbing job. Thanks
 

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Re: New plumbing help

Have you thought about adding a spa bypass return in the spa so that you can have some water flowing into it without running the jets?

My spillover spa has a two way split - spa jets and pool returns. Then the pool returns has two pipes - one goes to the pool returns, and the other to a return mounted low in the spa which provides return water to the spa. There is a ball valve (yuck, I have near term plans to replace it!) on that spa bypass line so I can shut it off or leave it open. This does mean that the spa spills over during normal pool operation, but I like that it is constantly getting fresh, mixed, filtered water while the pump is running.

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You can see the way it's plumbed in the above - the return water is on the left side.

Also, if you're not adding a SWG, make sure you plumb in 16" or so of straight pipe just before the return so that there is space down the road if you decide to add one. I'm going to have to do a number on my pad to add an SWG.
 
Re: New plumbing help

B - Why do you need a check valve here? Is the pump WAY above the pool water level?
C - Why use pool water from the spigot to clean the cartridge? Seems like a waste of your balanced water.
D - What kind of chlorine feeder are you talking about? I hope not a trichlor tablet feeder, but if so, you would need a check valve between it and the heater.

I agree with above that adding a spill over line into the spa off the pool return would make setting the valves a little easier.

Also if your spa is elevated, you will need a check valve on the spill over line or on the spa return line to keep the spa from draining down.
 
Re: New plumbing help

Thanks for the help you guys and Kim.......
no check valve needed-
No spigot needed
No chlorine feeder
Spa not elevated ......no to check valve
Spill over line for spa. Needed

question Jim. My suction side and return side plumbing is 1 1/2 inch schedule 40
but my plumbing leaving the pump, going to filter and heater is 2 inches? Does that make sense to you?

i did do some research and learned that the suction side should be equal or larger than the return side.

And jim and trip. I just want to say thank you for your thoughts and suggestions......I will only speak for myself when I say moving forward I hope to remember that you all help so many people and newbies like me need to remember that when we don’t get answers as quickly as we think we should

finally.........I’m installing. 4 Jandy Valves 1 1/2
 
Re: New plumbing help

By Jim, I assume you mean Jason? ;)

Fairly typical for older pools to have 1.5" PVC in the ground (mine is as well). I upgraded all my equipment pad plumbing to 2" to lower the head loss through all the turns. No issues with doing that.

Did you buy the valves already? If not, I would suggest the 2-2.5" valve size as they are less restrictive and the 2" pipe will just slip right into them.
 
Re: New plumbing help

No worries, we're normally faster but during high season we get a little swamped. No need to apologize, and we're happy to help! :)

The spigot is a good thing to use to drain some water off of the pool - say like when it rains a whole bunch and you need to reduce the level a bit. You can see a spigot on my setup just after the pump - a good spot. We just use fresh water from a hose to clean the cartridge.
 
Re: New plumbing help

Good info from both of you!!!!! Pictured below is:
Pentair 64 sq ft D.E. Filter
4 1 1/2- 2 inch jandys
Backwash pull- valve
my new equipment pad is 30 feet from the pool and is less than 8 inches above the pool water.

Question. Should I send these valves back and get the 2-21/2 inch valves?
Jim I’m thinking I only need three (not four)3-way valves and one diverter
Valve so the spa can have fresh water continuously even though it spills over into the pool and to do that I will just add a spa by-pass line to existing spa return line like u did
 

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Re: New plumbing help

I think you only need two 3-way valves (pool/spa suction and return) and one 2-way valve (spa overflow).

Not a huge deal to use the valves you have. I just like the bigger ones so you do not have to use a coupler to attach 2" pipe.

Any reason you chose the push/pull valve instead of a multi-port valve for the filter?
 

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Re: New plumbing help

The sticks in dirt represent new plumbing coming from pool to new equipment pad.
Using two 3 way valves and one 2 way valve
the 2x4 represents the heater, the Gatorade represents the filter and the brick represents the pump
any suggestions would be awesome. Thanks a lot!!!
 

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Re: New plumbing help

Well, not a good plan. Looking back I should’ve kept a 5 or 6 inch dirt gap between the new concrete pad and the concrete walkway so I could’ve just plumbed running parallel with the equipment
If I plumb lines as depicted with the sticks in the picture then I have to put the pump next to sticks(suction line) and the heater moves to where the brick is pictured. Basically, pump➡️Filter➡️Heater.
I should cut the concrete with a 6 inch gap bwtween the newly poured pad and the walkway
 
CRAZY for sure!!! LOL on the 3 trips to H.D.! That sounds about right for any of our projects. The last thing needed is usually small and only costs a small amount of money BUT you have to have it so..............back you go!

Kim:kim:
 

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