New Pentair superflo VST electrical wiring question

Orion7319

Well-known member
Jul 1, 2020
1,288
Rock Hill, South Carolina
Pool Size
19775
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
My old single speed pump developed a serious leek and needed to be replaced. We decided to go with the Pentair superflo VST. We also have a Hayward Hayward aqua rite 900 saltwater system. My question involves the electrical hook up. The installer simply hooked the pump up using the existing wiring that was coming out of an existing timer that is also turning the salt system on and off. He told me that pump had to have constant power and to just leave the timer in the on position all the time. This means that the flow switch for the salt system now turns on and off the salt system..... which I know is bad if that flow switch shots. So that explanation leads me to my electrical question. Obviously I want to have constant power going to the pump, but would like to have the timer still control the salt system. My plan is to simply tie in the pump to the line in side on the timer. I just want confirmation that the terminals line side on these timers are always 1 and 3 and the load side is always 2 and 4. Also other then making sure I have the ground wired right, it shouldn’t matter which color wire I hook up to the load in terminals does it? I have a timer that I’m pretty sure is just like this one.
32A163BF-6A4E-4D74-9E11-6BA24D938006.jpeg
 
7319,

Your plan works for me... Line side of the timer is 1 and 3 with the load side 2 and 4..

Connecting your pump to 1 and 3 will provide constant power to the pump.

Leaving your salt system connected to 2 and 4 means the salt system will be controlled by the timer.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
7319,

Your plan works for me... Line side of the timer is 1 and 3 with the load side 2 and 4..

Connecting your pump to 1 and 3 will provide constant power to the pump.

Leaving your salt system connected to 2 and 4 means the salt system will be controlled by the timer.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Awesome, thanks! And I don’t really have to concern myself with the color coding of the wires correct, just make sure I connect the ground wires correctly? I don’t typically mess around with 220v stuff.
 
Correct. Each wire carries half the voltage.
Thanks for the clarification! I was confident that was the case, but wanted to make sure. My only previous dealings with 220v stuff was for washer and dryer’s which can be 3 or 4 wires but always has a neutral. The 220v pool equipment apparently lacks the neutral. I’m not sure why some 220v stuff has a neutral and some doesn’t, but that questions not really relevant here I suppose.
 
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I’m not sure why some 220v stuff has a neutral and some doesn’t, but that questions not really relevant here I suppose.

Well, anything running on 240 does not need a neutral. But dryers and ranges are half 240/half 120V. In most dryers the motor and especially the clockmotor in the timer need 120V; in ranges, clocks and oven lamps are 120V. BOTH NEED GROUNDS, please.
 
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