New pebble plaster. Pool filling now. Order of operations?

[david_]

I didn't get much info from PB other than run the pump, keep the CH around 200, and keep the ph in check. Not sure what kind of start up I had.. they plastered yesterday and did an acid wash today and started filling.

Trying to create a plan.. here's what I'm thinking so far:

1. Fill
2. Add sequestrant.
3. Check PH and CH when full.
4. Get PH below 7.8 with MA. Retest often.
5. If CH is really low, add some deicer. Retest often.
6. On day 3, add chlorine and CYA to 30ppm.
7. Don't use heater for 2 weeks.
8. Don't use robot for 2 weeks.
9. Do brush, even though PB said not needed.

FWIW my fill water tested as follows:
8.2+ PH
0.5 FC
2 CC
25 CH
300 TA

 

[ajw22]

Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The CSI is not applicable to new plaster finishes under 30 days old. It is actually necessary, to achieve a smooth and dense surface, to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days. This is because the plaster (cement paste) surface contains about 20% calcium hydroxide, which is somewhat soluble in balanced and slightly positive CSI water and can be dissolved away. The plaster surface needs to be "carbonated" before the CSI should be lowered to the acceptable and balanced range. And that generally is achieved during the first month under balanced water

Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Why no heater use for first 30 days? With new plaster there is a lot of plaster dust in the water and the pH is usually very high. When you heat water the potential for scale formation in the heater increases significantly. The actual timeframe for waiting to use the heater has no real merit. As long as the plaster dust is under control and the pH is in range there is no reason not to use it. Your risk of rushing to use the heater is scale clogging up the heater coil.

Why no wheeled cleaner for first 30 days? Plaster is sufficiently hard once the pool is full of water. Pool cleaners can be installed and utilized after about two days if there is no plaster dust forming. The reason that tracks develop is usually from plaster dust being "packed down" by the pool cleaner wheels and then not removed by brushing. So it can look like an "indention" (and discolored) but it is not an indention. Brushing afterwards can help prevent the plaster dust from sticking on the plaster.

 

[david_]

Doing lots of reading and editing my plan accordingly. But managing to CSI is new to me. I'm alarmed at the amount of chemical to add given my fill water, and not sure what to do first.

i.e.
Gallon of acid to bring down PH below 7.8.
10 gallons of acid over time to lower TA too 120ish.
65lbs of calcium to bring up CH to 250ish.

 

[ajw22]

Lower pH in 0.4 increments. Add acid, wait 30 minutes, retest pH, repeat as necessary until pH is in the 7's.

With high H and TA you will be adding acid just about daily which will lower your TA. See how much your TA comes down with just managing pH for a week or so before forcing it down .

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

Yeah, you need lots of calcium.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

Your fill water is not very plaster friendly.

 

[david_]

I've added 6 quarts of acid and I'm going to add 10lbs of calcium. TA is still very high but I know it'll come down as I aerate and add acid.

Is it possible I overshot 200ppm CA by trying to get my levels closer to 100 with CaCl, and over time plaster depositing calcium into the water?

 

[ajw22]

Get your CH to at least 250-300 or the water will leach CH from the plaster and weaken it.

 

[david_]

Small update. Day 5. Using NPC instructions per PB on my Pebble.

Today I added 20ppm liquid CYA and have been maintaining FC since day 3. Will boost to 30ppm tomorrow.
I also have added about 25lbs calcium. I'm around 125 CH and moving up slowly.
TA has dropped through pH management to ~250. Will continue to monitor as I'm adding about 1/2 gal. acid per day.

This is keeping my CSI ~0.5, depending on pH fluctuations. I do see some calcium forming on spa spillover, but brushes off easily.

There has been very very little dust and the water is crystal clear. I'll be comfortable using the heater after 2 weeks, and maybe the robot after week 1.