New OB in Sacramento Ca

Still no pictures, I have been lazy in that regard. I have been working on the decking around the edge of the pool as plaster comes this Tuesday, equipment pad is setup and all of the equipment is installed, electrical isn't done but should be done this weekend? Not sure if this was by design or not but the Laminars are not even close to being at deck-level? I am going to have to cut the buckets down so the tops will sit level with the deck, have to get the decking installed then get measurements and cut the buckets then follow the directions for proper installation, then reinstall the decking (nothing like doing it 3 or 4 times to make sure its good). The process is wrapping up and the wife has been a stress case (kinda funny) and the kids are getting excited, the work will continue for a while even after plaster as we have to finish the deck/patio and then repair all the things that got broken or have been neglected for the past several months but very much looking forward to that. Getting my yard back into shape helps and now with the mister system I am hoping to drop the temperature by a few degrees on the really hot days :D I will try to get some pictures either later today or Sunday after a long weekend of laying pavers. Really looking forward to getting some plaster pictures. Oh one really big plus is that working like a madman for the past several weeks I have lost allot of weight, just trying to keep it off now is the new challenge.
 
not yet, I still haven't messed with my test kit, I figure I will work on deck all weekend then on Monday start playing with testing the water? I figure they will plaster on Tuesday then on Wednesday come out and acid-wash and buff the pool and put the hose-n-bottle in?
 
Here is THE start up card I have been told is one of the best ways to start up new plaster. BUT I was told the card leaves out the fact water should not be added until 6 hours after the last plaster what put on. Other than that follow the directions to the letter and your plaster will be better for it!

The water testing will need to happen before you get water in the pool so I can give you a shopping list.

Have you found good source of liquid chlorine? You will need to find it as you do not add salt for the first 30 days so you will not be able to use your SWG for 30 days. You will need to use liquid chlorine during that time.

Kim:kim:
 
Try your local pool stores. Some of them carry liquid chlorine (at 12%). You will have to put down a deposit on the jugs. There is also Walmart's "pool shock" during this time of year (at 10%). There is also bleach :shock: lol but make sure it is plain bleach. No pretty smells, splash less, or "enhancement". Make sure it is at least 6%. If the % is not listed then they are too embarrassed to list it (under 3%).

Kim:kim:
 
Hi Kim,

Thank you for the guide it is the same that the plaster company supplied so I am happy in that regard, however I have been browsing and am wondering if there is a sticky on how to use all the stuff that came in the TF-100 Test kit, I have all kinds of drip bottles and only see the easy directions to test for PH, chlorine, and Bromine... so far:
PH= 8.2
Chlorine= 1-2
Bromine= 1-2

I read the card that comes with the kit and will get the rest tomorrow.

shocking but that's all I have for now? That's outside faucet water.

Thank You!
Dustin
 

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This is kept in the box to the left on the home page. It is called "extended test kit directions" Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions

Here is a link to some videos. They can be found on the TF-100 test kit page: https://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

The test stuff in the little blue box..........don't bother with the FC/bromine (you don't use bromine) one. It is really only good to say "yep there is some chlorine in the pool" The pH part of it is what you want. The powder FC test is MUCH better! You can do the 10ml test to save on your regents.

Does this help?

Kim:kim:
 
They are all going to learn how to take care of this thing, I will handle the acid for now though! I had trouble with the CYA test, I was always still able to see the black dot? Calcium hardness I had 225ppm, and Alkalinity I had a TA of 90.

However... we found a dead spot in the plaster with a good size crack??? I am beginning to think I am cursed regarding building this pool? Plaster company is coming out tomorrow morning to take a look, I decreased the flow of the hose so it wont fill to the cracked/hollow area but am very curious as to what they have to say?
 
"dead spot"????............more words please!

CYA test=GLANCE only. Do not LOOK for the dot or you will find it. I would not bother doing this test until the pool is full and you have added enough CYA to get it to 30 and it has mixed through out the day or over night. CYA is not in tap water. It has to be added.
 
dead spot = delaminating plaster, plaster companies suggestion fill it then they will patch in October and just put a mosaic over the patch to hide it..... NO!

The plaster spot is on the baja shelf, my wife said she would talk with me about it and I said no way, we have spent a ton of money on this and do you want to step onto a slippery mosaic when you enter the pool? do you want to look at this mosaic every day and see the patch work? No! I want them to redo the entire baja shelf so the transition for the patch is on the baja shelf wall and I don't see it unless I am on the other side of the pool or under water swimming which at that point it isn't really noticeable? Its either that or chip out the plaster and redo the whole pool? I am pretty sure they are going to ask for payment too! Not until I have a signed agreement stating exactly what's going to happen.
 
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