New member pool planning in N. Atlanta - Construction Completed 7/2022

Christmas came early! Not only did all of the PVC for the plumbing arrive today, but all of my equipment also came on a pallet. Guess I don't have to worry about availability for anything. Everything matches the contract, but it looks like there's a 3rd pump; 2.7hp Variable Speed, 2.0hp Stealth, and a 1.0hp FloPro. The bubblers in the tanning ledge were a late addition, so I'm assuming that the 1hp pump is for the bubblers. Thoughts?
I went back and looked at your original list and graphic. The VS pump is your main filtration pump. The Stealth pump is for both the bubblers and water feature. Your cleaner is an electric robot so not sure what the FloPro pump is for. Best to ask now so you know how the plumbing will be set up. Have they provided you a plumbing diagram?
 
It looks like the CV Cartridge Filters range in size from 340 sq. ft. up to 580 sq. ft., so I'll be sure to confirm size when I get the part numbers. I'll also plan to clean a couple of times right around pollen season as well... Pollen is certainly one of the universal problems here in Georgia!

Anyone have comments/experience on the Polaris Alpha IQ+. It appears to be a pretty good model, and I was happy this PB didn't push a booster/suction based vac. In fact, they independently plumb for it, if you would ever want to add it, but it's capped in the pool and at the pad.
We had a pool put in last October and I read a bunch of the posts on here about the robotic cleaners. Leslie's (yes I did go in there a couple times early on to validate my water tests - please don't judge me 🙂) and they were pushing the Alpha IQ+. If you have $ to burn, it's probably swell. I went with the Warrior and it does just fine. If you go Warrior, I'd skip the SI model and go with the SE ... the controls are wonky and I'll never use that feature.

Charlie
 
I went back and looked at your original list and graphic. The VS pump is your main filtration pump. The Stealth pump is for both the bubblers and water feature. Your cleaner is an electric robot so not sure what the FloPro pump is for. Best to ask now so you know how the plumbing will be set up. Have they provided you a plumbing diagram?
No plumbing diagram yet, as they're just getting into the plumbing/rebar phase. I'll be sure to ask both about the pump and for a diagram. The Stealth pump was listed for "water features" but at the time, that was just the waterfall, since the bubblers were added to the tanning ledge just before signature. It didn't list a separate pump when they were added. The contract did indicate that the bubblers would be independently plumbed though. With 3 separate spill points on the waterfall and an approx 5-6' lift to the top, I'm thinking they just went with a dedicated pump. I'll post up when I have an answer.
 
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We had a pool put in last October and I read a bunch of the posts on here about the robotic cleaners. Leslie's (yes I did go in there a couple times early on to validate my water tests - please don't judge me 🙂) and they were pushing the Alpha IQ+. If you have $ to burn, it's probably swell. I went with the Warrior and it does just fine. If you go Warrior, I'd skip the SI model and go with the SE ... the controls are wonky and I'll never use that feature.

Charlie
My pool builder supplied the Alpha IQ+ as part of the contract. It arrived with the other equipment yesterday. I did a fair amount of research at the onset, and asked a lot of questions. They were willing to go with a different robot, but pushed for the Alpha IQ+ because they get the best price on it, and it has the best integration with the IAquaLink app that will be used for all of our other equipment. Their pricing ended up being better than even the Polaris days events, without having to do rebates/etc, so I was willing to bite the bullet.
 
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Big chain pool stores can be awesome with large purchases if the right sale / rebates are going on. If there are any problems it is super nice to go up the block for warranty issues. Here is your broken robot/pump/etc. Fix it or *you* deal with the manufacturer and shipping it.


They aren't inherently evil and also come in handy for small parts that you need today when an o-ring pinches and you don't want to leave the pool off until Amazon comes. You will gladly pay $3 more for a $10 part when that happens.

Lube and straight chemicals free of magic potions like bleach and MA are also usually good buys.

Steer far clear of their chemistry advice as you are a metric and not a valued customer. They'll drain your wallet fixing something that doesn't need fixing, or going about it improperly, and then sell you the cure for the problems they made.
 
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The PB was out yesterday afternoon to make sure the water table was good and clean up any minor mudslides/cave-ins from the rain. After a couple of dry days I'm still getting enough water to run the sump pump about once every 4 hours, so I'm glad they did the extra depth with gravel. Plumbing is going in today, and is supposed to be wrapped up by tomorrow. They said I'll get a diagram when it's all done. I will be sure to take a lot of pics on my own though, and get your thoughts. They were also able to confirm that the 1.0 hp FloPro pump is for the bubblers. With the height and multiple spillways for the waterfall, they said the extra pump was needed to ensure we don't get a drop in flow when everything is running. The bubblers will likely see far less usage overall, so hopefully it won't take too big a toll on electrical either.
 
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I'm sure they will (and I didn't revisit your build sheet), but make sure they are putting in a couple of hydrostatic valves in the shell, especially important since you already know you have ground water accumulation. Will only come into play when you need to empty the pool, like for a replaster.

All is looking great!
 
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They were playing around with placement in this pic. The pad is going to come out from the wall at my request, so that I have room to move around, and to pull the heater further from the door/window. It will basically sit at the edge of the gravel. No electrical has been run yet. The subpanel is for my stand alone hot tub.
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I'm sure you are on it, but make sure that heater exhaust vent is 4' away from that window and door. And if it is being inspected, I would call the inspector to make sure that he will pass it, before all the plumbing is done. Because it doesn't matter whether it meets the code exactly, if the AHJ will not sign off. Would suck to have to figure out a solution after all the plumbing is installed.

I would almost put the heater on the far right and scoot it down to the corner of the building.

--Jeff
 
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I'm sure you are on it, but make sure that heater exhaust vent is 4' away from that window and door. And if it is being inspected, I would call the inspector to make sure that he will pass it, before all the plumbing is done. Because it doesn't matter whether it meets the code exactly, if the AHJ will not sign off. Would suck to have to figure out a solution after all the plumbing is installed.

I would almost put the heater on the far right and scoot it down to the corner of the building.

--Jeff
I was also thinking of possibly going far right for the heater, as you'd only have the window to contend with. I just don't want the exhaust too close to our under decking. The Project Manager will be on site today for pressure test, and is going to have to sign off on everything before they finalize placement and finish plumbing at the pad. I plan to also do measurements before they finalize placement as well. I don't want to take any chances! The crew just pulled up now. It's going to be another busy day!
 
Here are some daily update pics. The rebar has been delivered, but I doubt they'll start until Monday. They will get through plumbing today though. We did end up going with the heater on the far right. The vent measures just over 5' from the window and is far enough out that venting into the underdecking won't be a problem. It also will leave me plenty of room in front of and behind the equipment. The total pad area will be about 8x10'. The trench from the pool to the equipment is right around 25' long and 3' deep.

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Yeah, plenty of room from your deck. And moving it away from the house maintains the clearance needed in front of the sub panel. At least it is pretty close. Supposed to have 36" of clear open space in front of any electrical panels.

--Jeff
 
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It looks like they got the check valve right between the heater and the SWG. Let me know if there is anything else I should be checking for? The quality of the work appears to be very good.

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See the channel lock pliers on the heater ? I suggest you buy them. I used a strap wrench for 5 (?) years and when i finally broke down and spent the $20 on the cartoonishly large pliers, i KICKED myself for not doing it day 1.

They even came in handy a few times non pool related. They are my threat to anything that is stuck. You gon make me go get the Tom and Jerry pliers ?
ARE YA ??? *comes loose* Thought so.
 
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See the channel lock pliers on the heater ? I suggest you buy them. I used a strap wrench for 5 (?) years and when i finally broke down and spent the $20 on the cartoonishly large pliers, i KICKED myself for not doing it day 1.

They even came in handy a few times non pool related. They are my theat to anything that is stuck. You gon make me go get the Tom and Jerry pliers ?
ARE YA ??? *comes loose* Thought so.
I have a pair of channel locks, but you're right that they're nowhere near that big. I'll have to treat myself to a pair!
 
I've got a slight leak where the pressure gauge threads into the filter. Pressure dropped overnight from 25 to 10 psi on this gauge with signs of water coming out/leaking. The pressure drop was the same on the gauge inside the pool for the corresponding pipe run. I'm guessing this will be easily fixed with some thread sealant/tape? Otherwise, pressure seems to be holding perfectly on the pipes on the 2 other gauges, even after a few days.
 

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